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Hi, can anyone post a link to a recording of a supercharged 2010/2012 engine sounding without any issues? Also, apart from the timing chain, what other factors can bring unsual noises to the engine?
Thanks
 

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Hi, can anyone post a link to a recording of a supercharged 2010/2012 engine sounding without any issues? Also, apart from the timing chain, what other factors can bring unsual noises to the engine?
Thanks
No need to post a vid, idle it shouldn't make any noise you can hear over the sound of the engine... At wide open throttle it should sound like a bad power steering pump on steroids. If it's chattering at idle, sounding like a bunch of marbles in the supercharger chances are the snout coupler is in need of replacement. Screeching at idle bad bearings, grinding at idle bad bearings and bad gears alignment. You know you'll have bad rotor alignment when it just cannibalizes itself, the pulley on it will seize and possibly cause damage to your engine if any tiny shards get past the intercoolers.
 

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You should just hear the noisy fuel injectors, which dont sound great on Direct Injection motors. Supercharger coupler is noisy most notably at shut-down (clacking sound like diesel) - so if you hear it clearly then, you know its the coupler. I had my coupler done and timing chain done, was significantly quieter.
 

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You should just hear the noisy fuel injectors, which dont sound great on Direct Injection motors. Supercharger coupler is noisy most notably at shut-down (clacking sound like diesel) - so if you hear it clearly then, you know its the coupler. I had my coupler done and timing chain done, was significantly quieter.
the coupler shouldn't make any noise at shut down fyi... it makes noise when it's lightly loaded at idle. It has 6 holes in it. 3 prongs from the snout fit into one side, 3 prongs from a gear seated in the middle section of the blower slide into the other 3 holes. Over time the bore on the 6 holes opens up allowing the prongs to move around making a marbles in the blower sound. If it makes any noise on shut down, it would be one click when they prongs seat as the pulley decelerates.
 

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the coupler shouldn't make any noise at shut down fyi... it makes noise when it's lightly loaded at idle. It has 6 holes in it. 3 prongs from the snout fit into one side, 3 prongs from a gear seated in the middle section of the blower slide into the other 3 holes. Over time the bore on the 6 holes opens up allowing the prongs to move around making a marbles in the blower sound. If it makes any noise on shut down, it would be one click when they prongs seat as the pulley decelerates.
Yes, this.. I was referring to a bad coupler, not a good one. Or if you want to be certain to eliminate the coupler noise - remove the blower belt and start /stop the motor quickly, see if the noise goes away.

It was definitely NOT just one click noise at shut down. it was quite noisy.
 

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Yes, this.. I was referring to a bad coupler, not a good one. Or if you want to be certain to eliminate the coupler noise - remove the blower belt and start /stop the motor quickly, see if the noise goes away.

It was definitely NOT just one click noise at shut down. it was quite noisy.
Yeah, you can also pull the belt off the blower and just try to turn the blowers pulley back and forth. If there is play and you can feel the pulley turn before you feel the rotors engage in either direction, the coupler is toast. I've never actually seen one catastrophically fail but the issue is when they have play, it puts additional shock on the bearings and seals within the blower causing them to prematurely fail.

My memory is hazy on whether or not you can remove the blowers snout while it's still on the rover but the repair is incredibly easy. 1.) remove the belt 2.) gently remove all the bolts around the snout 3.) gently use a small pry bar and pry the snout away from the middle section of the blower. there are groves all around the snout section of the blower to accomplish this little by little. Beware the blower is 3 sections, the snout, middle, and rotor casing... you do not want to separate the middle section from the rotor casing. If the middle sections seal breaks away from the rotor housing, you'll have to pull the whole thing away, clean all the surfaces, then refit. That middle section comes out with the rotors. You also DON'T want to contaminate the rotor shafts or needle bearings in the back of the rotors casing. the You'll either also wanted to have removed the oil plug and vacuumed out the snout oil... or just put a big towel down under the snout because once you separate it, the oil will pour out. It's not much but I prefer to vac it out, it's less messy. 4.) clean the mating surface of the snout and where it meets the middle section of the blower. 5.) remove the coupler, fit the new coupler 6.) copper gasket maker to seal the snout and middle section 7.) star pattern the bolts... they're 17 ftlbs and I'd use some blue locker on em. DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN, the threads will just strip right out. 7.) refill the snout with supercharger oil you can get at any GM dealer, or really mobil 1 5w30 works well to, is what I run in my race car and is fine.

I'd also source an upgraded coupler, black is stock, upgraded are generally green as pictured below.

Dscn1400.jpg

If the snout can't be removed with the blower fit to the car this repair just got a bit more complicated. You can still do it with it partially on the car but you'd need to dig in a bit, unbolt the lower intake and try to raise the whole blower up enough to perform the service. This will save you boatloads of time over removing the entire unit.
 

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My memory is hazy on whether or not you can remove the blowers snout while it's still on the rover but the repair is incredibly easy..
I am almost positive the S/C has to be removed to access all of the snout bolts
 

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I went ahead and took a video of my low mile 2011 Supercharged. This truck has only 28k miles on the odometer and engine is nice and healthy.
This is what the typical idle of the AJ133 5.0L S/C engine should sound like. Only real ticking noise is from the direct injection.
Video here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U5OZemHvesE
 

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I agree with the coupler being possible culprit. Mine ticks as well, and has sloppy coupler needs replacing. Rover mechanic I know said you'll know when it's the timing chain as "it will sound like a loud washing machine"
 

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I went ahead and took a video of my low mile 2011 Supercharged. This truck has only 28k miles on the odometer and engine is nice and healthy.
This is what the typical idle of the AJ133 5.0L S/C engine should sound like. Only real ticking noise is from the direct injection.
Video here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U5OZemHvesE
That was nice of you to make that vid! Nice ride :)
 

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That was nice of you to make that vid! Nice ride :)
I had seen this request on these forums several times, so I figured it was worth the 5min of effort to help the community :)
 

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I needed to hear this aswell. Thank you for the effort.
I have a 2011 RRSC with 109k miles and hear a ticking sound. It is also loud while climbing a steep road or accelerating hard and I'm worried about the timing chain guides. I will take a video soon to see what you guys think. I hope it is the supercharger coupler but it sounds really bad.
 

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Discussion Starter #14

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Hi, I recorded two videos with the sound of the engine. I still have some doubts regarding if there is any issue with the timing chain or the coupler.

https://youtu.be/3Vv5k8Rqw68
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3Vv5k8Rqw68&t=2s

Could you please share your views on this? from the inside of the cabin it also seems to noise to me
Thanks very much
I can't tell based on the audio quality but you can rule the blower out by popping the accessory belt off and starting it for a couple of seconds. Or just pop the belt off just the blower and hand turn it... if the pulley doesn't turn totally smooth and catches/has play the blower needs to be looked at.
 
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