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2002-2005 Range Rover MkIII / L322
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Discussion Starter #1
Ok so there are a million or more posts on here and many other forums about this subject. I'm writing this because after reading almost 3/4's of these post to no avail I thought I might be able to help someone out?
First off there's an obvious security issue here an I for one don't want to be responsible for a rise in the theft of Rangies because of this post, so all of the following is done at YOUR own risk!!
Secondly, after many days or more of being unable to gain access to your motor, you are by now probably fed up with moderators or senior members telling young whiper snappers like you to be a forum member for another ten years before they'll trust you enough to help you. I know I got fed up with dead end posts on this topic, so without any more ranting, here goes....
  1. Make sure you have a WORKING replacement lock, don't think you can get into your car and then skimp on replacement parts, it's NOT going to happen :naughty:
  2. You ARE going to need a new/sh replacement door handle
  3. You are going to need a few tools to do this and a GOOD torch, mediocre ones need not apply and you'll thank me later
  4. You will need some 'Brave' pills or possess a good set because the following steps are not for the faint of heart or clumsy all thumbs types :naughty:
  • Battery drill with a 30mm diameter hole saw and a SHORT center drill bit (VERY important because you're going to be drilling a hole directly behind the LIVE air bag 8-0=)
  • LONG flat head screwdriver, preferable a thin one
  • Hacksaw blade (tape up the blade at each end to allow for a center cutting section with tape at each end to prevent scratching the paintwork)
  • Long nose pliers
  • Long tie wrap (to capture the end of the inner latch door cable)
  • Masking tape, LOTS of masking tape (especially if point 4 applies to you)
  • VERY good torch with a narrow beam (you need to adjust the beam to see through a 30mm hole)
  • All other tools you feel appropriate or those mentioned in other posts required to remove the door card once door is open
  • PATIENCE and yet more PATIENCE. I can't stress this enough, be prepared to walk away and have a brew
Now for the plan:
First off, tape around the door handle, scuff plate and above and below the handle.
With GREAT care, ease the door handle open as far as possible and hacksaw through the back of the handle closest to where the key insert or thumb press section of the handle is. This will allow the handle to open much further so you can then cut through the front of the handle. This has to be done to allow full access to the center of the scuff plate behind because you're going to drill a hole through this shortly.

Using the measurements in the photo, mark out the center point for the hole, again with steady hands and not in any kind of a rush, drill the hole through the scuff plate as in the photo.

:idea: There is an EXPLOSIVE air bag almost directly behind this scuff plate so make sure that the center drill does not protrude more than is just necessary past the hole saw outer edge!

Once cut this will then allow you access to the rear of the lock and the handle release cables that need to be moved in order to carry out the next step.

If you have measured correctly the hole you have just made will now reveal the outer door release cable where it is mounted to the back of the handle. You can now remove this and with a little perseverance, pop the nipple out of the lever at the back of the now missing handle. Before doing this I attached a long tie wrap to the cable itself so that it was easy to retrieve, remember you can't yet open the door and you may need this cable to get the door open. Some posts mention a 'snapped' inner cable release so this is going to save your bacon and it's no use if its dropped inside a locked door!

By now you have a 30mm hole in the scuff plate which will need to be enlarged to enable better access to the 'magic' part that is going to let you open your door!
Easy tiger!!! There are metal parts of the handle that will make the hole saw jump and POSSIBLY ruin your door, so easy does it now. I cut a couple more holes into the soft plastic parts of the scuff plate. :idea: Use your NEW handle for guidance on where best to cut

So like me, you now have something like this, if not, read my top comment... YOUR own risk

Now don't go jumping the gun here, there's a couple more steps before you can open the door.

Take a good look at your new lock, I took off the plastic cover that other post recommend 'smashing' off with a screwdriver from the top of the door. No no no no no.... it just clips off from the back but don't break it because its going to go back on very soon. Once off you'll have a great view of you target area to lever the locking latch with a screwdriver through the now enlarged hole in the scuff plate.

The aim now is to shine your torch through the hole at the back of the lock, where the inner lever cable goes into the lock you will need to pop the small flap off to allow you to apply downward pressure to the area shown here.

If all goes well, you will hear a small clunk. This is the locking lever opening the lock to allow for the inner door latch to engage with the door release mechanism. without any help :naughty:, jump into the car and open the door from inside. You don't need any help because when done single handedly, YOU can claim the greatest victory and heroism of opening the long closed door.

At this point you will need that well deserved brew because you are only a fraction of the way through the job

This is where my help is over all but for to say, now, having undoubtedly read many post on 'How to remove the door card with the door OPEN' you can now proceed with the rest of the job.

My final words, WELL DONE you. It took me approximately 20 minutes to get the door open, no battery disconnection, no bent panels, no scratches, no damaged door card and no stress. All in all it cost me around £50 for the parts, I could've done it cheaper and NOT bought a replacement lock but then I'd probably be doing it all again next week. Before I fitted the replacement lock I did drown it with oil, tested it worked many times and then tested it again just to be sure. :idea: As a side note, the lock will not operate electrically until the door card electrics have been reconnected so don't think you've just done all that work in vain.
Good luck and remember, stay calm :thumb:
 

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2006-2009 Range Rover MkIII / L322
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16 Posts
Hi stormindes, I cant see the pictures you posted. The links dont seem to be working. Is it possible for you to re-post them please? I am trying to get to the rear driver side door that has been stuck for months. Thanks a bundle.
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover Classic
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1,413 Posts
there are 2 easier less intrusive less expensive proven ways to enter your super locked / dead battery l322 thru the rear.
 

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2006-2009 Range Rover MkIII / L322
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16 Posts
Hi
My rear driver side door has been super-locked since last winter. This post does not have working pictures so I am really hoping to find one that works. Which less intrusive ways are you suggesting? I have looked and looked. A link would be immensely appreciated. Thank you
 

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I think you will find 95 was confused at the topic of the thread. I believe he is referencing how to get into a super locked L322 or one with a dead battery. This topic is actually about dealing with one door with a failed latch.
 

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The easier way of opening a superlocked door is simply just unscrewing the top of the door panel and pull it back as much as possible without breaking it and you can unscrew the airbag then you have access to the door latch and there is a pin that you push that will release it I will get pictures next time I do one no drilling or cutting involved


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2006-2009 Range Rover MkIII / L322
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No way! So I can do this while the door is closed? I thought that you had to start from the bottom of the door to pull out the door panel on L322 2007 supercharged? When you get If you have a few minutes can you please give me a the sequence for my driver side rear door.

1) Open screw at the top.
2) Carefully pull the door panel back (which you say I can on a closed door)
3) Unscrew the air bag module - the square box. (do i unplug the battery?)
4) Push a pin. Where is it? On the actuator? Mechanical operation or electronic?

So very appreciative of this. I just ordered a new actuator and door handle.
 

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On a 2007 you don't need to worry about a airbag because there is no airbag in the door once you pull back the door panel you can barely Enough room to fit your hand in it and unlock the latch if you post a pic of your new latch I will point out what you need to push pull


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2006-2009 Range Rover MkIII / L322
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16 Posts
Hi, I followed your directions and got my hand behind the door panel. see my attached picture of the new actuator, where I pushed and pulled the the lever (index finger) and the lock (pinky). Both move but will not release the latch. All the cables are working, so is the locking mechanism. Super frustrated. Any suggestions would be great. Thanks
 

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2006-2009 Range Rover MkIII / L322
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also, this probably means that the latch is stuck. Do I need to destroy the actuator. Unlike the front doors, the actuator is way in the back vs being directly underneath the opening. Thoughts?
 
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