Suggestion On How To Bypass EAS Self Levelling Timer/Relay

Bj

Installed my relay tonight as per your suggestion with a couple of very minor differences. Appears to be working perfectly. I stopped and turned off the motor a number of times and each time none of that dreaded clicking from the solenoids as it started its inevitable slide down. I then shifted back and forth between Sport mode and also shifted into low ratio just to see if engaging the transfer case made any difference but still no problems. Will watch it over the next few days to see how it goes and report back. I suppose I'll have to remember that if I ever do a transmission fuse at any stage I'll also probably lose the EAS, but a very small price to pay and a very quick fix in any case. I wonder if plugging it into Testbook, Rovacom/Faultmate or Autologic will bring up or show anything but I don't think it will. All up it took me about 15 minutes and was very very simple to install.
Right at the moment I am pretty happy...... and so is my poor old compressor.

Regards Barney

Hi, BJ.

This is a very clean, professional. mod (Great idea!), and I did it last night in about half an hour, using your instructions and the RAVE references. It works fine but.....For some reason now when I start up again, no matter where I left the suspension height, the car immediately lowers to access level. I can't see how your mod could cause this, as basically all it does is introduce the standard relay into the original power supply to the delay timer. I have pulled the relay many times to check the suspension system overnight, but I don't recall this happening on start up after refitting it.
Unless I have a low reservoir when I switch off, or park over a rock, I don't see it being a major problem. I always lower the car to access when I park anyway, mainly to save the driving seat . But it is weird, don't you think?

Hi, BJ.
When I turn the key to position II, all of the height indicator lights come on as per normal and the height doesn't change. As soon as I start the engine, the car drops to access immediately with the indicator lights
showing descent to access and becoming steady at access once down. It rises normally if I manually select a change or as soon as I shift into gear. High speed drop and return are normal.
It does not matter how long the ignition is off. I just checked by raising the car up to normal height, switching off and taking the key out, starting the engine and...down to access straight away.

When I get a chance, I am going to change the wiring back to the way it was and see if I get the same effect by removing/refitting the timer. I really can't see how it could have anything to do with your mod. It is probably just be my RR. You know what they're like.

Mine is working fine since I put it in and is not doing what both Dennis and David have described. So as we all know exactly what each other has done I will run through my mod just in case even the slightest difference in installation is causing that behaviour ( even though I can't see why it would - but you never know).

1. I have used a 40amp rated relay (4 pin only standard relay)).
2. I have grabbed the yellow wire going in to the Transfer Box ECU (which actually is predominantly white and a yellow stripe) and run a feed from that wire to the new relay to energise its coil.
3. I have picked up my ground for the new relay coil by joining it in with the black wire from the timer/relay (terminal No 6 I think it was).
4. I have then removed the wire from the No 2 terminal of the Timer/Relay, run it to the Norm. Open terminals of the new relay and then straight back into the No.2 terminal on the Timer/Relay.

And that is it in a nutshell and I'm sure that is pretty much exactly what you both have done (although slightly different for you Dennis). The only difference I can see between Dennis and David's cars and mine is RHD as compared to LHD.

Another thing too was that when looking at the "Face View" of the Transfer Box ECU Connector in the ETM, it actually shows that there should be two white and yellow wires coming out of it from different terminal numbers but there was actually only one in my car. If there are two in your cars maybe one loses power at engine start, have you checked that you definitely have power when cranking?? Have you tried locking the suspension height before turning your cars off and seeing if that makes any difference when starting back up again? Otherwise I'm sorry guys I can't think why your cars are doing that and mine and Bj's are not.

Regards Barney

Re: Suggestion On How To Bypass EAS Self Levelling Timer/Relay

Just an update re this thread. My car worked perfectly with this modification for about three months and then for reasons unknown also started behaving the same as the others where it would drop straight down to access height once you started it. This continued for about two months and I just cancelled it manually whenever I started the car. Then, again for reasons unknown, it stopped doing it and was working perfectly again. This was the case right up to about two weeks ago when suddenly, while away on holiday, it started dropping to access again on start up?????? Very confusing.

Anyway yesterday I hooked up my PPC with EAS reset software so as to read and clear any possible faults. Funny thing was that with the key in position "1" I could not get any comms with the EAS ECU. This was definitely different to other times when I have used this software, always being able to communicate with the ECU with the key in position "1". Once I switched the key to position "2" I had comms with the ECU but no faults showing. Further to this every time I sent a request to do something (ie Read Faults, Clear faults, Calibrate etc) with the motor running, that would also trigger the car to drop down to access mode the same as if starting the car.

This got me thinking so I then restored the timer delay relay to its original position by bridging the two ends of the purple/red wire that I had cut when installing my relay. Turned the key to position "1" and had comms with the ECU. Sent a request to read faults of which there were none and then sent a clear faults request anyway. Then just waited and after about 20 to 30 seconds the car did its self adjustment thing levelling off to where it wanted to be and then about 20 seconds after that I heard the timer delay relay click off as it is supposed to do.

I turned the car off, waited for a few minutes to make sure that the timer delay relay had definitely dropped out and then removed the bridge on the purple/red wire effectively re-instating the modification. Turned the key to poition "1" and had comms with the ECU. Started the car and worked perfectly staying at standard ride height. Turned it off and on a few more times and still perfect. problem fixed. Sent a request to read and clear any fault again, of which there were none.

The upshot of it I suppose is that I'm wondering if when some people were completing this mod that if they cut into the purple/red wire while the EAS ECU was still active (even though the ignition was off) this may have left an unfinished command from the ECU still waiting to be completed and that every time the car was turned on this command would still be lurking there and for whatever reason??? would send it down to access height. Something along those lines anyway.

It is just a suggestion and as I have found this modification to be an excellent one I thought I would let you know as I know there were a few guys who ended up taking this mod back out because of this problem.

Regards Barney.

Re: Suggestion On How To Bypass EAS Self Levelling Timer/Relay

Thanks Barney:thumb:

I re connected the relay with the RR set in standard profile and it defaults to that seting on starup now.

It no longer is on the bumpstops in the morning, its a great modification IMO.

Thanks again for your good work,

Wayne