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Suggestion On How To Bypass EAS Self Levelling Timer/Relay

27804 Views 37 Replies 15 Participants Last post by  Jan
Hello all,

I don't know what you all think, but I believe the "Self Levelling" aspect of the EAS in my P38 after ignition switch off is actually a design flaw rather than an enhancement. Someone may be able to tell me what its exact function is but at the moment I'm not really sure. On the surface of it all it appears to me to do is to let out all the air from your system that the poor old compressor has worked hard to build up, only for the compressor to have to do it all again the next time you start your car. I believe that all it does is cut down the life of your compressor. I appreciate that some cars behave differently to others and for some this self levelling is not that big a problem. Anyway for those who may agree with me I am going to try the following to see if I can overcome it. If this has already been suggested by someone else previously, my apologies and just disregard.

I am going to pick up a feed on the "accessories" side of my ignition and run that down to under the seat right next to the EAS ECU. Then mount a small relay with a set of normally open terminals. Connect the "accessories" wire to the coil of the above relay with a return to ground. Then find the supply wire to ECU in the loom that goes to the Number 1 terminal in the ECU plug. Cut that wire near where it goes into the plug and terminate the two ends to the normally open terminals on the relay.

The hopeful result would be that the "Self Levelling" timer/relay would be deactivated as soon as you turn the ignition completely off therefore not allowing the delay/timer to do its self levelling thing straight after turning your car off or during the night when it self energises at its intervals and adjusts itself accordingly. Also hopefully it will not affect the EAS ECU as when you go to start your car again, as soon as you turn the key to the accessories position the coil will energise in the little relay you have installed which in turn closes the normally open terminals allowing supply to the EAS ECU once you turn the ignition to the "on" position, hopefully resulting in no faults coming up.

Anyway unless someone can tell me that this is a bad idea, or can see some obvious problems, I am going to give it a go. If anyone has done it before can you please let me know the result. As mentioned earlier if it has all been done before my apologies and disregard.

Regards Barney
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Installed my relay tonight as per your suggestion with a couple of very minor differences. Appears to be working perfectly. I stopped and turned off the motor a number of times and each time none of that dreaded clicking from the solenoids as it started its inevitable slide down. I then shifted back and forth between Sport mode and also shifted into low ratio just to see if engaging the transfer case made any difference but still no problems. Will watch it over the next few days to see how it goes and report back. I suppose I'll have to remember that if I ever do a transmission fuse at any stage I'll also probably lose the EAS, but a very small price to pay and a very quick fix in any case. I wonder if plugging it into Testbook, Rovacom/Faultmate or Autologic will bring up or show anything but I don't think it will. All up it took me about 15 minutes and was very very simple to install.
Right at the moment I am pretty happy...... and so is my poor old compressor.

Regards Barney
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Hi, BJ.

This is a very clean, professional. mod (Great idea!), and I did it last night in about half an hour, using your instructions and the RAVE references. It works fine but.....For some reason now when I start up again, no matter where I left the suspension height, the car immediately lowers to access level. I can't see how your mod could cause this, as basically all it does is introduce the standard relay into the original power supply to the delay timer. I have pulled the relay many times to check the suspension system overnight, but I don't recall this happening on start up after refitting it.
Unless I have a low reservoir when I switch off, or park over a rock, I don't see it being a major problem. I always lower the car to access when I park anyway, mainly to save the driving seat . But it is weird, don't you think?
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Hi David,

thanks! Strange behaviour, I agree... Does the access indicator lamp comes on? If not, does it lower immediately when power is given to the relays (when key is in pos. II), before engine is cranked? Then you probably hear clicking from the valveblock. Does it rise again without intervention when the engine is started?


I just put a jumper in, so that the power is switched, (pin 2 IIRC) works great except the same thing, every time it want's to go to access, no movement in position II, but when started it will drop, I have to stop it manually or drive off, then it will go back up. Put the relay back and doesn't do it..
Hi, BJ.
When I turn the key to position II, all of the height indicator lights come on as per normal and the height doesn't change. As soon as I start the engine, the car drops to access immediately with the indicator lights
showing descent to access and becoming steady at access once down. It rises normally if I manually select a change or as soon as I shift into gear. High speed drop and return are normal.
It does not matter how long the ignition is off. I just checked by raising the car up to normal height, switching off and taking the key out, starting the engine and...down to access straight away.

When I get a chance, I am going to change the wiring back to the way it was and see if I get the same effect by removing/refitting the timer. I really can't see how it could have anything to do with your mod. It is probably just be my RR. You know what they're like.
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Great idea and excellent thread guys! :D
I had been thinking about this mod myself, but never got round to figuring out all the details.
So this really is a great help for me, and I'll be sure to implement it when I install the manual extended profile selector.

Perhaps even worth putting in an article for the main site?


Mine is working fine since I put it in and is not doing what both Dennis and David have described. So as we all know exactly what each other has done I will run through my mod just in case even the slightest difference in installation is causing that behaviour ( even though I can't see why it would - but you never know).

1. I have used a 40amp rated relay (4 pin only standard relay)).
2. I have grabbed the yellow wire going in to the Transfer Box ECU (which actually is predominantly white and a yellow stripe) and run a feed from that wire to the new relay to energise its coil.
3. I have picked up my ground for the new relay coil by joining it in with the black wire from the timer/relay (terminal No 6 I think it was).
4. I have then removed the wire from the No 2 terminal of the Timer/Relay, run it to the Norm. Open terminals of the new relay and then straight back into the No.2 terminal on the Timer/Relay.

And that is it in a nutshell and I'm sure that is pretty much exactly what you both have done (although slightly different for you Dennis). The only difference I can see between Dennis and David's cars and mine is RHD as compared to LHD.

Another thing too was that when looking at the "Face View" of the Transfer Box ECU Connector in the ETM, it actually shows that there should be two white and yellow wires coming out of it from different terminal numbers but there was actually only one in my car. If there are two in your cars maybe one loses power at engine start, have you checked that you definitely have power when cranking?? Have you tried locking the suspension height before turning your cars off and seeing if that makes any difference when starting back up again? Otherwise I'm sorry guys I can't think why your cars are doing that and mine and Bj's are not.

Regards Barney
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I followed BJ's instructions to the letter, connecting into the terminals as per the RAVE schematics. The earth is connected to a seat/floor bolt and tested for continuity. This has to have something to do with the BECM or EAS system checks. Maybe when it finds the timer missing, it needs to go to access to restablish its starting parameters again.

Anyway, this is a great mod and very easy to restore back to original if it ever necessary. It certainly saves the compressor a lot of work.

Thanks BJ.
Re: Suggestion On How To Bypass EAS Self Levelling Timer/Relay

Just an update re this thread. My car worked perfectly with this modification for about three months and then for reasons unknown also started behaving the same as the others where it would drop straight down to access height once you started it. This continued for about two months and I just cancelled it manually whenever I started the car. Then, again for reasons unknown, it stopped doing it and was working perfectly again. This was the case right up to about two weeks ago when suddenly, while away on holiday, it started dropping to access again on start up?????? Very confusing.

Anyway yesterday I hooked up my PPC with EAS reset software so as to read and clear any possible faults. Funny thing was that with the key in position "1" I could not get any comms with the EAS ECU. This was definitely different to other times when I have used this software, always being able to communicate with the ECU with the key in position "1". Once I switched the key to position "2" I had comms with the ECU but no faults showing. Further to this every time I sent a request to do something (ie Read Faults, Clear faults, Calibrate etc) with the motor running, that would also trigger the car to drop down to access mode the same as if starting the car.

This got me thinking so I then restored the timer delay relay to its original position by bridging the two ends of the purple/red wire that I had cut when installing my relay. Turned the key to position "1" and had comms with the ECU. Sent a request to read faults of which there were none and then sent a clear faults request anyway. Then just waited and after about 20 to 30 seconds the car did its self adjustment thing levelling off to where it wanted to be and then about 20 seconds after that I heard the timer delay relay click off as it is supposed to do.

I turned the car off, waited for a few minutes to make sure that the timer delay relay had definitely dropped out and then removed the bridge on the purple/red wire effectively re-instating the modification. Turned the key to poition "1" and had comms with the ECU. Started the car and worked perfectly staying at standard ride height. Turned it off and on a few more times and still perfect. problem fixed. Sent a request to read and clear any fault again, of which there were none.

The upshot of it I suppose is that I'm wondering if when some people were completing this mod that if they cut into the purple/red wire while the EAS ECU was still active (even though the ignition was off) this may have left an unfinished command from the ECU still waiting to be completed and that every time the car was turned on this command would still be lurking there and for whatever reason??? would send it down to access height. Something along those lines anyway.

It is just a suggestion and as I have found this modification to be an excellent one I thought I would let you know as I know there were a few guys who ended up taking this mod back out because of this problem.

Regards Barney.
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Re: Suggestion On How To Bypass EAS Self Levelling Timer/Relay

Just done Barneys conversion and it seemed to work fine until just now except the Range Rover is going into high profile on startup and not dropping to access as the others were.

I think Barneys theory of a command being stored in the suspension ECU may be right, my RR was in high profile whilst I was doing the conversion, so I will re do it tonight with the rig set in standard height and see If the computer will start defaulting to that height on startup after I have re connected the relay.
Re: Suggestion On How To Bypass EAS Self Levelling Timer/Relay

Wayne I actually discovered that the mod will start to misfunction once your battery starts to get a bit tired. It started doing it more frequently in my car (still not that often in reality though) but then when the old battery finally died, it never did it again once the new battery was in. So I suggest for all those who had this problem it was more than likely because their battery was getting a bit long in the tooth. I actually don't have the car anymore as I finally sold it and bought a Volvo XC90 V8 which is a nice car.

Regards Barney
Re: Suggestion On How To Bypass EAS Self Levelling Timer/Relay

Thanks Barney:thumb:

I re connected the relay with the RR set in standard profile and it defaults to that seting on starup now.

It no longer is on the bumpstops in the morning, its a great modification IMO.

Thanks again for your good work,

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Re: Suggestion On How To Bypass EAS Self Levelling Timer/Relay

I may have this wrong but in Right hand drive cars isn't there a fuse under the passenger seat that can be pulled instead. When I had my P38 I was going to fit an on/off switch inline with the fuse. This would then disable the auto level function.

Re: Suggestion On How To Bypass EAS Self Levelling Timer/Relay

Not sure Gary. You could be right. I would have thought Dennis, Ron, the Toad, Malafax, LLT etc would have pounced on that if there was one under there and it was that simple a fix. Worth investigating though, but not by me. The other good thing about the mod is you really do find out very quickly (with 100% surety) if you get a leaking bag or some other leak in the system. I miss the Rangie. My XC90 V8 is good (and very quick) but not quite the same as the Range Rover for some reason.

Regards Barney
Doesn't the air suspension lock button do this? old thread i know :/ mine doesn't drop if i lock the suspension.
All that's needed, is swap 5 pin relay for 4 pin, then no self levelling till ignition powers up
Just to set the record straight on this topic resurrection:

- the EAS inhibit button on the dashboard DOES NOT disable self leveling. What it does is prevent the automatic switching between highway and standard height, depending on speed. It can also be used to hold access height at low speeds to crawl in garages etc with limited height.

- the EAS timer is a lot more than just a 5-pin relay. But if you replace it with a standard 4-pin relay (like the yellow ones), self leveling is disabled and EAS can only be active with the ignition on. Also note that without the EAS timer, you will not be able to connect diagnostic equipment to the EAS, so keep the timer in the car for when you might need it!

I've got a leaky valve block :/ i decided to mount a on/off flip switch in the cubby hole to disable the eas so my pump doesn't burn out..just wire it into the black wire underneath the timer.. next stop new o rings :lol:
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