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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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124 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Morning, I really need some advice/opinions please

I have a 1998 P38 standard on air and a lifted 1999 on a manual EAS system. The previous owner converted it to have a separate up/down switch for each wheel. It has worked perfectly for 2 years, very handy launching a boat, drop the front, raise the rear and the boat slides off trailer.

Have had my 1998 P38 for 7 years, I have rebuilt the valve block and the compressor and installed a manual bypass, so I think I know something, photos below

One morning the 1999 manual one refused to lift the left rear wheel, while driving it self-levelled, but won't rise or drop using the switch. This gave me a headache as I had no idea how the wiring worked. Then I fitted a spare valve block to see what happens, the wheel lifted and dropped, so not the wiring, must be valve block, the spare valve block leaked, so Without removing the valve block, I fitted new o-rings to left rear wheel solenoid valve on the original one

Then the fun started, let me number the switches, 1 and 2 are front left and right, 3 and 4 are rear left and right
1 UP right front and right back UP
2 UP nothing
3 UP nothing
4 Up front left up
4 and 3 together UP, all 4 wheels UP
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1998 P38 1.jpg
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1 and 2 up, front UP
1 and 2 DOWN, front DOWN
3 and 4 DOWN, nothing
If it sounds confusing then you know why I'm posting this request for help


If I switch the car off and lift it via the bypass and a compressor then the front left goes down after 10 minutes, without visible bubbles anywhere

Don't have time to rebuild the leaking valve block now, thinking of trying 1998 car's valve block and see
Here are both cars
 

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If one corner goes down after 10 minutes, there's a leak. If you can't see it externally it has to be inside the valve block so time for a rebuild.
 

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Registered
1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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124 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
If one corner goes down after 10 minutes, there's a leak. If you can't see it externally it has to be inside the valve block so time for a rebuild.
I took the perfect valve block out of the 1998 car and tried it in the 1999 one, exactly the same problem
I connected tyre valves to the 4 lines, while connected to the "working" valve block, I used an external compressor to pump up the left front wheel, the right rear wheel also goes up. If I let air out of the right rear then the front left stays up. Using that technique I managed to get the car level. Something is cross linking the front left and the right rear. I don't see the point of rebuilding a valve block when the same problem occurs on three different valve blocks and three different valve block driver units.
 
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