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Discussion Starter #1
Hey Guys,

I'm installing my 12" JL W7 subwoofer on Monday with my JL 1000.1 amp. I've done plenty of installations in other vehicles, but never a Range Rover. I figure I'll run 0 gauge wire form the battery to the trunk, through two caps, and into the 1000.1 amp.

As for getting the subwoofer signal, I assume I will need a Line Out Converter (LOC) correct? How is the factory sub connected? Can I tap directly off of the line level inputs to the factory sub or should I go through one of the rear speaker harnesses?

Lastly, what is the best way to disable the factory sub? Just unplug it?

Anything else I should know when doing this install?



Thanks!
 

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Don't know the car enough to advise on LOC/harness. But you do not need a cap let alone two. Unless you are specificially putting them in for bling value or maybe as a hugely expensive voltmeter, you are wasting money and interior space.

0ga is overkill, nothing wrong with that. Don't know about your local market but look into using 50mm2 welding cable instead. It's more flexible, better insulated and cheaper (in NZ anyway).

You're not running big power so look at using the factory power wiring. Someone here did it recently on a RR3 and tapped into a factory wire in the boot
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Gotcha, thanks for the advice. I bought the W7, 1000.1 amp, and the capacitors all together from a buddy of mine.

I'm going to tap the rear power line in the trunk, put in one cap, and then wire it into the amp.

So it should go --> Power in fusebox in trunk --> 4ga wire to Cap --> 4ga wire to amp correct? I've never done a system with a cap before so I want to make sure I'm installing it properly.


Thanks,

Mike
 

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Consider selling both your caps, they are absolutely worthless for performance. If you're looking for increased power source then look at something like a Kinetic HC600 which can be had for US$100. It's a very small and extremely powerful battery.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks for the input on the caps guys, I'll just scrap em.

A friend of mine told me that the 4 gauge wire that runs to the rear fusebox won't suffice as a power source for my 1000.1 amp... He said I need to run 0 gauge all the way to the trunk. I really don't think this is necessary, input?


Thanks,

Mike
 

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Discussion Starter #7
From what I've read you can run 22 feet of 4ga wire for 1000 watt output before you need to bump up a size. I might just run 0ga for the hell of it...

How much room is there in the door channels to run the wire? Any tips on where to go through the firewall and how to get to the trunk?



Thanks,

Mike
 

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No idea on wiring routes.

Over here I find 0ga to be pretty expensive. A much cheaper option I've found is 50mm2 welding cable which is better insulted and more flexible. Cheapest place I've found is welding supply shops (not general electrical wholesalers).
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I got everything setup but I can't get the Line Out Converter properly installed. The amp is done otherwise...

What wires should I tap to get the signal to the LOC? It has two channels - thought I only had to tap one pair of +/- - and I can't figure out what to tap into for the signal wire.

I tried doing it right to the posts on the sub, no go.
I tried tapping a couple twisted pairs on the amp harness, no go.

Can someone please tell me exactly which wires to tap into for the LOC? It would be GREATLY appreciated :)


Thanks,

Mike
 

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I used the wires that were running into the stock sub. There is two pairs of wires. They are redundant. as for a signal wire I wasnt able to find one. so I used a cool device I bought on ebay that taps into a speaker wire and will create a 12v signal output when it senses an audio signal. There is a link to it a few posts down on my thread about my sub install
 

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Hey i have 2007 range rover SC and i wanted to install sub and amp they are both alpine can anyone tell me what things I need to do the job
 
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