RangeRovers.net Forum banner

1 - 18 of 18 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
33 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Here's my sub install on my new to me 07 hse. I bought the custom box on ebay. I'm using a jl10w7 and a jl 500/1v2 amp along with an 8 farad cap. I ended up tapping into that power big power line that runs into the rear right hand side fuse box. When the interior lights are on I notice a little dimming but everything else appears to be solid. I placed the amp in the stock sub location. I had to remount the stock sub amp behind the new amp. My LR mechanic said I could have problems if I tried to remove the stock amp altogether. This setup really seemed to wake up the stereo. I have 2 12" jl w3's in my jeep and this single 10w7 is almost as loud and more importantly sounds way cleaner.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
407 Posts
you should get a screen to protect your sub from anything puncturing it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
468 Posts
Agree you'll probably need something protecting the sub. Otherwise looks very tidy for a diy job, I like how the amp is hidden away.

Ditch the capacitor though, they're totally worthless.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
407 Posts
rogan said:
Agree you'll probably need something protecting the sub. Otherwise looks very tidy for a diy job, I like how the amp is hidden away.

Ditch the capacitor though, they're totally worthless.
agree with the cap. i had a digital cap and somehow it reset stayed on? it drained the battery. You dont need it. I have a 12inch W6 and the !000 mono alpine amp and i dont notice dimming of lights........much. :shhh:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2 Posts
I have a 2005 Range Rover HSE and i want to install my MTX amp and subs. Is my situation back there, as far as wiring going,to be the same as yours?
Do i need a LOC or do i do what i have read for here:
viewtopic.php?f=3&t=30147&start=0

Specifically i need to know about wiring for the sound signal coming from the Factory head unit. I can handle the rest.


If you got answers help me out please.

Thanks,
Charlie
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2 Posts
I have a 2005 Range Rover HSE and i want to install my MTX amp and subs. Is my situation back there, as far as wiring going,to be the same as yours?
Do i need a LOC or do i do what i have read for here:
viewtopic.php?f=3&t=30147&start=0

Specifically i need to know about wiring for the sound signal coming from the Factory head unit. I can handle the rest.


If you got answers help me out please.

Thanks,
Charlie
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
17 Posts
I have the same question as Charlie...

What wires did you tap to get the audio signal to the amp? Did you use a Line Out Converter to convert speaker level line-in wire to RCA's and then connect that to the amp? If so, which wires did you tap for the LOC?


Thanks,

Mike
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
33 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
JawzROVER said:
I have the same question as Charlie...

What wires did you tap to get the audio signal to the amp? Did you use a Line Out Converter to convert speaker level line-in wire to RCA's and then connect that to the amp? If so, which wires did you tap for the LOC?


Thanks,

Mike
the jl audio amp basically has an LOC built into it. I used the speaker wires that led to the stock subwoofer. I mounted the stock amp behind the new one (as shown in the pictures). I then soldered this device...( http://www.crutchfield.com/p_136XDCLR2S ... ml?tp=2610 ) to the stock speaker wires for the sub and ran these rca's directly into the jl audio amp and selected "high level input" on the jl audio amp. Those rca's is what you are seeing in the photo. That amp also has signal sensing built into it (so the amp turns on when you put the key in) however that will only work with a full range signal. Since I am tapping into the existing sub wire that is not a full range signal and you will need a product like this in order to create a remote... ( http://cgi.ebay.com/PAC-TR-4-Amp-Remote ... 19baa5b58e ). most amps dont have this feature so you would have to use an external loc
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
33 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
Also I need to say, I am not a professional at this stuff. I dont know if this is the right way to do it but it seems to have worked with good results.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
17 Posts
Thanks for the advice!

Could you please post links to the URL's you provided, they got shortened and filled in with "..." so they don't work.


Thanks,

Mike
 
G

·
Guest
Joined
·
0 Posts
I love seeing people installing quality components! good stuff. I love my 12" w7, but its in a large ported box. Your install looks extremely clean, how does it sound? Was there enough air space for the w7?

also, as for protecting it, you should look at the way the JL box does it... they have a sealed box that has these bars that go across it in a wide "U" shape. It looks really good imo, and it would work perfect with your set up imo
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
33 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
JawzROVER said:
Thanks for the advice!

Could you please post links to the URL's you provided, they got shortened and filled in with "..." so they don't work.


Thanks,

Mike
sorry about that...

http://www.crutchfield.com/S-QoFfITFrtf ... ml?tp=2610

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vi ... 0518769697

there probably is a remote turn on wire somewhere but i probed a bunch of them and couldnt seem to find it so this little device has been working really good instead.
The system sounds really good. I cant believe how much bass I am getting out of just one 10. I was thinking about doing the entire system but the sub really fills in the sound so I'm just gonna leave it the way it is. Paying a little extra for top of the line components is the only way to go. I've had PPI amps in my jeep since 98 and they are amazing. You really get what you pay for and the internet has made it so you can get stuff for pretty close to wholesale.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
33 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
pimpn04coupe said:
I love seeing people installing quality components! good stuff. I love my 12" w7, but its in a large ported box. Your install looks extremely clean, how does it sound? Was there enough air space for the w7?

also, as for protecting it, you should look at the way the JL box does it... they have a sealed box that has these bars that go across it in a wide "U" shape. It looks really good imo, and it would work perfect with your set up imo

Thanks I'll look into getting one of those covers. I'm not sure of the volume of the box. i got it on ebay from somebody who said it was built for a 10w7 and the volume was dead on. I had to do a little grinding to get the box to slip into the storage space. I have noticed that the sub shuts off when played for a while. When I turned off logic 7 the sub does not turn off. I haven't checked but I think it might be the stock subwoofer amplifier that is shutting off. I guess I still have some tweaking to do
 

·
Registered
2006-2009 Range Rover MkIII / L322
Joined
·
21 Posts
mserlin,

How exactly did you mount your amplifier where the stock sub used to be? I too have an '07 HSE and I pretty much tried to emulate your installation, but haven't figured out a good way to mount anything in that space since it appears to have some thin carpet-like insulation on top of sheet metal.

Did you have to mount your amplifier to something, and then mount that piece to the car? Any help or suggestions from anyone would be greatly appreciated.

Also, I'm having trouble with my subwoofer making a popping/thumping noise upon turning on the car, and then after shutting it off. When I turn the key, I hear a big "thump-thump", real quick sounding, but then the system plays as normal. And then when I turn the car off and lock it, about 30 seconds after I lock it I hear big "thump-thump" again.

Here's my install info - 2007 HSE:

- Audio Control LC2i Line Input Converter (Signal from the factory subwoofer amp, its remote turn-on is wired to the rear fusebox 10mm nut, grounded by adding a bolt to one of the threads the factory subwoofer box used with a bolt)
- Rockford P200-2 Amplifier (Grounded by adding a bolt to one of those empty threads closer to the front of the car in the spare tire wheel well, powered by running the power to the rear fuse box 10mm nut)
- JL 10W3V3 Subwoofer
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
468 Posts
2 yr old thread. Might pay to private message the OP instead. Those thumps are the amp turning on and off. Redo the remote-on to the remote-on for the factory amp.
 

·
Registered
2006-2009 Range Rover MkIII / L322
Joined
·
21 Posts
When you say "Redo the remote-on to the remote-on for the factory amp" what do you mean? How should I have the remote turn on wired?

Currently, among the rest of the typical wiring, there is a wire running from the LC2i remote turn-on to the aftermarket amp's remote slot, and another wire from the LC2i's 12v+ to the rear fuse box nut, which is also where I have the aftermarket amp 12v+ power going. Should I change this?
 
1 - 18 of 18 Posts
Top