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Discussion Starter #1
So I was trying to return a trailer to U-Haul today and I couldn’t shift the truck out of park. I had to fiddle around for at least 5 minutes before being able to get out of the way.

I had a look around and it looks like it might be the button on the shifter, or perhaps the brake switch of which there are two, an older version that is more robust and desirable, and a newer one that is flimsy and not as desirable.

Does anyone have any input on this? It happens rarely, but when it does I’m stranded for however long it decides to strand me. I should add that the truck starts without issue, and when it finally decides to let me shift, it does so smoothly and away I go.

Thanks :)
 

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Most likely, it's the shift lock solenoid. There are quite a few writeups about the problem, so I suggest you have a look.

It is best that you resolve the problem right away by disabling the solenoid, as it hits you at the most inopportune time. In my case, I couldn't shift out of Park while lined up in a drive-in at an In-n-Out Burger joint.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Most likely, it's the shift lock solenoid. There are quite a few writeups about the problem, so I suggest you have a look.

It is best that you resolve the problem right away by disabling the solenoid, as it hits you at the most inopportune time. In my case, I couldn't shift out of Park while lined up in a drive-in at an In-n-Out Burger joint.
Right! Haha, that must have been infuriating ;)

I did read about that, ok will do. One post O read said that it would throw ABS codes disabled, is this true?
 

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Stuck in the queue for the drive in? I hear bad things happen if you get stuck there - definitely best avoided
 

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+1, remove it. You won't get any faults shown. As Dtoyne says, it's only US cars that have it anyway. The argument being that it prevents anyone (dogs, kids, etc) knocking it into gear when parked but you've still got to lift up the button on the shift knob anyway so it isn't needed.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Was just reading through that... looks like the console has to come off again... Wish I had done this when the truck was in pieces...
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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My was a broken clip (the thing you grab) on the shifter. I cannot shift out of PARK. Took the shifter handle apart and shift manually. I finally epxoy the clip back together. All good. The dealer want $400 for the shifter handle.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
The funny thing is that mine only seems to do it when the engine is nice and hot. This time was after towing another vehicle home. It was already being slow to respond during the return trip, and then finally fully failed to engage. It finally did, and hasn’t been an issue at all over the course of my small round town trips.

Someone was saying that the heat in the engine bad on whatever fuse or relay that powers it could be the problem, or the fusebox itself, which in my truck needs replacing.
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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250 Posts
If I were you, I would find a free weekend and just remove shift interlock solenoid even though you say it is working right now. Otherwise you'll end up like me, putting it off because it was still working and then getting stuck when you really needed it to work.

The funny thing is that mine only seems to do it when the engine is nice and hot. This time was after towing another vehicle home. It was already being slow to respond during the return trip, and then finally fully failed to engage. It finally did, and hasn’t been an issue at all over the course of my small round town trips.

Someone was saying that the heat in the engine bad on whatever fuse or relay that powers it could be the problem, or the fusebox itself, which in my truck needs replacing.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I definitely will! And a new fuse box. And wiring the safari 5000’s....

but for now I have to redo the deck for summer :)
 

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1999 P38 HSE 4.6 THOR
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In looking at those instructions provided by Richard G, I'd like to add that you needn't "beat the snot out of the pin", rather, just touch the head of the rivet with a suitably sized drill bit and it pops apart with no effort at all.
 

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Rather than disable it, just take the whole thing off and bin it. As said, it was only fitted to US market cars, none of the others have it.
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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It is an easy job, and can be done with a minimum of digging.
I think it took about an hour for me all up.
You do not need to take a hammer, or drill to anything, just gently prise up the cover, slip out the
solenoid, clip the wires and tape off.
Mine was giving issues as the brake switch portion that powers the it is going.
I get a notification that my LR brake light bulb is out about 1 in 200 brake presses.
Bulb is fine..... This certainly had to be one of the worst ideas ever, as it is redundant and unnecessary.
Just a prime example of the Nanny state in action. Yank it and chuck it!
It's not like P-38s need any special reason to strand you randomly, but being able to unlock, start, and then not drive?
ARGHHH!!!!
Cheers!
 

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2002 P38 HSE 4.6
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You do not need to take a hammer, or drill to anything, just gently prise up the cover, slip out the
solenoid, clip the wires and tape off.
can the top shifter cover be pried up without removing anything else?
or will the panel with the window rocker buttons need to be removed first before popping out the shift cover?

THX
 

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Open the cubby box, remove the two screws that hold the window switchpack in place, lift that up and you'll see the screw that holds the gearshift surround, remove that, lift up at the back and pull towards the back of the car to free it from under the HEVAC.
 
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