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Discussion Starter #1
Good morning folks:
Two days ago I heard a weird noise coming from the engine, as I continue driving it came back and go, if I accelerated it will get louder, the end result was that the car overheated, pulled over immediately when the gauge went up and realized the broken serpentine belt.

Yesterday I installed both belts, inner and serpentine belt. Started the car and the noise came back up, it is worthy to note that I did check all the pulleys related with this belt and all are fine not frozen, PS has fluid, the engine oil level is fine and the alternator runs freely. What this noise is it is puzzling and how is the related to the broken serpentine belt is also puzzling.

Any ideas or thoughts before I go crazy spending $$$ and throwing it on guessing parts...
Sincerely
Lou
 

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You need to check ALL points of contact for both belts, not just the one that broke. That is tensioners, idlers and any ancillary. When the one belt let go a piece of it may have lodged in an idler bearing or other item on the second belt.
 

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2002-2005 Range Rover MkIII / L322
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My guess is one of the belt tensioner assemblies. Notorious for squeaks. Recently developed terrible noise following reseal of topside and timing covers. Idler bearing on the primary belt tensioner assembly seamed to be the culprit. Not the first time for tensioner issues on this truck. Try using a long screwdriver to you ear or a mechanic's stethoscope to narrow it down.

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Discussion Starter #5
I will recheck the pulleys again but this noise is intermittent will be not duplicate all the the time . When I originally check them they were freespooling fine no noise. Only when the belt was reinstalled.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
My guess is one of the belt tensioner assemblies. Notorious for squeaks. Recently developed terrible noise following reseal of topside and timing covers. Idler bearing on the primary belt tensioner assembly seamed to be the culprit. Not the first time for tensioner issues on this truck. Try using a long screwdriver to you ear or a mechanic's stethoscope to narrow it down.

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk
Will do tks
 

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Discussion Starter #7
My guess is one of the belt tensioner assemblies. Notorious for squeaks. Recently developed terrible noise following reseal of topside and timing covers. Idler bearing on the primary belt tensioner assembly seamed to be the culprit. Not the first time for tensioner issues on this truck. Try using a long screwdriver to you ear or a mechanic's stethoscope to narrow it down.

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk
Will do tks
The Primary and secondary both pulleys and tensioner were changed, however, can't test it until I get a hose that connects the block with the heater hose that blew when the car overheated, what a female dog was it to get to it!!!
 

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Perhaps check that the fan shroud is properly secured. I noticed on mine that the oil cooler manifold is not fully clipped into the fan shroud and may have contributed to a small leak I have. The plastic seems to deform/move/shrink after many years of service. As a small point make sure that the small t stat hoses are properly clipped into their support points on the shroud as one of ours was not done after the rad was changed by the po and the harmonic balancer had just about eaten thru the hose.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
UPDATE, both 1ary and 2dary pulleys were changed, whining noise still comes up sporadically when I start the truck, it comes from the PS pump, so the PS pump will be changed... the beat goes on!!! I guess it is expected after 151633 miles.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Perhaps check that the fan shroud is properly secured. I noticed on mine that the oil cooler manifold is not fully clipped into the fan shroud and may have contributed to a small leak I have. The plastic seems to deform/move/shrink after many years of service. As a small point make sure that the small t stat hoses are properly clipped into their support points on the shroud as one of ours was not done after the rad was changed by the po and the harmonic balancer had just about eaten thru the hose.
At this point the fan is off the car as well as the shroud for noise testing, it did the noise once and has not been able to replicate it so I know the fan is not the problem. I don't want to install the fan (PIA) until I can pin point the source of the noise.
 

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The only other oddball thing would be a failing harmonic balancer. Our old trooper would squeal on start up and it was the pulley actually turning at a different speed then the mounting part of the assembly. (not all the time) Not sure if your clutch fan could be going as an aftermarket one I had replaced did weird things and then seized solid so lots of fan noise at low rpm. Seemed like the internal seal failed and let out some of the gel inside it. It showed like some fluid had been sprayed around the engine bay.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Ok this thing is driving us bunkers, PS pump installed, the purging of the pump is close to impossible, I have one option from a mechanic to prime the pump with fluid before installing it, the other option is to loosen up a bit the return hose for about 3 secs and then start the purging of the air in the system by turning the steering wheel side to side. Anyone any thoughts on these???
 

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Standard procedure for most power steering systems is to turn the wheel lock to lock a few times. As we have no idea what year your L322 is there's no way for someone to reference the shop manual.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Standard procedure for most power steering systems is to turn the wheel lock to lock a few times. As we have no idea what year your L322 is there's no way for someone to reference the shop manual.
2004 RR HSE, I have the above on and off jack stands and it is almost impossible to turn lock to lock.
 

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Shouldn't be almost impossible to turn if on jack stands.. sounds like a bad new pump. I can turn my wheels relatively easily when the engine is even off.

But

Try and bleed air out of the system as much as possible.

Remember, only use either Texaco Cold Climate PAS fluid, Land Rover PAS fluid, or widely available Pentosin CHF-11s in the 02-05 BMW systems. Standard ATF/PAS fluid will bubble up and make the process difficult for both turning, and bleeding.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Shouldn't be almost impossible to turn if on jack stands.. sounds like a bad new pump. I can turn my wheels relatively easily when the engine is even off.

But

Try and bleed air out of the system as much as possible.

Remember, only use either Texaco Cold Climate PAS fluid, Land Rover PAS fluid, or widely available Pentosin CHF-11s in the 02-05 BMW systems. Standard ATF/PAS fluid will bubble up and make the process difficult for both turning, and bleeding.
OUCH bad new pump!!!!
 

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Discussion Starter #18
To add salt to injury, now the alternator is sticking and sporadically freezing up the alt light comes on, so I guess is indicative that it should also be changed :???: at this juncture it is very frustrating to deal with. I guess is the price of a RR... Will do what has to done!
 

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Discussion Starter #20
OUCH bad new pump!!!!
Ok update, huge boo boo my buddy who was helping me inadvertly left the power steering pump nipple stopper on(it was black and difficult to see ) placed the hose over it and there was no circulation of PS fluid.

Took the reservoir apart checked the hoses to find out the stopper was inside occluding the hose . Plug removed PS pump works like a charm!!!

Tested the alternator and it is not charging after checking with a meter, removed the alternator and ordered a new one, will install the new one soon. Feel better after forced to do a lot of preventive maintenance.
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