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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Discussion Starter #1
Problem solved

I installed a button underneath the seat to kill the power to the EAS. I wired into the ground wire that runs to the relay, the result is that the poor compressor gets to have some relief after 12 years of duty, no more lowering my truck overnight or reducing ground clearance when inconvenient.
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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i just unplug the relay when the vehicle is parked but i am planing on wiring in a second relay that controls the power going in to the EAS relay
 

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JACK'S GRANDAD
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9,248 Posts
This was covered a few years ago, where some folks installed switches, and others like myself wired in another relay that cut power when the rig shut off.
Turned out though, that there were some members that had adverse affects after doing it. Raising all the way up when starting the rig was one issue IIRC.

Martin
 

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WHy not jsut rebuild the compressor? All you are doing is postponing the inevitable. Rebuild it before it completely fails and you'll be good for another 10 years.
 

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Hi , I too want to do this as my EAS is in good condition but I hate when you shut the door or leave it over night it drops down. Can you help me identify the relay so I can cut a switch into the wire. Another suggested that since the EAS is always active you can source the power from the accessory side of the fuse box so when the key is off it cuts the power to the EAS so it cant wake up at night and drop the car. Any help would be great as it is really annoying. Cheers
 

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Premium Member
1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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568 Posts
Hey guys, please forgive me if I am being stupid but if all is well shouldn,t it stay up overnight? Mine was going down regularly but air leaks repaired and valve block rebuild has seen mine stay at normal all night every night.
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Struggling to understand why you guys would go to the trouble of disabling the EAS when following steps posted in this forum you'd be able to fix the fault rather than cobbling together some bodged job.


Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App
 

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Way too many people are penny wise/pound foolish with their rigs. Now I have to agree that the auto relay system for cutting power to the EAS with the ignition off is pretty brilliant. However using it to postpone proper maintenance on the system is just mind boggling.
 

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JACK'S GRANDAD
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9,248 Posts
I did it with the relay to stop it self levelling overnight etc, and to make the thing shut off when I shut the vehicle off, not when it wanted to shut off.
It helps a lot in diagnosing a hard to find leak etc too, taking all the electronics out of the equation.
In wouldn't call what I did a bodge, as it was wired in correctly with a relay, that did everything itself with ignition off.
It's folks like me that "bodge" stuff up, so others know whether it works or not before going to the trouble themselves. This particular modification made my rig rise all the way up when power was reapplied to the relay.

Martin
 

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I did it with the relay to stop it self levelling overnight etc, and to make the thing shut off when I shut the vehicle off, not when it wanted to shut off.
It helps a lot in diagnosing a hard to find leak etc too, taking all the electronics out of the equation.
In wouldn't call what I did a bodge, as it was wired in correctly with a relay, that did everything itself with ignition off.
It's folks like me that "bodge" stuff up, so others know whether it works or not before going to the trouble themselves. This particular modification made my rig rise all the way up when power was reapplied to the relay.

Martin
Do you mind giving some details as to how the relay is added?
 

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I believe you will find it has already been written up in previous postings.
 

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Premium Member
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Do you mind giving some details as to how the relay is added?
The EAS timer relay has a constant 12V power supply, the thick purple-red wire. If you replace this with a switched power supply, the EAS will only be active with the ignition on, so no self leveling when left overnight or for a couple of weeks. Or when repeatedly opening and closing doors when loading/unloading. The self leveling does have its uses, but as it can only let air put, you can only end up with a car that's lower then when you left it. Not ideal, and exagerated when parking on uneven terrain, like when camping.
I did this rewire on several cars, works great. Only problem is the EAS seems to forget what height setting it was left in. So on start up it will sometimes go to a different height. Mine seems to 'learn' after several cycles, like when offroading in the weekend it will raise to offroad the rest of the week, unless you dial in the correct setting after starting.
On a car with manual transmission, the rewire is very easy, as you have a switched 12V supply ready under the seat for the autobox ECU. On an automatic, you can add a relay in the purple-red wire, triggered by the thin white wire going to the timer relay, or even use that white wire for the complete power supply. In the last case you would want to upgrade the fuse (24) from 5A to 10A and remember that it also powers the ABS ECU, so you are in effect linking 2 rather important features to a common failure point.

Filip
 

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The EAS timer relay has a constant 12V power supply, the thick purple-red wire. If you replace this with a switched power supply, the EAS will only be active with the ignition on, so no self leveling when left overnight or for a couple of weeks. Or when repeatedly opening and closing doors when loading/unloading. The self leveling does have its uses, but as it can only let air put, you can only end up with a car that's lower then when you left it. Not ideal, and exagerated when parking on uneven terrain, like when camping.
I did this rewire on several cars, works great. Only problem is the EAS seems to forget what height setting it was left in. So on start up it will sometimes go to a different height. Mine seems to 'learn' after several cycles, like when offroading in the weekend it will raise to offroad the rest of the week, unless you dial in the correct setting after starting.
On a car with manual transmission, the rewire is very easy, as you have a switched 12V supply ready under the seat for the autobox ECU. On an automatic, you can add a relay in the purple-red wire, triggered by the thin white wire going to the timer relay, or even use that white wire for the complete power supply. In the last case you would want to upgrade the fuse (24) from 5A to 10A and remember that it also powers the ABS ECU, so you are in effect linking 2 rather important features to a common failure point.

Filip
Appreciate the tips. I certainly understand in theory. Just need to examine closely each connection to the the new relay.
 
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