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1970-1995 Range Rover Classic
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Discussion Starter #1
So in cleaning up my newly acquired 1991 RRC I discovered the subwoofer foams are shot... Ideally I would like a plug and play option that I could drop in and use the original grill, but the only ones I have found are $15 speakers that I wouldn't trust, or speakers over $300 that I can't afford. Kicker makes a 6 3/4" inch sub (I believe original is 6 1/2") that I am thinking of going with:

https://www.crutchfield.com/p_206CWRT672/Kicker-CompRT-43CWRT672.html

Does anyone have any other suggestions? Does anyone know the power output of the factory amp and if the Kicker is a good replacement candidate?

Thanks in advance for any input.
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover Classic
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if using factory amp, the speaker has to be a dual voice coil and I believe 8 Ohm impedance. I may be wrong on the last data but can be found on the back of the speaker.
 

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1970-1995 Range Rover Classic
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41 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
So I checked the speaker and it is a 4 ohm speaker that appears to be dual coil - does anyone know what the specs on the amplifier are? I really don't want to pull it out and all I can see is the part number RTC7620 which I can't find any information on... starting to think I might try a cheapy speeaker and see what happens...
 

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1970-1995 Range Rover Classic
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88 Posts
Curious to see what you found. I've ordered 2 different subs and neither fit in the original enclosure. I have a 95 SWB and the factory sub was a 7" DVC with 4 Ohm per coil.
 

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1970-1995 Range Rover Classic
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44 Posts
I got mine from John at http://www.gb4x4radios.com/usa/
He's great to work with, and he has a drop in replacement driver that thumps waaaaayyyyyy better than the factory driver, all while using the factory amp. I would HIGHLY recommend taking this route, verses trying to scab one in that isn't a oem fit.
 

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1970-1995 Range Rover Classic
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41 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
So this project has been stretching out way longer than I wanted - my own fault. I ordered a cheapy audiopipe DVC 4ohm speaker only to discover that my crossover is also fried. I decided the easiest (ha) thing to do at this point would be just to replace the rear amp with one that has a built in crossover... I bought a cheap compact Pioneer Unit (GM-D1004) but now I think I need a single voice coil subwoofer if I want to bridge two of the four channels... oh well.

The thing that I was really hoping I could do is find a bypass harness for the stock amp (which appears to be a pioneer gm-42A) but I cannot find anything which has a matching 11 pin pattern - people have told me it's the same as a VW but I cannot find one that has 11 pins with the pins on the upper row offset from the lower row ... In the end I may just have to cut and splice, but I was hoping not to...

IMG_1578.JPG
 

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1970-1995 Range Rover Classic
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41 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
Just thought I would update this thread - I got busy with with other things and put this on the back burner for quite a while. Yesterday I bit the bullet and decided to install the pioneer amp and new woofer... After scouring the internet and having no luck with the plug, I cut off the old female connection and decided to just hard wire it. I dry fitted everything and it seemed to be working, so then I carefully went back and soldered and shrink wrapped all the wires... Started the car and turned the stereo on and got a loud on pop followed by alternator whine over the music coming from the head unit... tried a couple of times and sometimes the alternator whine was quite loud, other times only noticeable if I turned the volume way down... always had the loud pop coming on.

For power and ground to the new amp I used the feeds for the CD player which I had removed, as these are heavier gauge wire than to the amp harness - also the power is a constant on, while the power on the harness is ignition switched. I tried a different ground directly to the chassis and got the same results...

The amp manual says using the speaker level inputs that the amp should turn on automatically, but this function did not seem to work, so I have the remote wire from the stock amp hooked up.

Frustrating, but I'm starting to think this amp is not going to work in this application (Pioneer GM-D1004)... really starting to wonder if my efforts to preserve the original head unit are worth it, or if I should just replace the whole lot....

Any suggestions welcomed...
 

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Check the resistor at the coil
 
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