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2010-2012 Range Rover MkIII / L322
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Discussion Starter #1
Spent a lot of time searching through forums and youtube video's. Haven't found anything specific for 2012 Supercharged Rovers due to its different caliper design for the front wheels.

I have started to get a steering vibration when I brake above speeds of 50-60MPH. I do not get any below those speeds. The higher the speed, the greater the vibration. I have visually checked the rotors and don't see and cracks or burn spots. The vibration seems to be coming from front but its hard to say. Drive is smooth and no vibrations when I drive normally(without braking). No brake light or dash warnings. I have read some solutions online that may or may not apply to mine:

- Wheel alignment and rotation (people talking about finding water inside tires??). --- Only happens while braking so don't think this is the issue.
- Rotor issue? --- Could be but I visually looked and it seems fine. I can look closely again but not sure what to look for.
- Brake pads replace --- I don't have the brake light warning on so don't think this is the issue unless there is uneven wear
- Cliper piston stuck --- Could this be a possibility with the Supercharged with its front caliper design?

Was thinking of lifting it up tonight and taking the wheels out and inspecting the brakes. Not sure if I would find anything or what to look for.

Any thoughts?
 

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2002-2005 Range Rover MkIII / L322
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Before you go too crazy, make sure the front wheels are balanced. My second guess would be warped rotors, and you may not be able to see this with a naked eye, and would need to use micrometer to see if there's a warpage on the surface of the rotor, or have the shop do it for you.
 

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1 Wheel alignment and rotation (people talking about finding water inside tires??). --- Only happens while braking so don't think this is the issue.
2 Rotor issue? --- Could be but I visually looked and it seems fine. I can look closely again but not sure what to look for.
3 Brake pads replace --- I don't have the brake light warning on so don't think this is the issue unless there is uneven wear
4 Cliper piston stuck --- Could this be a possibility with the Supercharged with its front caliper design?
Any thoughts?
1.) possibly, get an alignment and balance after brake work
2.) how old are the brakes? fit new pads and rotors (do not just put new pads on)
3.) anything is possible
4.) yes I've had that happen to mine but once you pull the calipers off + rotors it'll be abundantly clear. Is the rotor wear even, do all the pistons compress? Also check the condition of the hoses. there are 4 pistons in that setup, once I remove a pad I slide a piece of metal to cover both pistons on one side, compress with a tool, repeat on other side.

if I had to guess you've got tired rotors and they're out of balance, just buy new ones. Also there is no such thing as a warped rotor, only ones with uneven wear.

brakes at that speed usually means rotors are uneven/pads are tired. If a piston was sticking, you'd probably smell that... Next time you go for a drive just feel all the wheels near the lugs... if one is hotter than the others, it's the caliper is probably in need of rebuild.
 

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2010-2012 Range Rover MkIII / L322
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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks. I’ll take a look at the caliper, pistons and brake pads for uneven wear over the weekend. Any thoughts on how to check the rotors or is it best to take it to a brake shop to check for rotor wear?
 

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2013-2015 Range Rover MkIII / L322
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your disks may need cleaning, bring car to ~100mph apply brakes slowly with increasing pressure and bring speed to 25-30 mph. repeat same procedure 4-5 times. Urban driving makes brake disks accumulate pads material and that can lead to the symptoms you described.
:thumb:
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Opened up the front calipers and found that the brake pad wear is even on both sides of the rotor (on both front wheels). That tells me that the pistons and brake pads are fine. Not really sure of how to check the rotors.. Any ideas / tools ?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks. I will try this "Urban" rotor cleanup method as well.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Update for everyone.

Replaced the front brake pads and rotors. Used this guys bolt technique that turned out to be a much better method than banging at the rotor. Worked like a charm.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pMuHKDI00rw

Replaced the rotors and brake pads. No more vibrations while braking. Time to finally get on the road and burn some rubber.

Thank you all for your inputs.
 

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random question - You know Casey?

He was talking about one of his friends black 2012s vibrating when braking
 

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Discussion Starter #10
No I don't. I'm sorry. I'm over in Michigan across the lake from Chicago. :)
 

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He goes over to Detroit pretty often, oh well.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
 

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Update for everyone.

Replaced the front brake pads and rotors. Used this guys bolt technique that turned out to be a much better method than banging at the rotor. Worked like a charm.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pMuHKDI00rw

Replaced the rotors and brake pads. No more vibrations while braking. Time to finally get on the road and burn some rubber.

Thank you all for your inputs.
I watch that vid and found it a little hilarious... He's having issues removing the rotor because he's banging the hat with a rubber mallet. His little press was a cute work around to not having proper tools. A 5 pound sledge hammer 99% of the time have the rotor off inside 10 well placed smacks (just protect/don't hit the threads). They only time I've been unable to remove a rotor with a sledge hammer was on my friends 2010 mazda 3 150,000 miles rotors never changed. Hit it probably 20 times before switching to an air hammer which got it off in about 30 seconds (tho had I kept hitting it with a sledge it would have eventually come off). All that's holding it on there is rust, repeated concussive wacks will have it broken up and off in no time. Some PB blast shot past the threads or into the retaining port also helps if it's horribly seized on. Also @ refit coat the mating surfaces with anti-seize, the rotor, studs and wheel. None of that stuff will ever give you a problem again when it comes time to remove.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Thanks for the inputs Brad!! hitting the hat with a hammer worked for me on the driver but the passenger just did not want to come out. I tried Deep creep for 2 days and then finally found this video that worked in under a minute. You are correct, like the dude in the video, i did not have the proper sized hammer as well. Had to do with what I had in my tiny garage. Might be a good thought to stock up when it comes times to replace on the wife's rover :)
 

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Thanks for the inputs Brad!! hitting the hat with a hammer worked for me on the driver but the passenger just did not want to come out. I tried Deep creep for 2 days and then finally found this video that worked in under a minute. You are correct, like the dude in the video, i did not have the proper sized hammer as well. Had to do with what I had in my tiny garage. Might be a good thought to stock up when it comes times to replace on the wife's rover :)
a 5lbs sledge is an essential tool when working on the range rover if you don't have air tools :) The only reason I don't like that makeshift press idea beyond the extra time it probably took you... if you're using robust enough hardware you can actually bend the caliper bracket doing that. Might be tough on the RR supercharged robust caliper bracket, but a normal car they'll def bend quickly with enough force.
 
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