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2010-2012 Range Rover Sport
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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys, did anyone replaced the steering shaft u-joint? Is it possible to do without taking body off chassis? Steering wheel is getting really stiff to turn. I've tried spraying it with wd40 but since there is no line of site, I am not sure that stream goes where it needs to. I have replaced the fluid by pumping it out of reservior a several times over several days, and it is clean and clear, pump makes no noise... When cold in the morning, its fine but as car gets hot, it becomes really stiff, I guess metals expand from heat... What do you guys think? And again, if anyone replaced this part, please chip in.
Thanks.
 

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2010-2012 Range Rover Sport
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Discussion Starter #3
2013 RRS SC, 92k ml.
Sorry, this is in my signature so I did not bother.
 

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2006-2009 Range Rover Sport
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Seems hard to believe that it is the U-joint if it gets hard when warmed up. That would strike me more as a loss in pressure. Just thinking out loud here.
 

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Seems hard to believe that it is the U-joint if it gets hard when warmed up. That would strike me more as a loss in pressure. Just thinking out loud here.
I’m going to agree with you. I have changed the steering shaft twice in my 2006 (I do a lot of winter salt road driving), and it was stiff when cold or warm. I think the OP problem lies elsewhere...pump or rack.


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2010-2012 Range Rover Sport
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Discussion Starter #9
Guys thank you for your input. I truly appreciate you chipping in.
In my understanding of mechanics, everything is rusted up, metal parts would get closer as they expand from heat thus, limiting mechenism's motion even more obstructed, stiffer.
Mr. Domex, can you please shed some light about how that shaft was replased? Was it accessed from cabin? Under the car? Wheel arch? From under the hood? Thanks.
 

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2006-2009 Range Rover Sport
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Just wondered if these cars have variable power steering. If so I would guess that there is some kind of valve that restricts the flow. Just did a bit of a search and saw this--
<<
Possibly a servotronic valve issue, This valve is at the RH end of the rack.
These caused heavy steering on Range Rovers. >>
 

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2010-2012 Range Rover Sport
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Discussion Starter #13
By the way, I can drive around of town ok, thats a highway hauls when problem appears most. I would agree that varriable assist just could provide less of assist at speed but if I exit and slow down, steering wheel would still be stiff to turn. If I stop and sort of work it all the way to the left, then all the way to the right few times, it becomes easier. Again, no leaks, fluid is nice and clear, pump sounds healthy....
 

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Roman, here is the relevant section of the workshop repair manual. The steering racks on the L320 are equipped with a servotronic unit. I still believe it is the rack that is your problem.

To change the shaft you will access everything from under the hood, through the driver’s side wheel well (remove the tire) and under the vehicle (make sure it is firmly supported on jack stands or a lift.








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2010-2012 Range Rover Sport
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Discussion Starter #15
Thank you. I have half-shaft already but will order all new bolts and nuts and other hardware involved.
Will post write-up once repair is complete.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Ok, so half-shaft replaced. What a PITA! Everything done from left-hand side wheel arch.
1) put both front wheels up on jacks for easy roation.
2) took a left side wheel off
3) there are 2 heat shield covers and 1 bracket, bracket and 1 cover removed, second bracket just push aside.
4) thre is a 10mm bolt on top and E12 bolt on the bottom holding the halfshaft, spray bottom bolt generously with wd40 and let it soak for a while.
5) you absolutely will need #10 wrench with rachet (see pic) remove both bolts, collaps top part (it is telescopic) and wiggle the part through where you had taken 2 covers and bracket off.
6) wiggle the new part in same manner as you wiggled the old one out.
7)incert bottom part first, expand top part to slide over column shaft.
8) install and tighten 2 bolts, dont forget threadlock the threads.
8) install cover that was slid off, then bracket then tri-angled cover and wheel.
Most difficult points, in that order.
Thread in top bolt on new part. (if you have large hands, I cant imagine the suffering doing it, see pic)
Disingage bottom joint old part
Wash-off my hands after.
Part was something like $140-ish from LRDirect.
Took me and equal amount of time to thread-in top bolt as assemble everything else.
If ordering parts, 100% order bottom bolt, the E12 one.
 

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Nice work Roman. But the big question, did it resolve your steering issue?


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Discussion Starter #20
I will have to confirm Monday. Or if we go strawberry picking tomorrow.
I had to spray bottom bolt with lots of WD40 and because U-joint is few inches away it received oil bath as well so I could not feel and touch how much that mechanism was compromised but even oiled up, I could feel the bind. I mean, you can see how rusted it was in the pic.
I will definatelly revisit this thread and confirm if issue was resolved or not, just as soon as I do some highway driving.
 
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