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Discussion Starter #1
I drive quite a lot of gravel roads in Namibia and there are some bad spots of corrugation when my car hits them there is a knocking sound that comes from the steering wheel but I can move the steering wheel up and down its not loose, I have used the search function does anyone know what it is that is causing the knocking o the knocking happens when the vehicle is going in a straight line and around corners
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Had a mechanic look at the tie rods and it look like they are pretty worn plenty of movement, I have ordered a set of polyurethane bushes as replacement will give them a try if nothing improves will replace the whole rod
 

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The tie rods are one thing, metal to metal balls so if loose then they need to be changed. If the suspension bushings are worn that is something else and they should also be done. Tie rod ends affect steering rather directly so you really don't want one to let go if it is so loose.. Read up on the use of urethane bushings vs oem rubber type. Good luck with your project.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Can anyone give me the correct names for the parts I might need there are two tie rods a leading one infront of the axel and one behind the axel I think the one is called a panhard not sure what the other one is called?
 

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the drag-link connects the steeringbox's pitman arm to the steering knuckle on the oposite side, in-front of the axle. the tie-rod connects the steering knuckles together, behind the axle.]

The panhard rod positions the axle laterally to the frame, it's parallel to the drag-link.

drag-link and tie-rod use ball-joints. panhard rod uses bushings.
 

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2010-2012 Range Rover MkIII / L322
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Don't bother with the polybush approach. On the P38, the stiffer you make the suspension, the less it travels and more stress is inflicted on the components. The Classic offers much more flexibility in terms of suspension tuning than the p38. Although the system is similar in design, they are different, and the p38 has much more of a stiffer and rigid standard set-up.

The pannard rod takes a lot of punishment and although the polybushes stay pretty much in-tact, the bolts wear heavily. By using Genuine rubber bushes, the extra movement in them (over poly) doesn't wear the bolts.

With regard to the links/ball joints, these are pretty much a service item. Once one goes, just replace the whole lot. Also, just because there appears to be no play in them, it doesn't mean they are still servicable. The inside of them has rubber components which I suspect are there to reduce noise and vibration. If in doubt, just chance the unit as it makes a real big difference.

You may find that holding the ball joint in your hand (while someone else wiggles the steering slightly) will allow you to feel movement and even feel where movement is not smooth. Probably in your case, I suspect dust ingress by a torn boot has accelerated the wear and once you get water in there as well it all goes t1ts up.

I'm not 100% sure of the OEM producer, but I've been advised it could well be Lemforder/ZF. I know my suppliers that the price is considerably less that the genuine price so it may be worth looking for a local(ish) :lol: Lemforder parts distributor and quoting the LR part number?
 

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The Namibian dirt road dust (pure sand) will certainly play hell with the ball joints if any gets in there.

Its always worth remembering that the roads you drive on 'to get there' are remarkably similar to what most people on these Forums will pay for a trip to go an play on. That means that you need to treat maintenance as if you are constantly off roading.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Thanks for the info will order the new drag link and panhard rod to install.

Tell me about the dust here I had a camping weekend and removed a ton of dust from the air filter today!
 
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