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Discussion Starter #1
Yesterday the tilt broke on my 2002 L322 RR. The steering wheel goes in and out but just went loose up and down.

The motor sounded like it was still working ok so I removed the shroud to see what was wrong.

It seems that 2 small metal tabs have snapped off a section of the steering column that connects the main column to a tilt nut on the tilt spindle.

I have done a search (with lots of steering column failures) but can't find anything describing this problem.

I'm surprised as it seems these metal tabs are the only thing supporting the steering wheel, so if someone leans on it to get out I would of thought they would easily just snap?

Spoke to the dealer today and they've seen this before and quoted £385 for a new column and £150 to fit.

Does anyone have any suggestions on how to fix without replacing the whole thing? :?:

Fot the time being I dropped out the spindle and tilt nut and put it the other side of the other 2 tabs - this means its permanently fixed high (which is ok for me, better than pinning my legs down) - see picture 3

I am thinking of making a new tilt nut that locates on both sides of the remaining tabs???

[attachment=2:20j7dc85]xxDSC01069.jpg[/attachment:20j7dc85]
[attachment=1:20j7dc85]xxDSC01074.jpg[/attachment:20j7dc85]
[attachment=0:20j7dc85]xxDSC01085.jpg[/attachment:20j7dc85]
 

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Discussion Starter #3
How did you get LR to pay half - did the dealer offer or LR Head Office? How much did it cost you?

I've found a possible replacement one from a 2005/2006 vehicle.

Any idea if this would fit - i believe it may have changed part numbers at some point? :?:
 

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I noticed that the tilt function on my Range Rover has stopped working as well. The only problem is, I can't seem how to access these parts to see what the real problem is. Is there any special tool or trick used to get that middle screw out that is soo far up inside the steering column? My torx screw driver can reach the first and third one, but not the second one at all. Please let me know what you did to take the cover off that accesses these parts. Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter #5
The 3 screws must be removed to take the shroud off, luckily i had a long screw driver that takes a range of small changable heads - one of which was the smaller torx for the last screw. I think this was really cheap and came originally from woolworths of all places?
 

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LR Head Office offered to pay.

They alsp paid for half my diff replacement,then once the recall kicked in they completely refunded me.
 

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Hi I have exactly the same problem, did you find a perment repair for this? The column seems to hinge can it be split at this point? the tabs that have broken off are on a coller that is between the hinge on the column if it can be removed it would make a repair a lot easier.

Mick
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Hi, unfortunatley no fix. I managed to get hold of a replacement one and paid a local RR guy to fit it for £90 so I was lucky.

I investigated splitting the column and replacing just the broken section but it wasn't possible.
 

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Make sure you report this to LR customer care.

I had the same problem and after months of disputing that this was not normal wear and tear and that there is no way this should wear out on a 2004 with 45,000 miles LR eventually refunded me for the full amount for a steering column replacement. I really don't expect the steering wheel to be a consumable part on a $80,000 car.

Recently it also just jammed again, I took it back to LR and they had to unjam and oil the mechanism.

Never a dull day...
 

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I thought I might pull this thread up again, as I managed to get hold of a steering coloum with a fault for nearly free and thought I would give it a try and dismantle the unit.

So far I managed to get at the dreaded "tilt-nut" which tends to loose its noses. You can see where they are broken off.

But the nut itself is just a steel to steel bearing surface to the steel flange inside the steering column. There is a thrust bearing underneath it, but the inside of the nut runs just on a steel surface without any bearing or lubrication.
It was bone dry and I can only move it about a quarter turn with my hand and it really sticks and the movement is not smooth at all.

So, this seems to be the problem here. The nut runs dry and locks up on the steel bush and the noses are a bit on the thin side.

Anybiody around who could think of making it a better design? I would have a go with replacing the nut with a new stainless steel one made up from scratch. Just need to convince a friend in the machine shop----- :)






regards
heppsen
 

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I'm always low on cash so im a great believer in repairing when a replacment is pricey. Luckily i have machining equipment available to me. I think I would be tempted to machine off the broken prongs and slightly thin the base down in the mill. Make some new prongs out of steel or stainless channel then drill and tap them back onto the milled base with some countersunk Allen bolts.
 

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Hello, looking at an age old thread on L322 steering column tilt failures and a picture of the broken part, the lugs have broken off the tilt adjuster in my 2003 TD6 and the column drops on to my knees. I have the column out, can anyone who has successfully dismantled a column tell me how to get the broken collar out? It looks like the upper column and joint (with steering locking mechanism) should slide out of the splined lower half, but for the moment I don't want to exert too much force on it. Once out I will mill the surface on the collar and screw on a new locator with lugs which should be far stronger than the useless cast ones.
 

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Just resurrecting this thread as mine has just gone tonight. Anybody had any luck with dealer paying some of the repairs? Anywhere cheaper to get the assembly?
 

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Just for giggles... I took mine to Conrico LR in Chertsey for a quote.

GBP1540+VAT and they keep the old one as exchange, plus 2 hours to fit @ GBP90 per hour. I think they were offended when I laughed in the parts guys face. Just sourced one from ebay with the same problem, and have fixed mine in a position which is good for Wifey for now. Will be taking this apart and machining the cam assembly, and will post pics of the repair.

What boils my blood is that some old guy or lone female will have the same issue and will have to pay that amount to get it fixed as the know no better in most cases. These stealers are blatant crooks, who have a special place in hell along with their car salesmen counterparts.
 

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I am just awaiting another column from Ebay which has the same problem as mine. I will be tearing this one down to get at the cam ring, and the remaining two pins will be machined off, and then a machined steel replacement will be screwed into the original cam ring. This should solve the problem for good. I will then replace this unit with mine and do the same to mine. Pending the outcome of the unit that is being sent to me, what I could do is get the above completed and then I could send you my repaired one and you send me yours and I will machine that one also - just pay for the machining time. PM if you want to discuss... where are you based?
 

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I recall seeing a thread some time ago where someone managed to track down a source for the clips, they were very cheap, I want to say they might have been less than $5 each. I can't seem to find it now, but I'll keep looking. He had pictures of the DIY process and everything if I remember correctly.
 

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Cheers linusfreakus! Thanks for looking. If you do see anywhere that just sells the cam ring, please let me know. As soon as the ebay one arrives it is disassemble then it is going straight under the milling machine.
 

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I ended up finding on domestically for a reasonable fee ($280.00 shipped) with a warranty. I am going to give it a shot first. gyrogypsy, let me know how it goes on the rebuild. I'll have the broken one here. If you machine the part, we can sell it and split the profit!
 
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