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Discussion Starter #1
I have an HSE 95 4.6 petrol duel Gas. It's been behaving it's self quite well until after a recent fill up with Autogas it misfired or back fired, then soon came to a stop. Upon inspection I found a 3inch rip in the large intake hose going to the head. I would expect such a hole to result in a misfire and ruff running and possibly bring the rangie to a stop as it did.
Did the Chicken come first or was it the egg?
I didn't know if the rip was caused by the misfire/backfire or if the later caused the rip.
Having replaced the ripped hose the problem still rename. Namely it will start with no problem from cold but if it's switched off even before it's warmed up, it will struggle to re-start, it would be okish if I leave it for 30mims or so, and once it's starts it rum Ok.

I put an OBD2 tester on it had 4 faults but since clearing them and running the motor for a bit and retesting no faults are registering.

Any one got any ideas what might have happen? I will get a Rovercom check done, buy if anyone has any pointers for me to try feel free to let me know what I should try to correct this problem.

Regards
Olden
 

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Same problem on my rig. Do you remember the fault codes number?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Oh yes, Hi 996turbo
1: P0443 generic EVAP emission control system purge valve C fault.
2: P1138 gm Heated oxygen sensor (H025) bank 1 sensor 2 Rich or High voltage.
3: P0102 generic MAF or VAF A circuit low input
4: P0152 generic o2 sensor circuit high volts ( bank 2 sensor 1)
however they are not registerimg faulty since they were cleared.
Let me know if this helps you.
Regards Olden
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Had a sort but plesent Sunday drive today, stopped to get petrol on the way back, it took I bit longer than ID planned, it must have took 30 minutes to get running.
Did a OBD2 test on my return, 3 faults two as above P0152, P0102. and this new one P1187 EOT sensor circuit low voltage.
I see the cats don't like backfires or failing plugs, but would damaged cats stop the engine from re-starting?
I've still got to check the result of the electrical test, but if that doesn't point to the problem, do anyone have any ideas as to what the problems is, or what tests to try?
Regards Olden
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Been to busy to play so Still not sorted.
yeserday decided to eliminate the gas element so i removed all the emualtors for the gas. This didnt fix it.
Today I Changed the battery for a real big 95a 930 crank form cold start, yer thought this did the job but NOO!
if someone has any ideas im all ears.
Regards Oden
 

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Could the backfire have damaged the MAF - check output via obd
Are you sure there are no other air leaks. When cold the mixture will be enriched, so if there is an air leak it may still be rich enough to start, but once warm there is no enrichment. So air leak will = weak mixture.

From your post I assume this is a single point lpg system? Personally I don't like these they can easily mess up the fuel trim values for the petrol side of things. Also the fault codes for O2 - are these being generated by the lpg - ie lpg running very rich or just poor emulation?
Do you get any fault codes if running only on petrol?

It might also be worth adding your location.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Hi AMck, thanks for your thoughts,
When i first had the car it had a K&N type filter which would often get "blown off" if a misfire occured. (personally im not that lucky) the current problem i have is just like you say as if the filter was detacted. this is also annoyingly just as my misses suggusted in a passing remark after id been fiddling for hours.

Since those earlier days over time i teased the misfire to the point where i almost forgot that it used to do it. Durring that process i changed the filter to a old landrover canister stlye which was reported to be better for the gas convertion an Impco model Lthis seemed to suit very well certainly looked better. I dont know if its a this is a single point lpg system, the bumph is under.

This evening I cleared the two faults still showing the OBD namely PO102 and PO152 as discribed above, I went for a drive and checked again on return the OBD showed no faults, i switched the ignition off and attempted to start-up again, it worked OK for about 5 re-starts i began to think the new battery had done the trick. Then step on the throtle about half way, dont know if it would have happened if i had tryed again with-out giving any throtle but this time the problem was back as if it was flooded, like the plugs were fouled-up or like you say as if air extra air is getting some how.

I checked the OBD again but it still showed no faults, i had a pull around on all the rubber air input fittings looking for a break in the seals but so far ive not found any.

The Impco gas conversion has a cylinder which sits between the manifold inlet and airfilter, as i said i disconnected all the gas injection emulators i will attempt to remove this gas cylinder and marry up the to original ends, then i think the gas side of things should be eliminated. i dont think it will be the problem as it seemed to drive ok when it was in Gas if the diaphram is torn or damagged from the misfire i would expect it to show when it was driven in gas.

Having been parked up for just over an hour ive just tried to start it again, it didnt want to thou, eventually it did but only after i over cranked it (if you can do such a thing) it was a bit desperate.

As for my location, when i recently visited Scotland and learnt that i was a Norfolkian!
My old grandad was very proud to be from Norfolk he thought it was good.
In fact i recal him often pointing to things stating thats "Norfolk-n-good" thats "Norfolk-n-good" and thats "Norfolk-n-good" im sure he'd think the same about my beloved Rangie.

If anyone care to input their thoughts for a solution dont be shy.


IMPCO MODEL L BUMPH
The IMPCO Model L is a two stage regulator converter. These units are coolant heated and are able to provide liquid vaporization to supply up to 150 kW (200 hp) in industrial engine applications. The L Series regulator provides a negative outlet pressure of -0.37 kPa (-1.5 w.c.). No optional pressures are available. The Model L offers economical performance with full features; rear fuel inlet, primary and secondary diagnostic test ports. Optional silicone diaphragm materials are also available. Regulatory approvals include UL, ULC, E4 Regulation Number 67.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
SORTED! :p
Amck you were on the right track, I think all the engine turning put too much strain on the small starter motor wire on the starter, it was not a clean connection and I must remember it could still do with a proper clean or replacement end, I scratched cleaned and nipped the connector so it fitted nice n tight. With this done it would start again, I thought it was job done, but after a while it wouldn’t not start from warm just as before. I put on a second hand MAF and hey presto.

I would like to say that replacing the MAF was the very next thing I tried, but not before I replaced the Battery @£100, the fuse box @£85 the crankcase sensor @£32 the MAF cost £45 in the mean time I remove all of the gas electric and air system which involved a far bit of time. Anyhow I am chuffed to bits and have been driving around for the sheer joy of it :dance: , at least until the next break down.

I don’t know if the faulty MAF caused the misfire which tore a hole in the air hose which in turn caused the slow but speedy halt to the car, or if the misfire caused the MAF to fail, if I find the will, I may try cleaning the old MAF and test it. But for now I’ve got plenty of good spares so I can quickly swap around and out future faults.

The OBD2 didn’t read any faults when the gas was disconnected, since reconnecting the gas it reads P0152 generic O2 sensor circuit high volts (bank 2 sensor 1) don’t know where to find this sensor, I suspect that this might be normal when gas is involved, if anyone knows kindly get back to me.

Only little problems to deal with now, the sunroof no longer set it-self when the setting process is carried out. and I need to latest RF receiver for the alarm system as I completely removed the original due to the standard well known battery draining problem, its was removed for several months I did not notice any other effects of removing it except of cause having to lock and unlock by key. So im looking to source a second-hand, third up-graded version if any one knows?
 
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