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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Discussion Starter #1
After a gearbox fault code 4 months ago - I have got the car back from the garage - unfixed - I charged the bat 100% and just turned it over - It started 3 times but each time it cut out after 3 -5 secs of running - Anyone know what it could be - I was thinking about checking all the earths - but just thought i would try the key first - so does this rule out the crankshaft sensor and does this mean it is the fuel pump - I hope not - any other easier answers before I have to renew the fuel pump please .

thanks
 

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At this point, it could be anything. You'll probably have to at least connect a OBDII reader first to see if it's registering anything.

Then after that, crankshaft sensor can be a culprit, so can multitude of other things, so you'll have to do diagnostics to eliminate each potential cause.

As for the key, I don't think it's the problem. If the car starts w/ your key even for 3 seconds, then definitely not the key.
 

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Don't think it will be the crank sensor as if it goes bad then the EM looks at injector 4 the one with the sensor on it (may be No 5) is there any one close by with a same model pre or post 1999 that you can swap the EM with that should rule out the EM. normally if the fuel pump is going bad then it will be bad to start but when running should keep going have you checked for air in the fuel system.
Tony
 

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Premium Member
1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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I have had the same problem. In my case the MAF (or how is that thing called right after the air filter) sensor was the blame. After that was replaced, the car kept running again.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks for everyones views - I shall first check the air in the fuel lines, will have to look up the Maf - as cannot remember what it looks like or where it is, I have another fuel pump of off a 525 bmw apparently I just have to make it fit as one of the pipes are placed differently. will know more next week as I have to rely on a friend with his tools and a second pair of hands.

thanks again will report back
 

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The BMW fuel pump will not work without swopping over the electronics on the top of the pump.You also need special tools to accurately set the pump timing.(to within 1/1000 of an inch).
 

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JACK'S GRANDAD
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Guessing he has a diesel then John?
Not a clue myself, as no details posted by the OP.....

Martin
 

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Discussion Starter #9
SO SOrry I have a 98 2.5 Diesel - and have just posted that i cannot find my MAF!
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Discussion Starter #10
I have a 994 Bosch fuel pump and my free replacement from a friend I now find out is not good enough it is a 995 apparently the 993 and 995's work via a potentiometer whereas the 994 work on wave form and that the return pipe is situated on top of the 995 as opposed to the side on the 994 - I take it these 2 pumps are not interchangeable - if that is the case I should try putting the 995 pump on ebay to get some money towards a 994 pump I reckon.
Invetween I thought I would check the MAF sensor but can't find it it's not on the rubber pipe after the airfilter box - any ideas?
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Discussion Starter #11
Can't really check for air in the fuel lines if the engine isn't running can I - Dah !
 

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Thanks for everyones views - I shall first check the air in the fuel lines, will have to look up the Maf - as cannot remember what it looks like or where it is, I have another fuel pump of off a 525 bmw apparently I just have to make it fit as one of the pipes are placed differently. will know more next week as I have to rely on a friend with his tools and a second pair of hands.

thanks again will report back
MAF fitted with EGR MY99 on, so you won't have one, I have a 98 and a 99/2000 one has, one hasn't, you can check for air in clear fuel line between filter and fuel injection pump (FIP) without the engine running, fuel will be at the lower end towards FIP, air higher towards filter, the fuel in the FIP will start the engine and if the fuel pumps (tank to filter) don't manage to push the fuel past the air in the pipe in time, the engine will cut out, in my case the air was entering through porous leak-off pipes (1st & 2nd from front) mainly the front one returning fuel to the FIP, my problem though was very poor starting, but after many attempts with the fuel pumps running the air was eventually pushed through the system and it continued to run without problems. The leak-off pipes run from FIP to front injector, from front to next and so on to rear and then a blank-off plug at the end, these pipes rot down over time due to heat etc generic 3.2mm diesel leak off pipe readily available very cheap, circa £5-£6 at Halfords and such and a doddle to replace, hope some of this helps.

cheers John
 

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JACK'S GRANDAD
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Deduction Martin,somewhere it was stated as a 2.5,which I believe only can as a diesel.
Another thread maybe John?
Oh well, sorted out now mate huh?

Martin
 
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