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Discussion Starter #1
For the past couple years, I've been chasing an intermittent starter problem. The solenoid sticks, both open (doesn't go when I hit Start) and closed (runs-on after I go to On). The solenoid appears heat damaged, and I've "fixed" this several times (cleaning or replacing the solenoid each time). First, I just replaced the solenoid. Next time, I replaced an exhaust flange bolt that was blowing onto the starter, and installed a Disco heat shield. Next time the problem came back, I replaced the electrical part of the ignition switch (had obvious mechanical damage with a fold in the foil). Last time, I replaced the Ignition Load Relay.
Today, I could hear the starter motor running, even though the solenoid wasn't closed. (I just replaced with an old, noisy Lucas starter. I've been bouncing between this and a chinese ripoff of a Bosch, with at least two solenoids each.) The whole rig died on the road, and the starter motor was wicked hot.
In other words, I think all of this is because my starter motor sometimes runs-on and fries the solenoid.
What else should I check? Of course, the gremlins know when a meter is hooked up, so the small solenoid wire also reads 12V or 0V when it's supposed to (an intermittent problem).
I found the Ignition Load Relay under the steering column, exactly where the manual said it was. However, I've seen comments about a relay on the firewall -- there, I only found the relay for the washer pumps.
I'm thinking that I either have: 1) some weird short that's giving power to the small solenoid wire; 2) some problem that's killing the Ignition Load Relay, in a manner that causes this run-on; or 3) some other bad relay.
It's a '94 County, 4.2l.
I just got into work, so don't have the shop manual in front of me. (Was just 30 min late -- thank god for good neighbors!)
 

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2006-2009 Range Rover MkIII / L322
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If the starter motor is running but the solenoid is not energized that's a definite sign of a failure in the solenoid. Perhaps you should fit a new solenoid lubricated with hi temp grease. Or a complete new starter. It's true that you could have a bad ignition switch or relay, but most of the time stuck starters are starter problems alone.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
j e robison service co said:
If the starter motor is running but the solenoid is not energized that's a definite sign of a failure in the solenoid. Perhaps you should fit a new solenoid lubricated with hi temp grease. Or a complete new starter. It's true that you could have a bad ignition switch or relay, but most of the time stuck starters are starter problems alone.
That's what I've been thinking for the past couple years. But yesterday's failure was on a brand new OEM Lucas solenoid -- had maybe 40 miles on it. It's also failed on a brand new chinese Bosch ripoff solenoid. And it's failed on at least two used solenoids. It's gotta be something upstream.
I'm honestly glad I didn't fry a whole new starter. But when I figure this out, that's what I'll buy.
Thanks.
 

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Be careful with that thinking . . . I have seen people here go through five of those cheap off-brand starters to get a single good working unit. Don't assume that it's good just because it's rebuilt. The ones I trust are the brand new genuine smaller units. The gear reduction motors.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
j e robison service co said:
The ones I trust are the brand new genuine smaller units. The gear reduction motors.
Thanks for your help. I see "new genuine smaller units", but they're not gear reduction. This doesn't list GR starters: http://rangerovers.net/rrpartsv.htm#starter
I've never used a GR starter. After just a quick check ... this looks good to me: http://gustafsonspecialty.com/3brit.html. ("This is a brand new not remanufactured starter, with 1.4kW on tap.")
I can't tell if this is the same (says "reman"): http://www.britishstarters.com/. But I got there from the above site.
I'll do some more searching later today. Recommendations are welcome.
Thanks again.
 
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