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Discussion Starter #1
Bit of a long story but it will give some back ground and hopefully an answer.

I had an intermittent issue with the starter not starting immediately when turning the key. Sometimes I would have to turn the key 3 or 4 times or leave the car for 5 minutes and it would start. It then got to the stage where it would start instantly cold but would take up to 15 seconds hot.

I left the car outside the house (I dont use it daily) and the alarm started going off by itself. It turned out to be the RF receiver under the parcel shelf which I replaced for the new version. However, this had also burnt out the front two door lock motors.
I have replaced the drivers door and the car locks and unlocks on the remote. Locks on the key but doesn't unlock all the doors until the key is in the ignition (Battery is low though).

However!

My starter isn't working. It's not immobilised as the dash says "engine immbilised" press button on remote to start. I push the button it clicks and NOTHING! :doh:

After reading through various posts I checked Relay 16 is clicking but nothing from the starter motor. The car is right down so I cant get underneath to look at the starter (It's parked in the road) but due to not having any lights that dim when turning the key and no clicks I can only assume it's a wire off the solenoid or something else? All earths are OK and the thick wire from the alternator is ok. Is the starter on the drivers side (UK)? Can anyone else enlighten me before I get it recovered to the dealer? :crybaby2:

Cheers

Ray :think: :pray:
 

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Dear Ray

I'm sorry that I can't give any answers to the immediate problem that you are experiencing , but I can say that I have recently been having similar problems to yours, which, at first, I put down to an immobilisation problem, but which recently make me think might be starter/relay/solenoid/ ignition switch related. Having swapped the starter relay and installed a new battery I have reduced, but not eliminated, the problem and have to carry a laptop and Rovacom at all times to instuct the BECM to mimic ignition key stage 3 and turn over the starter in case of problems.

I was interested by your comment that 'It turned out to be the RF receiver under the parcel shelf which I replaced for the new version. However, this had also burnt out the front two door lock motors' I also have had the 2 front door lock motors repeatedly burn out, but I hadn't linked this problem to the receiver. Is there a causal link between the 2 ??? It would help me a lot if I could understand why the door locks burn out repeatedly.

Steve

'95 HSE
 

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Discussion Starter #4
After much reading I am of the feeling that my car is still on keycode lockout.

I have done the code as per my handbook and code but it still doesn't work. So I'm thinking I either have the wrong code in the paperwork or I'm stupid! :shock:

My sequence is 4 anticlockwise before you start and then enter the code.

Is there any telltale to say your doing it right?

I cant see the lights coming on the dashboard? Should they be?

Cheers

Ray
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Just done the EKA again and it's definately done and working correctly (all doors unlocked)

Starter motor still dead. Turn key and the lights dont dip and no click etc. The clicking relay is the yellow fan relays not the green one. The green one seems to click when the immobilisor is switched off.

I cant get under the car as the suspension is down. I jacked the car up and all connectors are in place. However the cable from the solenoid to the starter is white which would say to me that it's overheated. However I would still think it would click or something? :think:

Am I missing something. I've checked all fuses under the bonnet and they are fine. I've changed relay 16 no different.

I have a feeling it's a recovery job to the dealers! :crybaby2:
 

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Your Engine is Immobilised and that locks out the starter motor.

I always start on a metal key instead of the remote blade (I have seen Merc keys fall apart) and as the remote is a little too far from the ignition barrel I get exactly what you are describing; it says press key to start, you do that the dash lights work and the starter motor works so you can start. - It ought to say "press key to be able to start".

I would start by fully charging the car battery, change it for a known good one if you can, and possibly in batteries in the remote.
 

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Just to report back on my fault (possibly similar to Ray's). This morning, couldn't restart from a traffic light queue, caused a huge traffic jam in rush hour on the A419. Had to call out RAC, as the usual get arounds using Rovacom weren't effective, and the very helpful mechanic started it by tapping the solenoid. So, in my case, it looks like the starter motor, nothing more complex such as BECM/EMS comms which I had suspected. New one on order from lrseries.com
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I've spoken to Rick today (CallRova) and he is of the opinion the BECM has lost it's coding with the module. I need to find someone local to me that can put it into "learning mode" to sort the issue.

So that's next on my agenda! :D
 

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i had learnt here that loosing the code was impossible on GEMS. Strange !!
Did you have to use a Testbook ?
 

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Does a Synchmate would work in that case?
 

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I guess it should work:-

Info copied from ebay:-
"The BeCM Sync-Mate solves an increasingly common problem of P38 Range Rovers (94 to 2002) being left stranded because the BeCM, in effect, forgets the immobiliser code it needs send to the (EMS) engine management system for it to start the engine.

Previously when this happened, there used to be only two ways to get moving again: The first was to call out a garage with a diagnostic tool to reset the system and then pay the mechanic a "call out" fee for approximately 2 minutes work. This will fix the problem – until the next time.

The second way is to fit a new or used BeCM which will cost anything from £600 upwards plus the cost of programming and fitting.

There is now a third way! The BeCM Sync-Mate. Within a minute your BeCM will be automatically resynchronised with the engine management system and you will be on your way.

To re-synchronise your BeCM, you simply plug the BeCM Sync-Mate in and it resets the BeCM for you. No fuss, no palaver and more importantly, no costly call out fee just for two minutes work.

When it has finished working, it lets you know what it has done. With intelligent use of a high intensity flashing LED, the BeCM Sync-Mate will inform the user that the BeCM: Is already synchronised, or it is has been re-synchronised. Finally it could also inform you that there has been a communication error - in which case it will then also tell you the cause of that error.

This fault appears to only happen on Diesel version P38’s and Motronic (face lift model) petrol P38’s. At present the problem doesn’t occur on Gems vehicles."
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Well mines a GEMS 4.6 1997 model and it happened on that I'm afraid.

According to Rick it is a rare but known problem. Chances are it wont happen but in my case it did!

I must be unique! :oops: :D
 

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Allright, i'll buy a synchmate soon.
 
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