[sotal]

I've just put together the engine in my v8 4.6, before plumbing the water side of things in I wanted to make sure it turned over OK. To make sure it didn't try to start I removed the spark plugs (well actually never put them in) but otherwise everything is connected the coil pack is connected to the multiplug, but the spark plugs aren't in the HT leads.

On turning the key I just get a click, The Climate Control Screen goes blank but stays lit. If I put the headlights on, they don't dim at all.

However if I supply 12v directly to the Spade Terminal on the starter motor the starter motor spins over happily and the engine turns nicely.

So I've acheived my aim of turning the engine over but now have found this problem that I would like to cure.

Any ideas?

 

[LIRA]

Have you tried replacing the relay for the starter in the fuse box, just swap it with another one and try again.

Another thing that can cause this is the BCM can loose the security code between it and the engine ECU, need Testbook or something simular to check.

Fault I had that caused this problem was a break in the loom between the BCM and GEMS ecu, the security code was present on both ecu's but the broken wire caused the two ecu's not to talk to each other and the engine wouldn't start.

The loom comes out of the BCM and runs in a chanel under the sill treadplate and up through the bulkhead, damp gathers in the chanel over time and corrodes the wires in the loom.

 

[sotal]

Thanks for replying - yes I swapped the relays around to see if it made a difference but it didn't


Does the message centre give any errors if the ECU's can't talk? I thought it was supposed to give an error? I'm off to the garage with the multimeter in a bit to spend a couple of hours this evening trying to trace the fault.

Found a section in RAVE which gives a number of points to check and possible causes so will start with that.

Thanks again for replying :thumb:

 

[sotal]

I've followed the RAVE guide and it gives me the following list of possible causes:

BECM
Ignition Switch
WR Wire
B Wire

I've read up a bit on the Security Synch thing and it makes it sound like the engine will turn over if the ECU is out of Synch with the BeCM and it also makes it sound like the problem where it loses synch is only really a problem on the 99->petrol engines and diesel engines. So unless it is a broken wire?

The testing procedure from RAVE involved testing the Brown and Red Wire which Exits the Fuse Box (C508) (at the fuse box end) for 12v when the key is turned to position III. This is the wire which I presume goes straight to the starter solonoid (same colour). I get 0v here so that rules at a break in that wire.

The next procedure is to check for 12v on the White and Red Wire on connector C117 where it goes to the fuse box with key in position 0. This gives 12v.

The next test is to check the other end of the White and Red Wire at the BECM on connector C113. This again shows 12v.

When the ignition is turned two relays click - these are the two FAN relays in the front corner of the fuse box. I presume it is just disabling the high current drawing things like fans ready for cranking. No other relay clicks. If I remove both of these relays I can just here a quieter click of a relay which I think is coming from the BeCM.

I think the fact that the fan relays are clicking shows the ignition switch is working. The WR wire is 12v at both ends so I'm not sure why it gives that as a possible cause? Not sure which the Blue Wire is and where it goes.

So other than it leads to BeCM.

So where do I go from here?

Is it time to connect it to a diagnostics machine? Not sure if I can do this - obviously can't move the car so would have to get someone to the car or buy a faultmate. I do know someone who works for a place which has Ford Diagnostics, Ive heard him mention IDS and WDS before - would either of these work? and are they portable? Might be too big a favour to ask anyway as they're not his, so thought I'd check if they'd do the job before asking. Also are they obvious enough to use?

Anything else to check - any fuses etc which should be checked?

 

[LIRA]

no messages on the dash when I had this problem, both ecu's held the correct security code, it was checked by Testbook hookup.

Check all your fuses, or at least the ones associated with starting and engine running. The broken wire was found by pulling the sill treadplate off and pulling the loom out and checking the integrity of each wire until the broken one was found.

 

[NZRANGIE]

Hi, I was just wondering if you got to the bottom of your problem? My rangie has just started to do the same thing and I have done most tests I can think of doing to only end up banging my head against it!!!

any help would be much appriciated.

Jason

 

[John W]

Hi, I was just wondering if you got to the bottom of your problem? My rangie has just started to do the same thing and I have done most tests I can think of doing to only end up banging my head against it!!!

any help would be much appriciated.

Jason

What model is your Rangie?

 

[diff]

For what its worth ours would not start last march until the caa tech suggested a hit with a hammer. I crawled under with a 1 1/4wrench and gave the starter a few wraps. Rangie started fine. As I recall I had nothing on the dash. Someone mentioned that the bosch starters can have wierd failures (but temporary) like that. After a rebuilt starter almost set ours on fire I finally just replaced the still working bosch starter with an ebay purchase which ships for 25. Can't think of the name but it spins quick (almost to quick till you learn to get off the key sooner) I dont have a history on our rangie but assume it was an original starter. The teeth looked basically mint on flywheel and starter. I can only assume the sticking brush scenario was resolved but there is a secret in there somewhere. Good luck