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Discussion Starter #1
ok, I have a 99 Range Rover 4.0. I have read quite a bit in regard to this issue in various forums, but any thought or assistance would be greatly appreciated. The situation: When cold, the car starts and runs absolutely fine. If I just leave it idling in the driveway, it will stall out maybe 45 minutes later. If I drive it, it will stall maybe 20 minutes into a drive when I am decelerating to a stop. Then, it will be impossible to start until the engine has almost fully cooled off. Typically about an hour.

I have removed all of the breather hoses, cleaned, stepper motor, cleaned, basically everything cleaned on the air breather system. Everything was very gunky. I have read several places to remove the "flame trap" or "spark arrestor" on the passenger side valve cover to clean. I removed the hose, which leaves the smooth metal fitting that the hose fits over with a plastic insert inside of it. I assume that this is what is being refered to as the "flame Trap" or "spark arrestor" My question here is how do you remove it. Initially, I assumed it was threaded into the valve cover and I ahve tried to unscrew it, however it doesn't move and it is a relatively flimsy piece of metal and I don't want to force it. Additionally, when it didn't move, I began to fear that it might have a nut on the inside of the valve cover which I don't want falling off inside of the cover.

Another observation is that the motor has typically leaked oil. not a lot, but a little gunky around the valve covers. When it first stalled on me, I got under the car and oil is everwhere, gunky running down the side of the motor from the valve covers. I read that a plugged breather (spark arrestor) may cause massive oil leaks because the engine pressurizes. Which again leads me back to removing, cleaning, replacing the "spark arrestor", breather, whatever we are calling it. Thoughts would be appreciated.

Going to the garage in a minute after I complete typing to remove the o2 sensors as that is another area which I have read may cause the problem, but going back to the oil leak, feel that it is a breather issue. Thank you in advance.
 

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hi, I'm new at this game. Funny how most of us join the forums when we're in bother.

I had the same symptoms om my 2000 4.0 which then evolved into a no start at all problem. My local indy checked it out with test book and no faulty sensors were found. There is no voltage to coil pack, fuel pump or injectors. An ignition ECU from a similar car resolved the problem. Replaced the ECU (bosch) ok for 2 days now have the same fault again. Is there something we are missing as the ECU's are a tad expensive.

Many thanks, Keith
 

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2010-2012 Range Rover MkIII / L322
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Your indy needs to take the car on a 1 hour road test with T4 running the live data. This would probably identify the problem. I'd guess that John's answer above is close to the mark actually.

The breathers need attention. Just replace the whole lot of them after an engine oil flush, correct oil and filter change.

How much were you charged for a new engine ECU?
 

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I'm sure that when my man gets back from holiday he'll be doing the road test, when it eventually starts. Managed to pick a couple of ECU's up for less than £90 each. Hopefully a new crank senser will mean I have 2 good ECU's for sale. I'll get a crank sensor and let you chaps know.

As an aside what a marvellous vehicle these things are. Had a few problems withe eas, sorted with a compressor and valve block refurb. Trimmed the ends of the cruise tubes, replaced the heater "O" rings. For a vehicle thats 10 years old, cruises all day at 90, tows 3 ton with ease and has done 15K in the six months I've had her it is superb. I'm converted.
 

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The live data will give the answer to the fault,I'm guessing that the Oxygen sensors are inactive leading to over - rich fuel mixtures.But dont just change them,make sure they are not capable of switching before condemning them.Does the car run LPG aswell ?
 

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Thanks for that AllyV8, I appear to have unwittingly hijacked Jbrans thread here. When my man gets back next week I'll get him to do the live test. if / when we can get it started.

When its running it does use LPG, has done since january, but at the moment the problem isn't fussy as to what fuel it refuses to run on. Leave it with me and I'll update with our solution.

Many Thanks to all, Keith
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I didn't mind the hijaking, learned a bit from what was added. I haven't had a chance to get back at it again since my original post. However, can anyone give me some insight into how that breather fitting attaches to the valve cover. The more I think about it, I believe that it is just threaded into the cover. I've squirted some wd40 around it, and hope that allows me to unscrew it when I next give it a go. There is just nothing much to grab onto, need a small pipe wrench or similar to grab it and am feerfull I am goign to destroy it if I pursue that approach. Insight, experiences would be appreciated.
 

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My 3.9 had fairly similar symptoms, if it didn't start on the first crank when hot it was impossible to start thereafter until it cooled. Was like that for months until I posted some data from faulmate and someone suggested I check if the coolant and fuel temp sensor plugs had been reversed (easy to happen, they're very near each other). Sure enough, plugs had been swapped by indie guy who changed camshaft for me. It was using the cold fuel map when the engine was hot.
Swapped them back and RR has been a dream to start hot or cold ever since.

A faulty coolant sensor might do the same thing.
 

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check the vacuum line from the plenum to the fuel pressure regulator... mine was bad, giving similar issues and driving me nuts... 75 cents of vacuum line sorted it (but mine would re-start no problem)
 

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Discussion Starter #12
sorry, just getting back now and wanted to give some feedback about what ultimatly came out of my stalling issue.

I let the Rover sit all summer. The summer car is s 66 chevelle convertible, so... was in no rush to get things going and gave me a breather from my frustration. As fall rolled around, went to fire up the Rover and didn't get anything. No spark to any of the cylinders. Had the coils checked, all good. Seemed like a superlock issue. Had it towed to the dealership. They tell me the BECM is bad and aI need a new one. $2,450 for the BECM and $950 for installation. Plus a couple of hundred for diagnosing the problem.

I researched BECMs up and down. Locked, unlocked, superlocked, fitting a used one, etc. Ultimatly found this guy:
Rover Renovations
Attn: Kermit
3234 Ne 24th St # 6
Ocala, Florida 34470
Phone: (352) 629-7783
I Sent him the BECM. he opened it up, diagnosed some corrosion, fixed the corosion, documented all the vehicle specific information, confirmed that all internal circuits and electronics were working properly, installed in a test vehicle to insure that it was working properly, reinstalled all vehicle specific settings and sent it back. His charged me $350. Dealership installed it and everything works great now. Dealership did charge me $950 for taking it out and putting it back in. The Rover was already there, so at that point, just had them do it. But from conversations with KErmit, it would have been possible to just uninstall it, send it to him and reinstall myself without the need for the super expensive dealership computer or their highly trained electrical service people on staff. Ok, Sarcasm aside, if you are having BECM issues, give him a call. I learned a ton just from talking to him. He understands theses things insde and out and 1000 times more knowledgable than the "it just isn't working, need a new one" that I got from the dealership.

If your BECM is locked, I think he charged $200 to unlock it. And somewhere in that vacinity if you have a BECM that is truly unrepairable and as long as the memory is still intact, he can pull your vehicle specific information and put it on a used BECM.
 
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