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2016 RR Sport SC Dynamic
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Got it off eBay one of the PA dealers was selling it. It was 70 dollars or so.
 

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Hey all. I'm new to this forum and to LR/RR. I'm usually over on Expedition Portal for my '98 Montero but I wanted to post here as I didn't see much in the vein of DIY/tech write ups for the RRS vs. this forum. My wife just purchased a 2014 RRS with 49k miles and I now 'get it' as far as why these trucks have such a rabid following! I like simple when it comes to my vehicles but I'm learning to appreciate all the gadgetry engineered into this beast. Unfortunately it left her stranded within a week of ownership, requiring a AAA tow back to the house this weekend. The gear shift button broke while she was parallel parking and left her stuck in the middle of a busy street here in LA. The shop said it'd be around $600 to replace the entire shifter plus labor and 5-6 days just to get the part delivered. I did find some replacement buttons on foreign sites similar to ebay for around $20 but delivery time was 12-18 days. So I tore into it..

Using my mini screw driver set, I carefully pried off the gear position indicator plate which appears to be held on by an adhesive/double sided tape. I then used the small driver to carefully pop the parking button off.
View attachment 269678
You can see the parts removed to the right of the pic, they're upside down to show the small clips on the P button and the back of the plate.
The small screw in the shifter is a Torx 8. Remove this long screw and you'll then be able to pop out the cover with a small screwdriver.
View attachment 269680
From there, carefully maneuver the electrical switch unit out of the shifter by pushing on the shifter button and guiding the whole piece towards you. KEEP AN EYE OUT FOR THE PIECE OF THE BUTTON THAT HAS BROKEN OFF. You'll need this to guide the length of your repair later.
View attachment 269682
View attachment 269684
Now you can turn the unit to the side and see how the shift button is connected. It swivels on two small points as seen just to the right of my thumb nail in the next photo. You can disconnect the electrical connector and take the whole unit into the house to get better lighting. Study the button, its arm and the slide on the unit that the arm contacts and pushes to enable shifting. You'll likely find that the tip of the arm is broken off completely so that the arm no longer contacts the slide, hence stuck in park. Now VERY carefully use a small screwdriver to push one of the small axles in and CAREFULLY maneuver the button off of that axle/nub and then do the same to the other side. It took me a few tries and one side was easier to get off vs the other but I don't recall which side. The other side will then require a similar technique to free it. Be really cautious and take your time. If you break either post, you're pretty much SOL. Once you visualize the part, you'll understand..
View attachment 269686
With the button removed, you can see that when pressed, it pushes the long plastic arm which then presses the slide on the unit and allows shifting out of park. Again, the tip will likely be broken off as the arm tapers at the end which weakens the plastic arm at the pressure point over time and it just breaks off. Lousy design.
I debated several ways to remedy this and came up with using a cotter pin that slides perfectly onto the arm with the cotter pin eye extending out to the same length as the arm with the small broken off piece. It's important that you keep the broken piece so that you'll know how much of the cotter pin end to trim off so that your repaired arm is the same length as OEM.
I used a very small piece of tape to attach the broken bit to the arm and then line up my cotter pin to find the right length. I did have to trim the pin a bit. I also had to bend the legs of the cotter pin a bit so that when it slid onto the arm, the legs stayed flush against the arm vs flaring out to ensure stability in the grooves of the arm. I pinched the eye of the cotter pin to narrow it down so that it would fit through the tunnel on the electrical unit. You'll see.. I also had to bend the tip/eye of the cotter pin up a bit so that once installed, it had an angle at the tip. In my version, if I left the eye straight it would have been partially actuating the slide on the electrical unit. The slight bend allows the slide to fully close when the button is installed back onto its axles. I know this sounds a bit complicated but once you get a cotter pin or similar metal piece onto the plastic arm and installed, I think it'll make sense. It took me a couple of times to get the shape of the cotter pin correct so that the slide on the unit had full range of motion. Made me a little nervous removing/installing the button a few times as the posts are really delicate as I mentioned.
View attachment 269688
View attachment 269690
The pics don't show the bend at the end of the pin I mentioned, apologies. I was too excited to get the thing back together and test it out! Once I was sure about the configuration, I dabbed a bit of epoxy onto the cotter pin legs and the arm of the button to maybe give it a bit more support.
Threw it all back together, started 'er up and bam, down the road I went, $800 richer!
A bit long in the narrative I know but I wanted to hit the details that made this work. Hope this helps. Lemme know if you have a different approach as the cotter pin was just something I had handy.

SIR! PLEASE how do I put the button back on!?? I have a new replacement button! How can the arm slide back in the slot!?? WITH THE OTHER PEACE IS PREVENTING IT FROM GOING IN?
 

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2013-2015 Range Rover Sport
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14 Posts
Hey all. I'm new to this forum and to LR/RR. I'm usually over on Expedition Portal for my '98 Montero but I wanted to post here as I didn't see much in the vein of DIY/tech write ups for the RRS vs. this forum. My wife just purchased a 2014 RRS with 49k miles and I now 'get it' as far as why these trucks have such a rabid following! I like simple when it comes to my vehicles but I'm learning to appreciate all the gadgetry engineered into this beast. Unfortunately it left her stranded within a week of ownership, requiring a AAA tow back to the house this weekend. The gear shift button broke while she was parallel parking and left her stuck in the middle of a busy street here in LA. The shop said it'd be around $600 to replace the entire shifter plus labor and 5-6 days just to get the part delivered. I did find some replacement buttons on foreign sites similar to ebay for around $20 but delivery time was 12-18 days. So I tore into it..

Using my mini screw driver set, I carefully pried off the gear position indicator plate which appears to be held on by an adhesive/double sided tape. I then used the small driver to carefully pop the parking button off.
View attachment 269678
You can see the parts removed to the right of the pic, they're upside down to show the small clips on the P button and the back of the plate.
The small screw in the shifter is a Torx 8. Remove this long screw and you'll then be able to pop out the cover with a small screwdriver.
View attachment 269680
From there, carefully maneuver the electrical switch unit out of the shifter by pushing on the shifter button and guiding the whole piece towards you. KEEP AN EYE OUT FOR THE PIECE OF THE BUTTON THAT HAS BROKEN OFF. You'll need this to guide the length of your repair later.
View attachment 269682
View attachment 269684
Now you can turn the unit to the side and see how the shift button is connected. It swivels on two small points as seen just to the right of my thumb nail in the next photo. You can disconnect the electrical connector and take the whole unit into the house to get better lighting. Study the button, its arm and the slide on the unit that the arm contacts and pushes to enable shifting. You'll likely find that the tip of the arm is broken off completely so that the arm no longer contacts the slide, hence stuck in park. Now VERY carefully use a small screwdriver to push one of the small axles in and CAREFULLY maneuver the button off of that axle/nub and then do the same to the other side. It took me a few tries and one side was easier to get off vs the other but I don't recall which side. The other side will then require a similar technique to free it. Be really cautious and take your time. If you break either post, you're pretty much SOL. Once you visualize the part, you'll understand..
View attachment 269686
With the button removed, you can see that when pressed, it pushes the long plastic arm which then presses the slide on the unit and allows shifting out of park. Again, the tip will likely be broken off as the arm tapers at the end which weakens the plastic arm at the pressure point over time and it just breaks off. Lousy design.
I debated several ways to remedy this and came up with using a cotter pin that slides perfectly onto the arm with the cotter pin eye extending out to the same length as the arm with the small broken off piece. It's important that you keep the broken piece so that you'll know how much of the cotter pin end to trim off so that your repaired arm is the same length as OEM.
I used a very small piece of tape to attach the broken bit to the arm and then line up my cotter pin to find the right length. I did have to trim the pin a bit. I also had to bend the legs of the cotter pin a bit so that when it slid onto the arm, the legs stayed flush against the arm vs flaring out to ensure stability in the grooves of the arm. I pinched the eye of the cotter pin to narrow it down so that it would fit through the tunnel on the electrical unit. You'll see.. I also had to bend the tip/eye of the cotter pin up a bit so that once installed, it had an angle at the tip. In my version, if I left the eye straight it would have been partially actuating the slide on the electrical unit. The slight bend allows the slide to fully close when the button is installed back onto its axles. I know this sounds a bit complicated but once you get a cotter pin or similar metal piece onto the plastic arm and installed, I think it'll make sense. It took me a couple of times to get the shape of the cotter pin correct so that the slide on the unit had full range of motion. Made me a little nervous removing/installing the button a few times as the posts are really delicate as I mentioned.
View attachment 269688
View attachment 269690
The pics don't show the bend at the end of the pin I mentioned, apologies. I was too excited to get the thing back together and test it out! Once I was sure about the configuration, I dabbed a bit of epoxy onto the cotter pin legs and the arm of the button to maybe give it a bit more support.
Threw it all back together, started 'er up and bam, down the road I went, $800 richer!
A bit long in the narrative I know but I wanted to hit the details that made this work. Hope this helps. Lemme know if you have a different approach as the cotter pin was just something I had handy.
Awesome writeup, thank you...
 

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Mine just popped today. I was able to pull the button and use a pen to get it in drive. Thanks for the write up! I'll be fixing mine tonight.
 

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I am struggling with the cotter pin, does anyone have an approximate length it needs to be? A video of someone doing this repair would work wonders for me.
 

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175 Posts
Any chance you would be willing to explain your process a bit more to help me?

I ended up purchasing the repair kit (LR117072) as I could get it in a day from the closest dealer. I recommend it as it contains all new parts for the assembly not just the switch and button. The switch comes pre-assembled with the button making it a 30 second job if you already have it apart.
 

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Hey all. I'm new to this forum and to LR/RR. I'm usually over on Expedition Portal for my '98 Montero but I wanted to post here as I didn't see much in the vein of DIY/tech write ups for the RRS vs. this forum. My wife just purchased a 2014 RRS with 49k miles and I now 'get it' as far as why these trucks have such a rabid following! I like simple when it comes to my vehicles but I'm learning to appreciate all the gadgetry engineered into this beast. Unfortunately it left her stranded within a week of ownership, requiring a AAA tow back to the house this weekend. The gear shift button broke while she was parallel parking and left her stuck in the middle of a busy street here in LA. The shop said it'd be around $600 to replace the entire shifter plus labor and 5-6 days just to get the part delivered. I did find some replacement buttons on foreign sites similar to ebay for around $20 but delivery time was 12-18 days. So I tore into it..

Using my mini screw driver set, I carefully pried off the gear position indicator plate which appears to be held on by an adhesive/double sided tape. I then used the small driver to carefully pop the parking button off.
View attachment 269678
You can see the parts removed to the right of the pic, they're upside down to show the small clips on the P button and the back of the plate.
The small screw in the shifter is a Torx 8. Remove this long screw and you'll then be able to pop out the cover with a small screwdriver.
View attachment 269680
From there, carefully maneuver the electrical switch unit out of the shifter by pushing on the shifter button and guiding the whole piece towards you. KEEP AN EYE OUT FOR THE PIECE OF THE BUTTON THAT HAS BROKEN OFF. You'll need this to guide the length of your repair later.
View attachment 269682
View attachment 269684
Now you can turn the unit to the side and see how the shift button is connected. It swivels on two small points as seen just to the right of my thumb nail in the next photo. You can disconnect the electrical connector and take the whole unit into the house to get better lighting. Study the button, its arm and the slide on the unit that the arm contacts and pushes to enable shifting. You'll likely find that the tip of the arm is broken off completely so that the arm no longer contacts the slide, hence stuck in park. Now VERY carefully use a small screwdriver to push one of the small axles in and CAREFULLY maneuver the button off of that axle/nub and then do the same to the other side. It took me a few tries and one side was easier to get off vs the other but I don't recall which side. The other side will then require a similar technique to free it. Be really cautious and take your time. If you break either post, you're pretty much SOL. Once you visualize the part, you'll understand..
View attachment 269686
With the button removed, you can see that when pressed, it pushes the long plastic arm which then presses the slide on the unit and allows shifting out of park. Again, the tip will likely be broken off as the arm tapers at the end which weakens the plastic arm at the pressure point over time and it just breaks off. Lousy design.
I debated several ways to remedy this and came up with using a cotter pin that slides perfectly onto the arm with the cotter pin eye extending out to the same length as the arm with the small broken off piece. It's important that you keep the broken piece so that you'll know how much of the cotter pin end to trim off so that your repaired arm is the same length as OEM.
I used a very small piece of tape to attach the broken bit to the arm and then line up my cotter pin to find the right length. I did have to trim the pin a bit. I also had to bend the legs of the cotter pin a bit so that when it slid onto the arm, the legs stayed flush against the arm vs flaring out to ensure stability in the grooves of the arm. I pinched the eye of the cotter pin to narrow it down so that it would fit through the tunnel on the electrical unit. You'll see.. I also had to bend the tip/eye of the cotter pin up a bit so that once installed, it had an angle at the tip. In my version, if I left the eye straight it would have been partially actuating the slide on the electrical unit. The slight bend allows the slide to fully close when the button is installed back onto its axles. I know this sounds a bit complicated but once you get a cotter pin or similar metal piece onto the plastic arm and installed, I think it'll make sense. It took me a couple of times to get the shape of the cotter pin correct so that the slide on the unit had full range of motion. Made me a little nervous removing/installing the button a few times as the posts are really delicate as I mentioned.
View attachment 269688
View attachment 269690
The pics don't show the bend at the end of the pin I mentioned, apologies. I was too excited to get the thing back together and test it out! Once I was sure about the configuration, I dabbed a bit of epoxy onto the cotter pin legs and the arm of the button to maybe give it a bit more support.
Threw it all back together, started 'er up and bam, down the road I went, $800 richer!
A bit long in the narrative I know but I wanted to hit the details that made this work. Hope this helps. Lemme know if you have a different approach as the cotter pin was just something I had handy.
Very useful.
Yesterday evening It happened to me in a parking lot. Luckily after unscrewing and removing some plastinc caps I was able to operate with the shift button broken in the same position as your.
My Land Rover shop I contacted by phone told me that the only solution was to replace the entire shifter for around 800/900€! and because it was not promptly available they have to order it and in 3 or 4 days they should have it available. I was able to reach home yesterday evening and this morning also following your description I was able to fix it!
 

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2019 Range Rover Sport SCV8 ATB (L494)
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I ended up purchasing the repair kit (LR117072) as I could get it in a day from the closest dealer. I recommend it as it contains all new parts for the assembly not just the switch and button. The switch comes pre-assembled with the button making it a 30 second job if you already have it apart.
I got the repair kit delivered today (just a precaution, my shifter button is fine so far). The parts included are shown below. One question - I assume the long metal piece in the bottom left of the 2nd photo below is a prying tool to be used in the repair? I bought the kit just for peace of mind. I'll keep it in the vehicle with some small screwdrivers in case it ever breaks.
289677
289678
 
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I got the repair kit delivered today (just a precaution, my shifter button is fine so far). The parts included are shown below. One question - I assume the long metal piece in the bottom left of the 2nd photo below is a prying tool to be used in the repair? I bought the kit just for piece of mind. I'll keep it in the vehicle with some small screwdrivers in case it ever breaks.
View attachment 289677 View attachment 289678
Ha, I was just thinking I should get a kit for my new 2019 RRS. Every RRS should come with one in the glove box.

Yes that’s just so you can pull the plastic cover off (Top right in your photos) and access the screw to replace the whole assembly.
 

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2019 Range Rover Sport SCV8 ATB (L494)
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Ha, I was just thinking I should get a kit for my new 2019 RRS. Every RRS should come with one in the glove box.

Yes that’s just so you can pull the plastic cover off (Top right in your photos) and access the screw to replace the whole assembly.
Thanks - I figured that's what it was for, I just wanted to be sure.
 

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2013-2015 Range Rover Sport
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462 Posts
Does this repair kit contain upgraded parts, so that it cannot break and leave you stranded?

Sent from my G8441 using Tapatalk
 

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2013-2015 Range Rover Sport
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Sjoe, managed to find the ONLY kit in a 1,500km radius at a dealer 60km from me!

Now to fit it - does anyone know of a YouTube video of the installation, or have instructions on how to do it?

Thanks

Sent from my G8441 using Tapatalk
 

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2019 Range Rover Sport SCV8 ATB (L494)
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Sjoe, managed to find the ONLY kit in a 1,500km radius at a dealer 60km from me!


Now to fit it - does anyone know of a YouTube video of the installation, or have instructions on how to do it?

Thanks

Sent from my G8441 using Tapatalk
If you have the kit and look at the pictures in the first post of this thread, it looks pretty easy. The kit comes basically pre-assembled. Once you pry the cover off and remove the screw, you just disconnect the electrical connector, swap the parts, reconnect the electrical connector, tighten the screw, and put the new cover on.

Not sure if the parts in the kit are "upgraded" - I'll bet they're the same.
 
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Thanks, I have a long road trip next week, will keep it in the cubby with a small screwdriver.

I don't want to jinx it before the trip!
 
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