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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Discussion Starter #1
Had the top hose go a few days ago, had it all apart and trying to get a suspect air lock out of the cooling system (see other thread!) and noticed the neck of the oil filler that the cap screws into is split. The whole neck thing unscrews and i can see that almost all the way up the fitting is a split, I didn't notice this when I topped up the oil a few days ago, any thoughts?

Any one seen this before?
 

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I replace them on a customer's rigs every 6 or 7 months. It happens when people over tighten their caps. All Rover engines use the same thread so they are all interchangeable. If you want a longer one purchase a Classic filler. Don't forget to make sure you have a nice new ORing on your replacement.
 

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Ok thanks, another common fault. How come all the faults are common?! :oops:


Some items like this are not faults. They are due to age, improper service or in this case, some moronic monkey proving his strength when putting a cap in place. It's a 20 year old piece of plastic subjected to heat and cold. It happens. You deal with it and move on. THese are like $10 or $15 depending on which one you purchase and you will never have to replace it again.
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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72 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
Thanks RRtoadhall, I totally get it.

My comment was meant as tongue in cheek. I am having a hard time of it at the moment (see other threads) will get my sense of humour back when I actually get to drive the car and enjoy that part of it as opposed to working on it!

Dan
 

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LEGACY VENDOR
1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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4,195 Posts
Thanks RRtoadhall, I totally get it.

My comment was meant as tongue in cheek. I am having a hard time of it at the moment (see other threads) will get my sense of humour back when I actually get to drive the car and enjoy that part of it as opposed to working on it!

Dan
Some might say that working on it has to be part of the enjoyment of owning one of these RR's - and I think it's why so many of them go for scrap, because people can't be bothered to work on them, or realise that they have a 15-20yr old vehicle that was anywhere from £35-60K depending on year/spec when it came out. And that it requires the attention/maintenance of a vehicle of that age/stature.

I have times where mine really annoys me and the air turns blue and the occasional spanner might get thrown to the ground... it is frustrating at times, but when I get the task I'm working on completed - she always manages to put a smile back on my face starting it up and going for a drive. I don't know what it is about them, but it does it every time without fail - no matter how much cursing had ensued before hand.

Stick with it, and once you get through the initial teething problems of sorting out all the issues (most of which stem from lack of prior maintenance rather than actual design defects with the vehicle itself) the 'List' does get shorter and you get into doing the little bits and pieces and the normal service work to keep on top of it, rather than always feeling like you are playing catch up!

Keep reading threads on here, and asking questions when you're stuck - and then think about the bucket load of cash you are saving (and can then be putting towards other parts etc) by doing the work yourself - rather than paying even an independant LR workshop to do it for you. I was doing my front diff and one of the hubs took 4 hours of hammering to split. I was P***ed off at it, but once all was said and done - I looked back on it and figured I saved myself about £300 in labour over paying a workshop to sit there and hammer the thing out, which easily covered the cost of all the parts on the job - and the next aswell.

I think it's all about perspective and what you value more - the time driving it and paying someone else to fix it, or how much you've saved by doing the work yourself, and gaining the knowledge on working on it yourself (and knowing it's been fixed properly - to your standards!)

Best of luck on getting your air lock out and electrical bits sorted (from your other threads)

Marty
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Discussion Starter #8
Thanks Marty for a great reply, made me look at everything a bit different and I approached the day with renewed vigor! I spent the best part of the day on the air lock and along with my mate (who took the day off work to help me) but as you will see from my other thread I hit a brick wall and unfortunately with the best will in the world I have a problem I couldn't begin to sort myself. Am absolutely gutted.

Dan
 

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LEGACY VENDOR
1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Just read the other post and that is a bugger...

Still, head gasket set isn't that much - and the kits generally come with everything that you need to do the job. Get stripping it down and you can have it rebuilt in a weekend....

If it's any consolation - mine is doing pretty much the same at the moment... top hose getting hard when running, it's only been doing it since I swapped the water pump, so I am *fairly* sure it is just air trapped in there somewhere and being a total pain to get out - but I keep worrying that it's going to go pop at some point soon.

I've got a sniff test kit on the way aswell so I can do a check on it - and if by some worst case scenario it has blown a gasket then I guess I'll be getting the sockets out a bit earlier than I had anticipated! Least it will give me an excuse to give it a good cleaning out, and finally put the replacement cam in I've had sitting around for the last few years!

I know if sounds like a massive and it's a bugger that it is the HG - but could be a lot worse - and they could be a LOT more difficult to work on (thinking later RR Sport models where you have to take the body shell off to do some maintenance works on the engine!

There is light at the end of the tunnel - and just image how good it's going to be to fire it up after it's back together and take it for a proper run!

Marty
 
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