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Discussion Starter #1
OK, still dealing with my horrible steering. (as well as all the rest of my problems)

All over the road.

I have an 89 without ABS
When the spindles were free, there was almost no resistance. I could move left and right with just a slight motion.
I know that the "fish scale" method is to be at approx 12 lbs.
I think my fish scale must be bad as I have to pull really really hard on it by hand and can only get it to 6lbs

I removed some shims and got an even amount of pressure on both the right and left side.
Maybe I did not remove enough as my steering is still all over.
There is much more resistance than before however...
Is there a way to tell without the fish scale?
How hard should it be to move the hubs by hand?

Thanks all
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Another possible thought on my steering...
I recently put all now shocks and springs on my 89 and I got medium load and should give 2" of lift.
Also new tires.
Would this mess up my castor?
Do I need those castor correcting bushings?
I wouldn't think 2" would cause as much wander.
I am assuming I also need an alignment after all the new equipment correct?
 

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30 yrs of age, check and or renew your suspension bushings. if rear has failed it will steer the vehicle from the rear and cause handling issues as it sways, if front is loose it will wander all over the road.
a mild lift will exacerbate said concern. you have just spent a good amount of money on suspension and tires, put a few more bucks on the rest pf suspension, your truck will feel totally different nice and tight.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Yeah I have watched that video a few times.
Excellent and informative.
However, when he is happy with his resistance, it looks very loose to me when he is moving it around.
Not super loose, but also nowhere near 12lbs
To me it looks that way
 

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Yeah I have watched that video a few times.
Excellent and informative.
However, when he is happy with his resistance, it looks very loose to me when he is moving it around.
Not super loose, but also nowhere near 12lbs
To me it looks that way
It’s not loose. You should feel a slight resistance.


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Its being done without any other parts in that video, which will be different if seals etc are included.

Once the bearings are shimmed to give no movement and a small amount of preload, then they don't need to go further than that as it's non productive. Essentially the outer casting will start to deform the main swivel sphere by squashing it to more of an egg shape, stopping before that stage is important to correct setup.

Bare assembly of just upright and sphere once any bearing movement has been eliminated will only require any very small amount further to give a light load on the bearings. This to make sure when subjected to vehicle weight you won't have a geometry that can rattle about, it's only a small amount "pinch" to make that assured.

The vehicle weight sits on the bottom bearing, when subject to that load it shouldn't be able to push the top one out of contact to preserve wheel geometry in use.
 

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Forgot to add, if tracking is incorrect on front axle it'll not give a good feel.

Easiest manual way without specialist equipment is to measure between wheel rim inner faces in front of and behind axle at centre height to see which way the wheels are pointing in relation to each other.
 

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Were you experiencing the ‘death wobble’ or is it that your steering feels loose? If no wobble, swivel ball play won’t be the issue.

You can check your fish scale by hanging a known weight, like a 5lb dumbbell off of it., but I suspect your root cause is elsewhere in the front end suspension/steering.

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Discussion Starter #11
I will hop under there and see if I can get some accurate measurements. Maybe my problems could simply be out of alignment.
My steering box seems good although there are leaks down there which I cannot seem to find.

As far as doing a full bushing kit, how hard is that job?
I think since I have almost replaced everything on this Rover, I may as well do the bushings.
 

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you could go the easy install route by installing polyurethane, removal of old bushes is best done if you have a ball joint press and and impact gun. if you want to reinstall factory style they need to be pressed in as well, second option if installing factory bushing kit remove all parts take them to a machine shop, let them do the press job, with 2 inches of lift you do not need caster correction parts.
 

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The most important thing with swivels is both sides are equal...If too tight they wear quicker, but I doubt you have them so tight it will be a problem. The lift will indeed exacerbate issues with worn bushings...These are funny...if everything is worn and "loose" it almost feels normal, but if one thing becomes tightened up, it then throws the geometry out of whack, so always best to be sure everything is tight...

If you're wandering, then it is likely alignment (which wasn't a problem when everything was loose) but if you get moments of sudden direction change, it could be rear-steer. Death wobbles is usually panhard/shocks/damper problems...

Get an alignment and go from there....
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I just finally got to measure distance between front and back of the wheels
Front measure 52 1/2 and the rear measured 53 1/4
That is 3/4" difference.
I am assuming that is too much.
 

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Way, way, way too much. Try setting it up parallel for datum and see how that goes. From memory the classics like about 1.2mm toe in, but actually run better parallel.
 

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As above, way too much toe in.

If everything was perfect (absolutely no play at all) but not really possible, then both straight ahead would be close to ideal.
In the real world just a small amount of toe in is a good basis for starting a setup and see how you go from there.

Practical limit would probably be something like 1/8 inch toe in, past which you are going to get problems. Must be a factory figure in Rave but not looked.

Overall a 1/16th to start is going to do most of the job for you.

Try it like that and let us know how you get on.
 
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