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I wanted to add some information to the community that might help people down the line. Most of the information out there is for audiophile installs, and lets be real most l322s are sub $10k vehicles at this point. The goal here cheaply fix the two most common problems, and still do it the right way.The problems being rattling door speakers and the crappy excuse of a subwoofer.

Door speakers

The l322 uses 2 ohm speakers.The door speakers that rattle are 6.5 midbass at the bottom of each door. Of the 2 l322s I own and the one my girlfriend owns these speakers blow first.The mids and tweeters are usually fine, don't even bother replacing them unless they are already blown. The mids are awkwardly sized for a 2 ohm speaker, hard to mount and are already crossovered to the tweeter. Stick with finding a 2 ohm 6.5in for the lowers and save the $$ this will fix 70% of the crap sound you are hearing. the other 30% will be your crappy subwoofer.

note:
Not a lot of places just sell 2 ohm drivers but you can take them out of readily available component kits. JBL (harmen) makes a 2 ohm component kit for $100ish, the infinity kappas everyone talks about I bet are good too but kind of $$ at $350 as of 2020. I got a good deal on some CDT 2 ohm 6.5 midbass drivers. I'll post some pics of that install on my new RR when they arrive.

Subwoofer

The subwoofers in the l322 like the p38 and the classic are... cute I suppose. They probably worked fine new but a few years down the road not so much. Putting a real sub in its place is pretty easy and depending on how much you care, a you can make it a seamless integration. Just please dont be a hack run exposed wires, and properly match you amp sub and wiring.

You'll need:
Subwoofer with enclosure
Amp
Amp wiring kit
Hi lo converter (somthing like a db link from amazon)

How to do it

A) wire amp power and ground


Run the amp power cable from the battery to the trunk down the right side of the vehicle trough rubber grommet behind battery. To not be a hack and hid it this involves removing a lot of interior panels.

remove;
kick panel
front and rear door sill plates
b pillar trim
c pillar trim
leather bolster below c pillar
spare tire cover
all trunk carpeted access panels and coverings

Find a ground in the trunk, I used the bolt in the right hand trunk compartment.

B) Wire amp signal

To get signal to power on the amp as well as an audio channel you need to remove the green multi plug behind the original subwoofer. This is all located in the left side of the trunk. There should be 6 Wires. red 2 brown 2 yellow and a green. The yellow wires (yellow green stripe, yellow black stripe) are the sound signal, cut and wire these into the high low box this will convert them to an rca out(im not sure which wire is positive and which negative I'll get to that). The green wire is the the 12v trigger extend and wire that to the rem hookup on the amp.

C) Phase

Your sub should be working! you can even control the level with the factory headunit! The yellow wires the signal comes from determine the phase, if the polarity is switched the sub won't sound right and be out of phase use the app speaker pop or a phase tester to check the speaker is firing correctly. I wired the polarity backwards on mine, but have a phase switch to correct it on my amp. Ill edit this section and provide the correct polarity next time I take a look at the wiring.
287228

287227

287225

Thanks for reading hope this helps
 

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2006 Range Rover Sport 2016 Mercedes S550 4MATIC
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Very funny statement: "lets be real most l322s are sub $10k vehicles at this point ".

My 06 RRS HSE is probably sub $5k. Nevertheless, it doesn't prevent some of us here from sinking in over $5k for fixes and upgrades. Therefore, spending another $10k sounds reasonable to me too :LOL:
 

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Any consideration to using the original sub cabinet? Don't know what size it is but I wouldn't want an external sub box kicking around the cargo space. Or even remove the original and mount the new one out of sight. Also, did you look for a way to pull a line level signal for the sub to bypass the original amp? It appears this setup runs it through the original amp then drops that to line level, re-amplifies for new sub.
 

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2010-2012 Range Rover MkIII / L322
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Very funny statement: "lets be real most l322s are sub $10k vehicles at this point ".

My 06 RRS HSE is probably sub $5k. Nevertheless, it doesn't prevent some of us here from sinking in over $5k for fixes and upgrades. Therefore, spending another $10k sounds reasonable to me too :LOL:
He means Pre-09 L322s.

My MY12 AB I paid $30k cash for and my MY12SC I paid $25k cash for. Both had about 60k miles on them when I bought them last year (2019). Both my purchases were within a few months of each other and below market value at the time.


Any consideration to using the original sub cabinet? Don't know what size it is but I wouldn't want an external sub box kicking around the cargo space. Or even remove the original and mount the new one out of sight. Also, did you look for a way to pull a line level signal for the sub to bypass the original amp? It appears this setup runs it through the original amp then drops that to line level, re-amplifies for new sub.
A quality 12v installer would build a fiberglass box to replace the factory sub box and wouldn't do this install the way indicated in this thread, this is a hackery install and not how you want to do this job to get the best results. It is cheap to do it this way but I wouldn't personally go this route. My first business 30 years ago was a 12v shop. We did lots of custom fabrication back in the day, I'm speaking from personal experience.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Yes I mean the l322 without the ticking 5.0. those are still $11k.

Its not hackery Datafoo, the green plug feeds the into an individual sub amp from the factory. Therefore where you would be cutting in is not after the sub amp and still retains DSP. Custom fiberglass sub box is going to cost minimum $300 diy upwards of $500 to have someone make. It also wont fit a decent woofer back there and be too punchy even if you domanage to get a sealed unit in there. Get a decent 8 or 10 put it in a ported box or what I use, a passive radiator. You can take that setup out whenever you want with by pulling the speaker wires. You can also revert back to re solder the 3 wires I cut and plug the green back in and its stock.

Stop trying to start drama datafool all you managed to do is tell everyone you overpaid for a deprecating asset. I posted this because our cars have sophisticated factory sound systems a lot of shops dont like to work on, or will sell you up the river with custom stuff you dont need.

To clear up this thread answer norcal rr and not fill it with more garbage.
The green plug is between the headunits DSP and a satellite subwoffer amp. Cutting in here allows control of the subwoofer from the factory headunit as well as retaining timing from the DSP which is the whole point of logic 7.

If Datafool would just read the rave or has actually taken out his subwoofer out he'll see the sub amp... after the green connector of course. If he was a "12volt" shop owner with 2 eyes he'd would have seen the 3 wires not used were a 12volt permanent live and two grounds.
 

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The yellow wires (yellow green stripe, yellow black stripe) are the sound signal, cut and wire these into the high low box this will convert them to an rca out
Thanks Nacra52, but I'm confused with the quote from your post. By high low box, I assumed that was taking a speaker level signal and converting to line level RCA for input into your new amp. If the yellow wires are "upstream" of the original amp, why the need for the high low box? Were you referring to a low pass filter to pull bass information only into your amp?
Personally, I think speaker design even for subwoofers is too important to use random enclosures (not saying you did, but you didn't cover enclosure selection). And I don't want to lose cargo space. The Infinity Bass Link series seems like a good option to possibly be used in the factory sub space. That way the enclosure and driver and possibly amp are all designed to work together. I tend to approach car audio as a home audio enthusiast and I can't imagine building my own box for a home audio sub unless it was a kit designed that way. I also don't find the sub to be the weak link to the RR system. I was finally able to try my RR's system properly since my CD died right after purchase. Using an friend's Ipod with lossless files into the Bovee cord, it actually sounded much better than FM or satellite radio. I didn't find the bass lacking to my tastes, but I still feel like the electronic trickery of the Logic 7 doesn't sound very natural. But audio is like paint color, what I like is not for all. If you like your setup that's what matters. And thanks for posting your install information.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
By high low box, I assumed that was taking a speaker level signal and converting to line level RCA for input into your new amp. If the yellow wires are "upstream" of the original amp, why the need for the high low box? Were you referring to a low pass filter to pull bass information only into your amp?
The high low is the easiest way convert to RCA which. I tried soldering RCAs to the upstream subwoofer on 5 and 7 series bmw and never got the desired signal strength. The logic 7 is basically and upgraded BMW DSP system with more wattage and 2 additional channels.

As for the enclosure a few years back I discovered these neat little Boston acoustics Gtuned G5 GTR setups. They are are a dual voice coil 10 inch driver made when Boston used to make their good stuff in Massachusetts. It's really compact and simple to take out if you need the space. It measures 1'x1'x1' and weighs 40lbs. What is great about the design is its use of a passive radiator. With the passive radiator you get the smoothness of a ported enclosure in the footprint of a sealed enclosure. The passive radiator is basically a driverless speaker cone that is weighted and balanced to the driver. The passive radiator moves in and out in relation to the driver, moving air similarly to a ported enclosure. I'll admit It is punchier than a ported enclosure, but about a quarter to third the size its totally worth the compromise. G5 drivers are also 450 watts rms 2 ohm and those are real watts not 2000 watt peak marketing bs so you have some headroom while dialing it in.

Hope that helps explain better the hackery of my $300 sound system in my sub $10k RR ;)
 
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