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Discussion Starter #1
So, I'm shopping around for spark plugs for my 02 P38, which calls for double platinum plugs.

I believe the part called out for in the manual is a RC11PYPB4, which is a Champion double platinum plugs. So, I looked up the parts list suitable for 02 models at PEPBOYS, and with their catalog the champion double platinum plugs come up as part #7318. Are these the same thing?

Thanks in advance.
 

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2010-2012 Range Rover MkIII / L322
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Not sure how much they are selling them for, but you may want ot check the price with your dealer first. The UK dealer price is around £8.50 + Vat each.

If you use www.sparkplugs.co.uk and enter the Champion part number, you'll get the plug details which will help you identify the plug from the second source.

Again, if it helps, the part number is NLP100320
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Hello, thanks for the input. I've been doing research on my end, too, and came across a site called sparkplugs.com, which is essentially an equivalent to your referenced sparkplug.co.uk.... Anyway, the sparkplugs.com site may even be more detailed pertaining to part numbers.

I may be answering my own question, but apparently, the OEM spec part number is 7070, not 7318. However, the only difference between the two is that the tip on 7070 is projected tip, solid terminal, .039 gap w/ heat range of 11, whereas 7318 is projected core nose w/ .040 gap and heat range of 12.

So, the followup question is is this a huge difference that's gonna affect the performance? For ref, 7070s are sold for like $7-8, whereas 7318s are sold for $3.
 

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2010-2012 Range Rover MkIII / L322
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There was a post from someone in SA a few weeks ago about plugs. The plug ends could have been a contributing element to the engine running problems he experienced.

TBH, you don't need to use these plugs. BMW decided that their Motronic needed different plugs to GEMS for no obvious reason. You can use the standard BPR6ES NGK's in a Bosch engine V8 without any problem at all. Why not do that?
 

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Thats fine, only reading the other day that LR fitted fancy plugs with the intro of the Thor engine. Seems they only need changing at 72 thou! sounds too much to me. Going to look further into it.
 

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RPI was selling Thor plugs for a bosch motor but the champion # was slightly different. They were for a 'high compression ' engine. I never got a reply to see if they were OK for ours. However, if the plugs are double platinum they will likely go the distance if all is normal within. My chev van uses a double platinum delco plug and they will last . The only thing we should worry about is the possibility of the threads being jammed with carbon which could hurt the cylinder head threads when plugs are finally removed. {Only repeating advice from our resident rangie guru] Is that $3 plug a double platinum tip. I believe that anti-seize on the plug threads is also a good idea. No pep boys in Canada, but would like to hear the outcome.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Hey, diff, thanks for the reply.

The $3 is indeed a double platinum plug. In fact, it's a Champion double platinum plug. Only difference, it appears, is the shape of the tip. Heat range difference between 11 and 12, I imagine is pretty marginal. The gapping difference is marginal as well, where the OEM is set at .039, whereas the other one I found is at .040.

The OEM tip is more pointed, whereas the other one is more cylindrical in shape. I don't know much about spark plugs, but would this make that much difference to warrant paying double the price?

Regards,
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Hi there theo,

I also own a 2002 and I replaced my plugs over 12 months ago with something a little less exotic (read expensive here) Here in Oz the LR stealer wanted a small fortune for a set of plugs. If memory serves right it was quoted at about $1000 AUD for plugs and leads. Ouch! So I researched plugs and I know my leads from my other cars. I installed a set of Bosch WR7DP plugs which cost me $52 AUD and I got a set of TopGun Leads (helical wound carbon resistive stainless wire silicone High temp leads) for $80 AUD. Frostie hasnt had any problems since then. (Well not related to the ignition anyway) My only issue was with the leads which were for the older P38, I felt they could have been a touch longer to make it easier to install them. I did find that as I pulled the original leads one of them broke in my hands from being very brittle. I think that may have been my tiny engine miss I felt occasionally. (nb I am a really fussy engine guy and notice tiny things) Before I installed the WR7DP plugs I re-gapped them to 1.0mm as they came from Bosch set to 0.8mm. Be very very careful when you do this as you can destroy the plug really easily when you play with the earth conductor. Do not touch the ceramic insulator with anything metal or you will cause the plug to misfire under load (due to high voltage tracking) :naughty: The hardest thing was getting the plug leads on the coil packs, do not use any silicone grease here or they slip off which is very frustrating :roll: I also used hi-temp anti-sieze compound on the plug threads and a torque wrench set to 15ft/lbs since the head is aluminium alloy.
The WR7DP heat range is spot on for the 4.6 high comp motor and I am not having any issues at all. I have done 30,000Km now on these plugs and leads. In fact since its been over 12 months I am considering replacing them again.

I hope this helps you choose.
Cheers n beers
****
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Hi, thanks for the input Rat002. I think I feel more comfortable going w/ the Champion double platinum part#7318.

Besides the price being less than half the OEM cost, being able to shop at Pepboys, or Napa for that matter, makes it so much easier-Just a 10 min drive to the closest one.

Anyways, once I do the deed, I'll update to see if I experience any problems w/ it. Besides that, I was planning on keeping the original HT cables, but after reading your post, I'll probably go ahead and get them replaced at the same time.
 
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