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2006-2009 Range Rover Sport
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Discussion Starter #1
So I was doing about 80 on the interstate I heard a loud pop from something on the left side and the rover pulled left for a moment before going back straight. DR amber light, DSC amber light, brake amber light, abs amber light, and adaptive headlight amber flashing. I pulled over to the the shoulder but noticed no difference in drive quality so I limped back to the hotel. Air suspension seems locked at normal height and didn't drop. The speedo quit working. I shut it down and started it back up, engine running smooth but all the lights were still on less the DR light, it went off. Parking brake engages and goes off fine. The message center says something about an engine fault and HDC system unavailable.

I am going to have it towed to the shop that was scheduled to look at my fuel trim issue in the morning.

What the hell happened? any ideas? Its pouring rain so I couldn't get under it.
 

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2006-2009 Range Rover Sport
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Flat tire perhaps...if you're running low profiles, it may be hard to see at night in the rain?

Seems unlikely you'd have snapped a ball joint or drop link but perhaps you hit a piece of metal on the road?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Flat tire perhaps...if you're running low profiles, it may be hard to see at night in the rain?

Seems unlikely you'd have snapped a ball joint or drop link but perhaps you hit a piece of metal on the road?
All the tires are fine and it seemed to drive fine all the way back to the hotel at 40. The tire pressure light is one of the few that isn't on.
 

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2010-2012 Range Rover Sport
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If it pulled left for a split second and corrected itself then it could have something to do with the automated driver assists. Anything from traction control to ABS. For the car to correct itself like that suggests that something failed, and then something kicked in to correct the car. As a fail safe, the car has been forced into a standard suspension mode.

Dude I have no clue but if everything seems fine except for the warning lights and the suspension locked in standard mode then I'd say it's a judgement call. You can either limp back to a dealership as, like you said the car runs fine. Or, because of that engine warning you can put it on a flat bed and take it to the nearest dealership. I would NOT recommend an independent shop for this type of issue. They will just make guesses break the car even more.

Roverguy...... We summon youuuuuuu lol
 

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Are all the tires the same, as in you didn't replace one tire and have 3 used ones?
 

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Good on the tires...maybe worth checking the pressure nonetheless on all 4. Then I'd check to see then if there is any fluid leaking out from anywhere up front...seems highly unlikely but perhaps a power steering hose or something else popped off it was hit by a piece of debris...or maybe it was a pothole and the system went haywire from the sensors.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
The shop called today. They said it was the wheel bearing. It was a good thing I took it easy and slow back home and towed it to the shop because they said it could have caused other damage to other parts but it didn't.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Are all the tires the same, as in you didn't replace one tire and have 3 used ones?
Even when my daily driver was a Jeep with 200K+ miles I didn't not make the poor decision of mismatching used $20 tires. I would not buy a vehicle with superior ride quality then ruin it with worn out tires. The tires that came on it all match, I actually want new ones but its doesn't make sense to trash these as they have more than half of their life left.
 

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Even when my daily driver was a Jeep with 200K+ miles I didn't not make the poor decision of mismatching used $20 tires. I would not buy a vehicle with superior ride quality then ruin it with worn out tires. The tires that came on it all match, I actually want new ones but its doesn't make sense to trash these as they have more than half of their life left.
I wasn't trying to offend you, there have been tons of threads on all sorts or problems from someone replacing just the one that went flat, or replacing just the rears that were worn down. Even putting the spare on if the other tires are worn down occasionally causes problems with traction control engaging and causing it to pull and veer.

You asked for suggestions on the problem...
 

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The shop called today. They said it was the wheel bearing. It was a good thing I took it easy and slow back home and towed it to the shop because they said it could have caused other damage to other parts but it didn't.
Hopefully that is the culprit, when you were driving it slow, did you hear any grinding as a completely blown wheel bearing if it truly caused this type of reaction should be howling like crazy? Since you've got 100k miles already, that's about right for Wheel bearing replacement. Now if the other side is also the original bearing (service records indicate anything about wb changes?), then I would recommend also changing it as well to have them both the same age.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I wasn't trying to offend you, there have been tons of threads on all sorts or problems from someone replacing just the one that went flat, or replacing just the rears that were worn down. Even putting the spare on if the other tires are worn down occasionally causes problems with traction control engaging and causing it to pull and veer.

You asked for suggestions on the problem...
Some other moderators can be somewhat condescending. In their defense some of the post can be pretty ignorant. I just read it an a way other than how you intended to say it. I appreciate you response and willingness to help.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Hopefully that is the culprit, when you were driving it slow, did you hear any grinding as a completely blown wheel bearing if it truly caused this type of reaction should be howling like crazy? Since you've got 100k miles already, that's about right for Wheel bearing replacement. Now if the other side is also the original bearing (service records indicate anything about wb changes?), then I would recommend also changing it as well to have them both the same age.
I am in a position where I must pay them to do it ($750). I noticed all the parts are in the neighborhood of $200 if I remember right. It looks like it involves pressing it out. How difficult is this repair? I was thinking of paying them to do this one and then trying to do the other myself once I am back home in about a week and a half. Asking if they were supposed to be replaced in pairs crossed my mind but after they mentioned the price for the one that thought was gone.
 

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2006-2009 Range Rover Sport
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I take it that it's the front left wheel bearing they are replacing? Trying to remember how much it cost me to do it several years ago...

Sounds on the high side...if the part is 200 (not just the bearing but the whole assembly), that leaves $500 for labor..so approx. 5 hours of work? Seems to be more time than I recall. Recommendation is really not to press the bearing out, but to also replace the whole assembly, and that also simplifies the process.

A link to Atlantic British on how to replace the front wheel assembly....hopefully this helps...
http://www.roverparts.com/resources/videos/hub-bearing-assembly-replacement-lr3/
 

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The shop called today. They said it was the wheel bearing. It was a good thing I took it easy and slow back home and towed it to the shop because they said it could have caused other damage to other parts but it didn't.
The wheel bearings????? REALLY?

prior to both my front wheel bearings blowing out I noticed loud knocking noises when taking 90 degree turns until finally they really started knocking under various conditions. I'm calling BS on what the tech told you because not once on my car during the 4 hour limp back home did a warning light go off in the car... But that 4 hour trip was full of episodes where the steering wheel would shake and occasionally pull to one side then another. The shop is lying to you and most likely they don't know what it is and are trying to troubleshoot by replacing something the know they can replace.

2 questions...

1. Is this "shop" an LR dealership and if not, do they know LR cars?

2. Did the tech let you feel for play in the wheel bearing when the car was up on the hoist? My tech did and when I grabbed the whole wheel I could literally knock it around by about 1/4 inch. That's how bad it was.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
http://www.importspecialty.com

There are lots of mechanics around here and most of them will say they will work on a Land Rover but really have NONE of what it takes. If these guys have the equipment it takes to program a module with a Service Bulletin software update I believe them about the wheel bearing because the dealer level diag equipment that takes is expensive to buy and maintain and shops that never see a LR don't have it and they try and working on them by getting as close as they can with a snap on code reader and throwing some parts at it.

These guys know their stuff I believe. I checked them out when I had something small I needed done and was being picky about who I should take it to here. I picked them out a week ago, I didn't just dump it off at the first import shop I could find with a sense of urgency from a broken wheel bearing.
 

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I get that and I'm not saying you didn't do your research. I'm just saying that considering what I experienced with both of my front bearings, your experience seems extremely odd given all the warnings that went off on the software side.

Do a search of other threads where the wheel bearings blew out or were making noise and see if other member experiences are similar to yours. I can see the computer flipping out and lighting up the dash if one of your bearings blew and locked up the driveshaft but that would have caused far worst damage than what your tech is telling you
 

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Discussion Starter #17
They called and said it was ready to be picked up today.

I asked why the wheel bearing was so expensive and they explained that it was because they replaced the whole wheel hub and not just the bearing. The hub was about $450 and then two hours of labor at $118/hr. Which seems reasonable given my dealer is $130/hr.

They did say that in the state it was in they were surprised it did not cause more damage.

I read some threads about the front diff locking up and causing all sorts of near death. So when I was cruising at 80, heard that pop and then a sharp deceleration and pull, that thread flashed through my mind and I was waiting on the front wheels to lock and the truck to flip over.
 

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See my previous note on Atlantic British so you can get the next one at a better price...along with the video in case you decide to DIY. :)
 

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Discussion Starter #19
See my previous note on Atlantic British so you can get the next one at a better price...along with the video in case you decide to DIY. :)
Yes, I think I am going to do the other side when I get home from this trip.
 

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Yes, I think I am going to do the other side when I get home from this trip.
Make sure it's the exact same part number so they wear more evenly.

BTW, did you ask them why all the warning lights came up?
 
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