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Discussion Starter #1
Well I’ve been carousing the board for some time trying to glean as much info as I can as I’m in the market for a P38A. I hope my questions are not too general.

I’m looking at three P38A’s - a 2000 HSE 4.6 with 85K, a 2002 HSE 4.6 with 75K, and a 2002 SE 4.6 with 66K. As I’m in Albuquerque I’m rather limited to choices here so I’m forced to either drive 600+ miles or fly to any choices I’ve found. Sadly the first two are from used car lots (Colorado and L.A. respectively). The last one private party in Santa Clarita, CA.

The first two carfax reports seem clean – the 2002 has had 6 owners which seems like a lot, but a good amount of service record reports from RR dealers (inc. new oil pan gasket, rear seal, 02 sensor, A/F meter). The 2000 has had 2 owners via the carfax report but no mention of service.

My questions are rather basic – what to look for when buying.

I’ve read on the forum regarding leaking heater o-rings, and ensuring the coolant system is up to par. Not to mention air suspension. But are there any other trouble spots I should pay attention to? I come from the Saab & Jeep world and do 95% of the work myself so I suppose I’m saying I’m relatively mechanically inclined.

It’s been quite difficult trying to get as much info as I can via phone and then determining if it’s worth a $250+ flight to take a chance as I’m only available to do so on weekends.

Any tips/info greatly appreciated.
 

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Congratulations on your caution. I'm a bit partial to visiting a potential car buy at a private owner's home. That way, you can have a better feel for how they take care of their things, beyond the car in question. They may also have access to service records that they had forgotten to mention. Most P38As also have a few "Service Campaign" stickers under the hood to indicate the responsive owner's recall history. A good car often comes from a good owner with a good home.

Best wishes on a good selection. We need good people like you in this confederation.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Appreciate the tips.

Is there a big difference between the 4.0 and 4.6, other than the obvious hp and torque?
 

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I would follow the advise given to you by holland&holland120. Also, I would checkout the sticky and run some self checks while youre there. That'll tell you something about it on the spot. The difference between the 4.0 and the 4.6 outside horsepower and torque is the 4.6HSE comes with all the upgrades inside and out. Coming from someone who has owned both, the 4.6 is a better drive on long distance, going up hills, and much funnier offroading. Just my two cents, but don't forget to perform those self test and research the main page under 4.0/4.6 so you can ask informed question before you buy!!!!!
 

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Discussion Starter #5
jonboi002 said:
The difference between the 4.0 and the 4.6 outside horsepower and torque is the 4.6HSE comes with all the upgrades inside and out. Coming from someone who has owned both, the 4.6 is a better drive on long distance, going up hills, and much funnier offroading. Just my two cents, but don't forget to perform those self test and research the main page under 4.0/4.6 so you can ask informed question before you buy!!!!!
Good to know. The reason I ask is I came a cross a PP original owner 1998 4.0 w/71K in pristine condition. The owner was nice enough to fax me service receipts.
 

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One offense to the 4.0 owners but If you have a choice get the 4.6. Drives better, you can actually accelerate up a hill and has a better resale value. 4.0's seem to be very hard to sell.

Don't let the mileage fool you. Keep in mind the low mileage RR's have not reached some of the common fail points and when you buy them YOU will be responsible for taking care of all those repairs that have already been done on a higher 100k + mileage RR. Otherwise there wouldn't be that many miles on them. For a 10+ year old vehicle I prefer the ones that have been driven and used and repaired versus one that has just been sitting around where seals dry up along with the many rubber pieces and hoses.
 

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I would strongly recommend disregarding dealers. For one you will pay much much more than you should and there are truly no advantages what so ever to buying 10 year old vehicle from a dealer. Do your research as it sounds like you have been, look for a clean example on craigslist and go grab it. Remember the least amount you can spend the better as it allows more money for the inevitable fixes. Also I would frankly not recommend one unless you are at least somewhat handy with a wrench as repairs can be prohibitively costly. All in all though what you can get is a great vehicle thats supremely capable off road and comfy around town, and have spent 4-8K on it. As far as 4.0 vs. 4.6, I have a 4.0 and it suits me just fine, this truck is not quick in any guise and frankly its not necessary for it to be if your using it properly. I would however recommend getting a 99 or newer as the Bosch versions seem to be a bit better and they have 4 wheel traction control. Good luck and good hunting!
 

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I am also shopping for a RR in Los Angeles area (I prefer the RR's pull-down trunk lid to the Discovery's side-opener). Several reputable indie shops told me to go with the 4.0 because 4.6 engine is prone to bad gasket covers. Also the air suspension-to-coil conversion is a big money saver for the new unsuspecting owner.
So I am looking for a 1996-2000 RR with 4.0 engine and coil springs @slightly north of 100k mi. My budget is $4000-6000.
 

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You shouldn't have a problem finding a 4.0 over 100k for $4-$6K.

There is no shortage of RRs out there. People are dumping these vehicles due to prohibitive repair costs. But if you are handy, you can fix most everything with reference to this forum or main site. Understand that parts are expensive even if you do your own work.

I also agree with H&H above. I would never buy a RR from a dealer. It most likely came from an auction or someone who just dumped the truck because there are too many problems. I looked at a few RRs at dealers just to get a feel if I wanted one and they were all beat up, ran like crap and the interiors were banged up. Find a person who has owned it for awhile and can give you a good history. You want to meet the owner and get a feel for how they took care of it. I also would shy away from any 20 inch rim bling-bling trucks. Those owners tend to buy if for show, but a bunch of electronics in it and don't pay for scheduled maintenance. You don't want a truck with a bunch of aftermarket electronics in it. These trucks are electronically fickle. I would agree that the overall costs of coils is cheaper, but I sure like the ride of the EAS intact.

Take your time. Don't pay KBB prices. Get 99 or newer for Bosch management.

Good luck.
 

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1999 Range Rover 4.0 SE (FOR SALE)
1999 Lexus LX470 (FOR SALE)
1990 Range Rover (FOR SALE)



hmmm :think:


plan on getting something interesting???
 

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I might be eyeing something interesting....

But the major issue is that there are more cars to that list:

2008 Mercedes E550
2005 Audi A4 Avant
2004 Mercedes CLK 500
2003 Porsche 911 C4S
1972 Volvo P1800
1960 Chevrolet Corvette

And I REALLY don't have the space.
 

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How can you tell if a '99 is a Bosch or not? Can you tell by the VIN ?


spikemd said:
You shouldn't have a problem finding a 4.0 over 100k for $4-$6K.

Take your time. Don't pay KBB prices. Get 99 or newer for Bosch management.

Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Ok so I found a very clean 02 HSE w/84K a short drive away to me as opposed to a long flight away. Nice history of good service. Owner says the stereo does not work due to amp. I've read here some issues with amps, but is there a way to tell?
 
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