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Discussion Starter #1
So what does it mean when you touch the brake pedal and the three lights eluminate momentarily in the lower left corner of the dash board????? Just bought the truck and there is so much to learn.... Thank you again for any assistance.

Don't suppose anybody on the board w/ mechanical experience lives in the Tampa area? (Maybe Tarpon Springs?)
 

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What year is your rover? Could be a pressure switch, accumulator, abs pump, or a abs sensor. What I am thinking it is, is very BAD. I won't let you know what that is until I know what year. :)
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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I had the same thing, but only occasionally, and then followed by "Traction" or "ABS" fault in the display.

Changed the accumulator and now ok.

but also wait other replies before jumping in.
 

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I had very similar problem, ABS and TC light would come on soon as I touched the brake pedal, I tracked it back to a faulty Brake light switch, (was pretty easy really, had no brake lights)
 

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Discussion Starter #5
lrscott said:
What year is your rover? Could be a pressure switch, accumulator, abs pump, or a abs sensor. What I am thinking it is, is very BAD. I won't let you know what that is until I know what year. :)
1999 4.0
 

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Discussion Starter #7
kmagnuss said:
most likely it's your accumulator going out.
Is there an easy way to finish diagnosing? Is the accumulator easy to change out? Brakes seem to work fine right now but should I worry that they will just quit working?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
lrscott said:
What year is your rover? Could be a pressure switch, accumulator, abs pump, or a abs sensor. What I am thinking it is, is very BAD. I won't let you know what that is until I know what year. :)
I am going to take a look at the Accumulator tomorrow. Sounds like the best thing is to listen to see how long the pump runs w/ ignition in the second position.
lscott, what did you think was the potential issue?
Lots of little things on this truck to look at to see if they are easily fixed or not.
1. Liscense plate light is finicky. You tap it and it comes back on...
2. Front windshield washer does not pump but the rear one does, is there two pumps?
3. Suspension was converted to shocks but all the lights still light up like there is an error w/ the suspension....
 

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2002-2005 Range Rover MkIII / L322
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bmwmotogreg said:
2. Front windshield washer does not pump but the rear one does, is there two pumps?
3. Suspension was converted to shocks but all the lights still light up like there is an error w/ the suspension....

2. No, there are not two pumps. (hint...this is a trick answer)
3. The suspension came with shocks from the factory. 3 b... do a search for how to fix that. It's a matter of hooking up two wires and you're good to go.
 

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lscott, what did you think was the potential issue?
Well, is it a gems or bosch? lol If it is gems. If gems, I would be concerned about that plastic washer in the modulator is wearing out and one day you will not have brakes when it finally fails. There is a quick fix for it from someone on the forums, the kit replaces the weak plastic piece with a metal one. Tell tale signs are unusual braking behavior. If it is a bosch, then it is most likely something else.
 

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JACK'S GRANDAD
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wow, must be some bad vibes in florida tonight... :lol:

OP, what are your brakes like first thing in the morning after the rig has been sat overnight?
if they are pretty much non existent, swap the accumulator IMHO.
i guess you mean it has coils? if so the eas ecm is under the drivers seat, have a look at dennis' site to see how to make the error message go away for good www.rover-renovations.com
the lights are more than likely a bad connection if they work when tapped. remove the bulb and clean them up.
there are 3 pumps on the washer bottle. headlamp, front and rear. you will have to see if a wire is loose or its a bad pump.

martin
 

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Discussion Starter #12
leftlanetruckin said:
wow, must be some bad vibes in florida tonight... :lol:

OP, what are your brakes like first thing in the morning after the rig has been sat overnight?
if they are pretty much non existent, swap the accumulator IMHO.
i guess you mean it has coils? if so the eas ecm is under the drivers seat, have a look at dennis' site to see how to make the error message go away for good http://www.rover-renovations.com
the lights are more than likely a bad connection if they work when tapped. remove the bulb and clean them up.
there are 3 pumps on the washer bottle. headlamp, front and rear. you will have to see if a wire is loose or its a bad pump.

martin
Will look next weekend to see the make of the brakes. The brakes are just fine. This truck sits for days w/o use and there really does not seem to be a difference in how it brakes first thing vs later in the day.

Cleaned the bulb connection and that seems to be addressed!
 

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JACK'S GRANDAD
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good news on the bulb!
a common sign of accumulator failure is bad brakes after sitting.
another issue that chris had was the abs,traction control etc lights all lighting up when he had been sitting at a red light for a while.
accumulator cured it.
it may need the modulator valve fixed, i have also done this as a precautionary measure. cheap insurance if you ask me...

martin
 

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Discussion Starter #14
leftlanetruckin said:
good news on the bulb!
a common sign of accumulator failure is bad brakes after sitting.
another issue that chris had was the abs,traction control etc lights all lighting up when he had been sitting at a red light for a while.
accumulator cured it.
it may need the modulator valve fixed, i have also done this as a precautionary measure. cheap insurance if you ask me...

martin
Modulator valve fixed or replaced? Easy/expensive job? If this is a cheap, "try it and it might take care of the problem" solution then I am all in....
 

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JACK'S GRANDAD
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for the modulator, the kit is cheap. put aside a full day for it though.
here is the kit i am talking about
http://www.rover-renovations.com/Brake- ... mr-kit.htm
besides the kit, you will need a gallon of dot4 brake fluid. well maybe not a whole gallon but a lot for a regular truck! :lol:
as i said, i did as a precautionary measure after reading this thread:
viewtopic.php?f=3&t=23569
mine is a 1998, so i did it, but depending on when yours was made will be the deciding factor. i would pm the author of that thread and ask his opinion. he is a super nice guy and extremely helpful. i got my kit directly from him as dennis had not started selling them at that point.

martin
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Not having a whole lot of luck w/ the truck but I could not work on it this weekend due to a strong head cold. Feeling better now but wil have to wait until this weekend to play around w/ the p38. How long should the little electric motor/pump under the accumulator run? When the key is in the second position (maybe the third) the pump will run for one second every 60 seconds or so. Is this normal or does this just point more towards an accumulator replacement?
 

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Hi

Yes you have hit the nail on the head. The function of the accumulator is that there is a rubber bag filled with nitrogen gas when new preloaded at 80 bar.
Your pump pumps to around 200 bar. During this pumping up the nitrogen is compressed until the 200 bar is reached and the pump shuts off. This charging process takes 30 to 40 seconds or so. When you press the brake oil starts flowing and this means oil from the supply system is being lost. The accumulators rubber bag expands and pushes the oil out while keeping the system pressurised. If the accumulator fails the compression of the nitrogen is not possible and the pressure will shoot up so the pump shuts off very quickly after start but the pressure is lost quickly as well and this loss of pressure triggers the warning lights notifying you that there is not enough pressure in the system. You might not feel this under normal braking but it will make a difference if you have to do an emergency stop.

That the pump starts every minute for a second is an indication that there is a slight oil leak in your system, most likely the non return valve in the pump. Operation of the pump without an accumulator is not good for the pump due to the extreme pressure shocks and frequent start stop behavior. It can cause the pump motor to overheat and burn out.

Your system will probably be ok after the fitting of a new accumulator. You might want to listen to your pump closely after the exchange and the sound must be smooth and the pump slows down when it is reaching the higher pressure. This is normal as the power to be delivered is higher with higher pressure.
Noisy pump can be caused by air in the system or worn out carbon brushes that do not evenly supply electric power to the collector of the motor.

Regards

Jos
 

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Discussion Starter #18
leftlanetruckin said:
i guess you mean it has coils? if so the eas ecm is under the drivers seat, have a look at dennis' site to see how to make the error message go away for good http://www.rover-renovations.com
I have looked a few times over but have not found the answer..... could someone please send a link as to how to address this "issue". (Probably the least of my concerns but it would be nice to cross one off of the list....)
 
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