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Hello all, I sold my 02 RR in a moment of weakness (or clarity) last week. And I miss it a hell of a lot, for a lump of aluminum, steel and plastic.

After moving this summer to an area without even an independent LR mechanic, I had a number of RR problems that simply added up to an untenable situation for me. I will give a run down of what happened to perhaps enlighten someone out there in a similary situation or stimulate a discussion of these issues amongst the more able DIYers on rangerovers.net

Three years ago, I had the heater core and o-rings replaced under warranty.
About two years ago, the vehicle locked me out. At the time the dealer was only 3 miles away and a new battery was placed.
A year ago, one remote stopped working. The button on the key fob would light up the led as per normal, but wasn't being recognized by the vehicle. At the time I thought the remote was bad, and proceeded to use the other functional remote. (I found out recently from the dealer that the remote was fully functional.)
Also for the past year I was having intermittent 0446,1176, and 0440 OBD codes (evap emissions errors) being thrown quite frequently. Changing the air filter got rid of the 1176 code, but the other two remained rather frequent. No discernible vacuum leaks.
Six months ago, I developed another O-ring (or heater core--never found out which) leak, this time pretty minimal at first unless the heater was on full blast. Picked this up as coolant was being lost with some regularity. Thus kept the AC on all summer until I could get the replacement job done myself.
A few months ago, the hydraulic brake booster burned out after a bad ABS relay failed to switch off. SInce there was no LR mechanic around, I repaired this myself with a new assembly. The repair went well as far as the ABS system was concerned. Pump and accumulator functioned perfectly and the truck reset its ABS and traction faults. However, now neither remote worked (remote locking stopped working). I (falsely) assumed the second remote, the one I had been using after the other one went out of commission, had finally bit the dust. Thinking this could be battery related, I had the local AutoZone check it out, their equipment gave the 2 year old battery the thumbs up. Since the key itself worked, I continued to use the truck until I could get to a dealership.
One month ago, just prior to revisiting a distant dealership, I took the vehicle on an off-road jaunt with a couple buddies. We went off for a few hours in another vehicle one day, and wouldn't you know it, the alarm decided to arm itself. Of course neither remote could do anything. 48 hours and $1700 later, the dealer replaced the two year old battery and the drivers door latch, telling me both remotes work fine.
One week before selling it, had an ABS and TC fault after starting on a particularly cold morning. Turned the truck off and restarted; faults still present. They reset themselves as I started to drive forward, though.

Noticed about this time cottage cheese like oil deposited beneath the water pump seal. Make mental note to self on another repair to be done.

4 days before selling it, the remote again failed to disarm the alarm. Waited about a minute and retried, this time it worked. At this point I was certain that another lockout was immanent, and without any nearby testbook being available, it would certainly be another costly event. Made arrangements to sell the rover.

I had hoped to keep the 02 Rangie forever, but the reality of the situation was that the closed ecm coding system makes this vehicle next to impossible to keep running any significant distance from a testbook. At least that is my conclusion. Also, my continuing symptoms after battery replacement suggested to me a bad BECM ready to give me more grief. In my mind I added up the cost of the sure-to-fail BECM, new heater core, water pump seal, towing fees to the nearest dealer two hours away, etc., and realized that I was very nearly going to pay out more in the next year than the truck was worth. When I thought it over, I realized even if a testbook were nearby, the costs of my expected repairs would be prohibitive.

I sure miss the feeling of driving my rover both on and off road. It is a shame I could not keep this one running. I would like to own one again, maybe a mkIII. But it will have to be under warranty next time.

Thank you to all of you great guys who helped me with advice over the years. So long, for now. And best of luck to you all.



(PS I have a spare, brand new (unopened box from British Parts of Utah) ABS relay, my old ABS pump {I assume burnt out} and accumulator, and a pair of new unopened OEM heater core O-rings; PM me with BO if interested in this stuff.)
 

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Sorry to hear that you've decided to sell your Rover.

Surprised that you would give up, after doing the ABS work yourself. Quite honestly, I think you've just had a key synch problem. If you've manually locked your keys, you probably could have gotten away w/o much repair. Anyhow, I can't believe that anyone would charge $1,700 for door latch repair. Parts are like $100-200 and the job is pretty simple.

Good luck to you, and hope you find a good Rover soon, whether it be another P38 or a MkIII.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
TheoR said:
I can't believe that anyone would charge $1,700 for door latch repair.

Sorry if I was unclear. $1700 after off-road extraction/towing, battery, door latch, labor. AAA does not pay for off road towing. Dealer bill was ~$1000.
 

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Bummer dude. As a new owner of a 96 SE, thanks for scaring the sh*t out of me with your story. :)

I understand your feelings though, once you lose confidence in a vehicle it can be difficult to re-establish that trust. I've sold some of my SAABs in the past because they just seemed haunted. Took about a year before I would buy another. You'll be back.
 
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