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Finally found that annoying rattle eh?

`) `)
 

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2006-2009 Range Rover Sport
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The mysterious front end rattle--solved?

I like to take mine off after river crossings and look for tiny flecks of gold.

A bit off-topic, but has anyone color-coded theirs?
 

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2006-2009 Range Rover Sport
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gooseyloosey said:
The mysterious front end rattle--solved?

I like to take mine off after river crossings and look for tiny flecks of gold.

A bit off-topic, but has anyone color-coded theirs?
Managed to get an ounce together yet??? :D :D

Why in fact...yes, someone has color coded (the real skid plate), but done in black rhino lining!!!
 

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Discussion Starter #5
It started out as a way to prep for an oil change... but I can't imagine that trucking around a pound of gravel is a good thing. Also trying to locate and annoying squeak that I get when the front suspension compresses. With all the wet/mud offroading lately I think it's dried out some of my bushings or somethin...
 

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PJPR01 said:
Why in fact...yes, someone has color coded (the real skid plate), but done in black rhino lining!!!
Oh thank goodness its black, if you had a cairns blue rhino linered skid plate, I would say this has gone too far. Way too far. ;)

Drevs, if you want to start a squeak pool, I'd like to cast a vote for the swaybar bushings. They always seem to be #1 on my cars.

Speaking of lightening, last time I looked at my skid plate a few months ago, I noticed only 6 of the ten bolts actually in place. Seems like my dealer has been lightening mine all by hizself.
 

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Drevs said:
It started out as a way to prep for an oil change... but I can't imagine that trucking around a pound of gravel is a good thing. Also trying to locate and annoying squeak that I get when the front suspension compresses. With all the wet/mud offroading lately I think it's dried out some of my bushings or somethin...
Eric...some interesting news on this. Gerald's LR3 had an annoying squeak as well when raising and lowering, turned out not to be the sway bar bushings, but the actual bolts on either side of the bottom of the A-arms if I recall correctly, which have some sort of rubber bushing on them as well. I don't have pictures, but I can ask him to check exactly which parts were replaced.
 

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LEGACY VENDOR
2006-2009 Range Rover Sport
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I attempted to have my oil changed at a local Pennzoil, and they were unable to remove the front skidplate bolts. The cheap quiknuts corroded and snapped, resulting in the bolts spinning. It was only after quite a rig-a-marole that I was able to remove the bolts; I'm not sure if I want the skidplates on (because I don't offroad).

Anyone think these plates can be left off?
 

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LIFETIME CONTRIBUTOR
2006-2009 Range Rover Sport
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My front suspensions are starting to sound like old mattress springs over bumps. I can hear the squealing with my windows open at low speeds, and even when parked if I jump over my sliders to make the suspensions compress... But only after having driven for a while, which makes me think something dilates with friction and causes the squeak and squeal to start. I'll get it checked and report back.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
gooseyloosey said:
if you had a cairns blue rhino linered skid plate, I would say this has gone too far. Way too far. ;)
Umm, uh... let hope nobody has access to Paul's Photobucket acct! I seem to remember a Cairns Blue iteration.

Thanks for the advice re: the squeaks. Umberto my truck sounds like the dirty motel mattress you're describing. I went over all the moving joints with some WD-40 to try and trouble shoot. It didn't do anything immediately, but I'm wondering if letting it penetrate overnight will help. I'll have to check it out on my way home today.

You can leave your skidplate off no prob. Mine will probably be off all week until I get it into the local quickie lube joint. Just don't high center on any boulders. :thumb:

FYI, I've also removed that silly engine cover contraption. The last thing a Roots (or any style, really) blower needs is an insulation blanket.

Do any of you replace your drain plug when you change your oil? I have a new one ready to swap in, but seems kinda overkill.
 

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Drevs said:
gooseyloosey said:
if you had a cairns blue rhino linered skid plate, I would say this has gone too far. Way too far. ;)
Umm, uh... let hope nobody has access to Paul's Photobucket acct! I seem to remember a Cairns Blue iteration.

Thanks for the advice re: the squeaks. Umberto my truck sounds like the dirty motel mattress you're describing. I went over all the moving joints with some WD-40 to try and trouble shoot. It didn't do anything immediately, but I'm wondering if letting it penetrate overnight will help. I'll have to check it out on my way home today.

You can leave your skidplate off no prob. Mine will probably be off all week until I get it into the local quickie lube joint. Just don't high center on any boulders. :thumb:

FYI, I've also removed that silly engine cover contraption. The last thing a Roots (or any style, really) blower needs is an insulation blanket.

Do any of you replace your drain plug when you change your oil? I have a new one ready to swap in, but seems kinda overkill.
Now...that's a malicious rumour you're starting there! As far as oil plug, yeah, I change it every 3 oil changes...
 

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2006-2009 Range Rover Sport
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Eric, just as a follow up my indy shop has determined my squeaky front suspensions - when hot - are caused by the front sway bar bushings. He needs to remove them and coat them with silicone grease, he said spraying the bushes from the sides with some WD40 would do very little to eliminate the annoying squeal. Removing the bushings is a bit involving since you need to loosen the sway bar, remove undershield and front axle crossmember to get to the clamps. Sounds like a PITA (1.5 to 2 hrs labor is his estimate), he'll put her on a rack and do it tomorrow. Because of the electronically controlled sway bars on your S/C, this diagnosis probably won't help you much, though.
 

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2006-2009 Range Rover Sport
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Umberto,
I'd be interested in your mechanic's opinion of changing the swaybar bushings to greaseable poly bushings. Also is your squeek coming from the end link bushing or the sway bar bushing? I used to use these on my track car, and it was nice to have the zerk fitting to be able to pump is some grease once in a while. Poly bushings by themselves are squeekier than rubber, but the ability to grease them as needed was able to compensate.

Here's a LR article,
http://www.landroverclub.net/Club/HTML/PU_bushes.htm

The ones I used came from these guys,
http://www.energysuspension.com/products/Sway-Bar-End-Link-Bushings.html

I'm not sure what size LR's are and these guys may not even have one that fits but that's another issue.
 

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Goosey, according to him the squeal is from the sway bar bushings and some silicone lube will do the trick (we'll see.) But, good point about the material, as a matter of fact when we were talking about the ongoing problem of the premature wear of these babies in newer Land Rovers such as RR, LR3 and RRS, my former indy shop guy was complaining about Land Rover's insistence in using soft bushings with a rubber core everywhere, as opposed to more durable poly material, for the sake of a cushier ride on the road, but at the expense of longevity (especially with all the torsion going on off road...) Companies such as Atlantic British sell entire kits of polyurethane bushings for our cars, you even get to pick the degree of "stiffness"! http://www.roverparts.com/Parts/8937.cfm - Definitely something to think about, even though I imagine even the "softest" poly bushes would likely affect ride quality somewhat (compared to stock.)
 

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Yes, if you go w the full poly kit, I agree, the ride deteriorates. But I'm thinking I might take a stab at just the poly swaybar bushings with grease fittings when I face the day of reckoning, I just didn't know if anyone has tried this yet.

In fact, if anyone is handy with the welder (Drevs?) I've heard of guys stabbing in grease fittings on the OEM clamps, & drilling a small hole radially in the OEM bushing so they can lubricate the OEM bushings w/o taking them off.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Thanks for the info guys. I will go after the inner swaybar bushings with my trusty WD40 and see if I can at least locate the culprit. My swaybars have that big hydraulic contraption in the middle, so they're kinda unique.
Ironically, I just read an article about retrofitting Zerk fittings into mountain bike suspension joints, so I bet it's possible with the truck too. You just drill the appropriate sized hole and bang in the Zerk; it's a pressure fit.... No TIG necessary! May have to experiment with that if I can't get it done with an easier method.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
umbertob said:
Eric, just as a follow up my indy shop has determined my squeaky front suspensions - when hot - are caused by the front sway bar bushings.
My driveway analysis has determined the same thing. My WD-40 technique has helped tone down the dirty mattress noise, but it's still there. Is there a .pdf on how to get those sway bar bushings out? I gave it a quick try and bolts are tighter than doodoo and access is tough. Figured I'd poll the oracle before going any further.
 

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umbertob said:
Eric, see attachment.

Drevs said:
umbertob said:
Eric, just as a follow up my indy shop has determined my squeaky front suspensions - when hot - are caused by the front sway bar bushings.
My driveway analysis has determined the same thing. My WD-40 technique has helped tone down the dirty mattress noise, but it's still there. Is there a .pdf on how to get those sway bar bushings out? I gave it a quick try and bolts are tighter than doodoo and access is tough. Figured I'd poll the oracle before going any further.
As usual Umberto to the rescue. Thanks.

Is it the same for the DR equipped?--that swaybar looks solid. Anyhoo, you shouldn't have to remove the swaybar completely as per the instructions Edit: I see you added the DR instructions after I posted this---looks like Drevs is going to the dealer for the special tool. /:(

I'll add my $0.02.

FWIW this is based on my experience with the E30 M3 BMW. I got good at this after the 3rd time, after which I went to greaseable poly bushings.

You remove the end link bolts on both ends of the swaybar first. Btw, check those endlink bushings for cracks and wear while you have them out replacing those if needed. You can buy whole endlinks with the bushings pressed in if you want to avoid the whole pressing in experience.

Next tackle the swaybar bushing clamp bolts. As you noticed, those bolts can be tough to get to and loosen up due to grime--use a bit of penetrating oil on them and then go at them. Looks like the RRS has two bolts per bushing--some cars have one with a tab on the other side. Either way that clamp comes off, and you may need to use a prybar/screwdriver to get the whole thing to drop off. Do one side then the other.

Once that's all off, you can slide the rubber swaybar bushing over and pry it off. I replaced the bushing and metal clamp together and did not reuse the clamps. And put some thick non-petroleum based grease(I used brake grease) between the bushing and clamp face.

On the install, sometimes getting the clamp over the new bushing and the second screw back in the hole is tough since the new bushing has never been compressed.
 
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