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Discussion Starter #1
I blew the head gaskets on my 87 rrc and ive never done head gaskets before.... anyone want to shed some light on the difficulty of doing this i'd prefer not to take it to a shop because im a full time student so my cash flow isnt that great lol thanks in advance
 

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Buddy…I’m in the same boat with my 1995 4.2 (sort of, except probably with better cash flow). There is plenty of information on this site and the job seems pretty straightforward; get a manual (RAVE manual is helpful, search the site, it’s downloadable, Haynes manual, etc), order the parts and go to it.

Keeping in mind that I also have never done it; here is my personal plan of attack:

1. Visually inspect the left bank through the oil-filler spout using a flashlight and whatever else might help you take a good look (I used an old dental mirror). I read a nice “quick-and-dirty” reference (here or on some other site, can’t remember) that made sense: One extreme was “clear and bright” suggesting a new engine and the other extreme was “black and sludgy” suggesting beyond repair. In between were light, medium and dark brown without sludge suggesting various stages of salvage-ability. Mine was medium brown, nice patina, no sludge at 150k miles.

2. Perform a compression test (read up on how to do it, you’re a student, right? I got a nice tool at Harbor Freight for $20) because there is no use doing the top-end if the bottom-end is shot. My own cut-off was 150 psi per cylinder with no more variance than 10% among each cylinder. I got some funky readings (see my post earlier this week “Please help me interpret my compression test”, which no one, save one guy, would comment on) but have decided to go ahead and do it.

3. As long as you’re going to all the trouble, you should consider replacing the cam (apparently notorious for wearing out at less than 100k miles), which means the lifters as well and also the timing set (chain and two sprockets, cam and crank, relatively cheap). There are various gaskets (in addition to the head gaskets themselves) plus new bolts, you’ll have to decide between composite and tin gaskets (I think your year is the low-compression, but check this out on the site before making this decision).

I have priced out the parts and the best I can do domestically is around $750 including the horrendous 9.75% California state sales tax (http://www.britishpacific.com in Valencia, California, whom I have been buying from for years, no shipping, I pick up my parts) and this does not include machining and rebuilding the heads themselves for which I will not pay more than $450 apiece because http://www.atlanticbritish.com sells complete heads for $450 apiece net of the core charge.

I’m a complete amateur and am willing to pay for my mistakes in terms of the learning experience (and fun/satisfaction factor) of doing it myself. You’ll have to make your own decision on whether it’s worth it to fix what amounts to a vehicle that may be worth $2k when it’s running well. Again, I caution, I’m totally in over my head on this and I’m certain there will be people on this site who will punch holes in my analysis (which I welcome) so don’t take this as gospel.

Cheers,
Bob
 

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Discussion Starter #3
well this is looking bleak for me i might end up just selling so if any of you guys on here want dibs let me know!
 

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Again I emphasize, I've never done this before so I might be FOS (not intentionally, but only from lack of knowlege). From my point of view, there is a value in keeping it running that goes beyond the "market" value of the truck. I love my Range Rover and so am willing to spend money that may be better spent elsewhere to keep it running. In my opinion, these are not yet "classic" in the sense of having intrinsic value as a collectible; it will probably take years from this to happen and, even then, there are so many around (world-wide) that there may never be a real collector's market. If you are trying to put together a true "daily driver", my own opinion is that a Range Rover is not the best choice.

Again, I emphasize to you, Mr. Modjunkie, search this site regarding "doing the heads" and see what you come up with...You can always spend multiple hours (you can decide what your time is worth) doing the job half-right for half-price and maybe you'll get a year or two out of the vehicle which may be all you need.

Good luck and good night.

Bob
 

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Discussion Starter #5
its been a PITA from day one im losing interest fast thats the problem.... the drive home from the purchase lost the waterpump....after i fixed the waterpump the radiator went... im just a lil burnt out.... plus im probably gonna have to get the heads resurfaced because of warping if there is any and thats another arm and a leg lol
 

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I recently did the heads on my RRC for the first time and it's a pretty easy job so there is some light at the end of the tunnel. I went really slowly and labeled everything up as I removed it and took loads of photos and it took me about a days work actually on the car and several late nights in the kitchen cleaning up the heads and other components. The hardest bit was trying to refit all the exhaust manifold bolts!

I'd recommend the first thing you need to do is get hold of the rover V8 overhaul manual and the relevant range rover workshop manual, you can download them off the net. They're really useful and tell you the correct sequence to remove and re-install the heads for both types of engine (suffix A and B), correct torques for all the bolts, etc. As Bob mentions, it's also worth doing a compression test to see where the problem lies before you start, and you'll also need a decent torque wrench.

Other than that I bought a new set of composite gaskets and exhaust gaskets, and I also replaced the valley gasket and seals and the rocker cover seals. I also picked up some Hylomar blue non setting gasket and some black RTV silicone to be used in the reassembly as per the manual. Note that if your cylinder head uses the stretch bolts you would also need a set of them as they can't be re-used. When I had the heads cleaned up I put an engineers metal ruler on them and they were true with no scorch marks on them so I didn't bother getting them faced and i've had no problems since.

One last crucial bit of advice is to make sure you label the pushrods with some tape before removing the heads, this almost caught me out! There's loads of useful advice on the forum here about cylinder heads so i'd have a good read of the posts. Good luck!!!
 

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Discussion Starter #7
well i did a once over today on my rover and i dont believe its my head gaskets... i think its my temp coolant sensor so im gonna order one and go from there!
 

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i had i small loss of water so i took mine in for the heads to be done and 500 mile later it lost all the water so now i have taken mine out and all in bits ,now it needs crank regrounding new shells top hat linners as the old ones have oveled by 6 thow,it looks like the block at the back had a small lip into the water jaket ,am just waiting for it back at a cost £1025. and thats in bits ,i have got lpg on top of all this to put back .so wot i did gat a mannul take photos from start and stick masting tape on all leads and wire so it should go back will let you no on that but give it a go the first time this happened to me cost £650 and now costing more ,its only nuts n bolts all the best with it rich :crybaby2:
 

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first try blue devil cooling system sealer, Pep Boys has it , $60 retail. I used it twice on my 4.2 over a year and a half until I could afford head gasket repair. The nice thing about this product compared to others is you just pour it in and drive, works great.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
well i traced it down it was the upper rad hose connected at the thermostat was leaking so i fixed it! thank you god! lol :clap: :clap: :clap:
 

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modjunkie said:
its been a PITA from day one im losing interest fast thats the problem.... the drive home from the purchase lost the waterpump....after i fixed the waterpump the radiator went... im just a lil burnt out.... plus im probably gonna have to get the heads resurfaced because of warping if there is any and thats another arm and a leg lol

dude you shouldnt be driving a 23 yo truck if you dont wanna spend money, junk it and buy a new honda with a payment.
 
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