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1970-1995 Range Rover Classic
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Im planning on putting a snorkel on my 92 range rover and im trying to figure out a way i can do it without messing up anything. I was thinking either rotate my air filter or cut a hole into the side and come out on the driver side of the vehicle. also for the top where im going to have the snorkel have the air come in is there any suggestions there for instance do I need to worry about rain, what position does it need to be in etc etc.

I want to make it so that i can do deep water but obviously not super deep that i need to worry. but i also want to be able to do trails and such. Its basically all stock base edition right now so any suggestions or anything to get this project going will be greatly appreciated. airintakeideas.jpg airintake.jpg
 

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1970-1995 Range Rover Classic
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How deep and how often? I've been through water that was at headlight level and not had any water pulled in. Once I even had the engine stall out in water that deep and the cab filled with about 8" of water before I managed to get it to fire up on about 4 cylinders and slowly jerk it's way out everytime the engine fired up on those.
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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What I've seen is modify the top of the air cleaner (remove the funnel bit and weld on a bit of square pipe, fit a flexible hose out a hole in the fender, and get piece of pipe bent up or else knock something up out of pvc pipe. try googling range rover water crossing - there is a you tube of a guy in western Australia taking a stock rangy through a ford with water over the bonnet. I've drowned mine, dragged it out and it fired right up also. My main approach for water is spray all the electrics and the ECU with silicon lubricant to water proof it all as best you can, and if you are more serious take off the fanbelt, or, if the motor is cool tie up the fan belt so it slips on the VC. A bigger problem if you drown it is water in the diffs, CV housings, gearbox etc depending on how good your seals and breathers are.
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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282 Posts
Some snorkel guidance from my experience for you that might help


A Tdi or other turbo diesel installed will suck like a good un, so the inlet tract can be a right old bendy shape, the V8 however is naturally aspirated - impede the air flow as little as possible – smooth tubing, gentle bends otherwise you'll kill the performance – if you need to use convoluted tubing, go up a size in pipe


Most proprietry snorkel kits do not take into account air inlet needs – they are designed to look cool and dress the car nicely – Mantec are about the only company who got it right as they had Land Rover support and development funds for the Camel trophy vehicles


If possible, whatever filter housing you chose, stick a high flow K+N type filter in, it will make up for any intake volume reduction.


A 3.5/3.9 V8 needs at least 2.5” diameter tubing to breath un-impeded – if in doubt, measure the hole in the inlet side of your standard filter housing (from the inside) – this is the size Land Rover caculated would be correct


I've fitted a Disco 200Tdi air intake housing which sits nicely on the wing and allows the snorkel to fit into it nicely – it also comes with a good sized filter and inlet/outlet sizes


Pin the snorket at the roof line and at the top of the bulkhead – stay away from drilling into the A pillars – these are weak enough when new, never mind after a few years of corrosion


The snorkel top (the mushroom ones are really good for a V8) should be lower than the roof or you'll be constantly forgetting its the highest point and knocking it off


Run the axle and transmission breathers up the side of the snorkel tube – do not end the breathers inside the snorkel or the inlet tract may vacuum the oils out


You should just get a pipe big enough between the decker and the bulkhead if you don't want to have the pipework on the outside of the car


Don't forget to block the blow off valve (funny rubber “teat” under the air filter housing) or the water will just pour in


A couple of photos for you – a stainless one I made for my 4WS (standard RJT plumbing tubing so surprisingly low cost) also a piccie of one I didn't put a snorkel on, just to show you can go quite deep without a snorkel at all :wink:

100_2299.jpg

midland boxing day 015.jpg

Also, try ACF-50 for waterproofing electrics - it's designed to stop motor bikes corroding from winter riding - it's very good at keeping the electrics dry

A shield in front of the dizzy will help, as will an electric fan instead of the viscous - you can just see what I mean in this piccie - simple but effective (ignore the other bits - got a bit carried away)

47  engine overview3.jpg
 
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