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· Registered
765 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey guys, after reviewing all the great previous diy posts on brake rotor changes, I have a few outstanding questions:
  • Do I need to apply anything to the threads of the hub retaining screws, for example: anti-seize or thread-lock? or is this screw fitted dry?
  • Does the e-brake need need to bedded/burnished if the shoes are not being replaced? If so, what is the process?
  • Is blue thread-lock used on the caliper bolts? My pads did not include new bolts so I will be reusing the existing ones.
Thanks in advance!

· Registered
765 Posts
Discussion Starter · #2 ·
OK so I combed the interweb and found some answers, maybe someone else can benefit from this:
- You should use anti-seize on the threads of the disc retaining screws. They are very prone to corrosion.
- You should use blue thread lock on the caliper bolts if you are reusing the old ones.

- I'm still NOT SURE IF you need to bed-in the rear discs after replacing them, even if the shoes are not replaced. Here are instructions I found for the previous gen RRS.

1) With the Engine running, press the brake pedal fully on and off 3 times. On the third press, hold the brake pedal down.
2) With the brake pedal still in the down position, pull the EPB switch upwards 4 times and then downwards 3 times. This must be completed within 10 seconds.
3) Your dash display will then show ‘Park Brake Bedding Cycle Active’ or something similar. If it hasn’t, then release the brake pedal and try again.
4) You need to ensure that you are on a clear piece of road or land as this procedure needs to be completed 10 times.
5) Drive at least 19mph and maximum of 29mph and then apply the EPB switch until you stop. You then need to wait for 60 seconds or drive for 1 mile (to allow the brakes to cool down before repeating the process.
Note: If you stop the engine or you drive over 30 MPH, the bedding in process will be cancelled.
6) At the end of the 10th time, the bedding in mode will automatically finish.

· Registered
765 Posts
Well, I ran into a complete STOP today while changing the rear brakes b/c I cannot retract the rear caliper. I lost all patience with F-ing JLR today. I like working on cars, I've changed brakes on every vehicle I've ever owned, and I was reduced to counting to 10 at least a half-dozen times as I tried to find my way through the labyrinthine sequence to get this job done.

-put the vehicle in extended height mode before jacking...make sure to read the manual, gotta hold that button for >3 sec.
-gotta guess where to jack the vehicle if I want to put the jack stands under the only "approved" support points.... thank god the control arms have ridges to hold the head of the floor jack.
... oh-crap the jack stands are too short, no biggie I'll put them up on blocks.
-put the tranny in N by accessing the secret door that only little girl fingers can get to.
-use the super-secret method for entering the e-brakes into "maintenance mode": {ignition on, push ebrake lever for 2 sec, then add pushing acc pedal 2 more sec, then turn ignition off and on, then release acc pedal and ebrake lever: dashbord says "maintenance mode"}
-make sure to remember to loosen the brake reservoir cap, hidden under that useless POS plastic trim cover.
- attempt to squeeze the caliper back - NOPE won't retract.
- attempt to screw the caliper back - NOPE, rotates but won't retract.
- search google - AH YES, the info I needed: only the dealer's computer can retract the ebrake.
- reverse the above 900 steps.
- Grab hard liquor.
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