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firestorm said:
hi, did your flexi plate have a drive plate buttress, like the 1 in the e-bay pic? parts are waiting for you, did u get my last pm

Hi, yes thanks I did receive the PM's. The buttress plate seems to be there but I have not done any further dismantling yet so I don't know what condition it's in - damaged or not.
I'm rather knackered after struggling with the heavy gearbox today so I won't be playing with it anymore today.

I expected the torque convertor to be able to come out rather easily but this doesn't seem to be the case - I'll have to have another look at Rave in case I've missed something - any tips on how to remove the TC?
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i take it you mean from the gearbox, i dont know, as when i bought the engine, it was already removed from the car, sorry, i'll see if i can find the flexi plate bolts and put them in the box for you aswell, do you want me to put the flywheel in there aswell, just incase you bolt holes are oval, and this is part of the problem

just a thought, may be worth removing the crank sensor, as this could get damaged when refitting the parts
 

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firestorm said:
i take it you mean from the gearbox, i dont know, as when i bought the engine, it was already removed from the car, sorry, i'll see if i can find the flexi plate bolts and put them in the box for you aswell, do you want me to put the flywheel in there aswell, just incase you bolt holes are oval, and this is part of the problem

just a thought, may be worth removing the crank sensor, as this could get damaged when refitting the parts
The flywheel is a good idea - it would be good if you could put it in the box too, thanks! I also wondered if the bolt holes are oval and causing problems. Thanks for the tip on the crankshaft sensor, I'll remove and tie it up out of the way.
Yes, I did mean removing the TC from the gearbox - I thought it would just slide off and out but it seems to be pretty tightly set in there and won't move fore or aft (it turns easily enough though).

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With a HUGE vote of thanks to Firestorm my replacement parts arrived today.
I have a question regarding various torque convertors and hopefully someone here can help out: the TC I removed from my car is marked "M19" whereas the replacement I now have is marked "T27". From what I have been able to find out it seems that the T27 flavour was used for the 4.0L and type 22 gearbox. Does anyone know if I can safely use this on my 4.6L with type 24 set-up? Externally the TC's look the same although I have not yet had a chance to measure the diameter to compare.
Many thanks in advance!
 

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I’ve now removed what was left of the flex plate – it was in 6 pieces and that’s after only around 2,000 miles. I found very clear signs that the flex plate has been in contact with the rivets on the flywheel that hold the reluctor ring in place – there are circular depressions worn into the flex plate (see pics) and some scoring on the flywheel itself that corresponds to worn/polished areas on the flex plate. To my understanding the only way that the flex plate could come into contact with the flywheel is if the torque convertor is pushing it too far – a worn TC can expand too far and maybe that’s the problem or as already suggested, if it’s badly out of balance it will wobble or follow an eccentric orbit causing the flex plate to twist? My money is on the entire TC pushing back too far as the rivet wear marks are evenly spaced and not elongated which suggests to me that the pressure on the flex plate was more or less constant and not intermittent.

So my question, has anyone ever seen such rivet contact wear signs on a flex plate? I now have a spare (used) plate that shows no such signs at all.
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Episode 4, A New Hope.

Well, the engine strip down continued today. So far, I hadn't found anything wrong but today I removed the Main Bearing caps and found that the bearings are shot. They are all in pretty poor condition which means I will begetting the crankshaft checked out thoroughly and will probably be looking at a re-grind. BTW, can anyone identify the size from this number "ERR 1765"? I have googled and searched on suppliers' websites but was unable to find that number. I know I can measure the crank to find out if its already had a re-grind but I was wondering if someone out there can identify anything from that number.

Anyway, I also removed the spigot/flywheel alignment boss from the end of the crankshaft and found the shim behind it. I haven't measured it yet but it's a tad over 2mm thick. Checking on Microcat, I find that there are 10 different thicknesses listed, all of which are descrived as being for the V8 engine. Unfortunately, Microcat doesn't offer any more information as to which thickness belongs with which set-up. I should point out that my engine is not the replacement. Here's my new theory: the engine was at some point replaced, probably just dropped in without much checking of anything. It may be that the gearbox is the original. Could it be that the replacement engine came with the wrong thickness shim? If you check my picture Nr. 2 above and look at the flexplate remains you can see the marks caused by contact with the flywheel reluctor ring rivets. I'm wondering, if the wrong shim was fitted could this cause the distance to be so far out that the flexplate is pushed from the centre and flexes causing bending and contact with the flywheel rivets? Can anyone tell me if there's a way to identify which shim thickness is correct? (they range from 1.2 to 2.1mm according to Microcat)
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LarryS said:
check page 36,37 & 38 of the Engine overhaul manual or i can post a print screen :thumb:

Excellent! Many thanks, that's just what I was looking for, I looked in RAVE before but didn't find this section.
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LarryS said:
check page 36,37 & 38 of the Engine overhaul manual or i can post a print screen :thumb:

I'd just like to check one point here, the relevant pages in RAVE talk about refitting the flex plate "assembly" in order to carry out this distance measurement test - I assume that by "assembly" they mean including the flywheel? (sorry for a numpty question but I want to be 100% sure I get this right)
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i have a separate overhaul manual too but in the final RAVE version those pages are 41,42 & 43, (apologies for any confusion) I dont know your engine type/year or serial number so can't give specific info but i think i is from where the guy's thumb is to the block, hope that is of some help.
 

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Thanks Larry, that picture helps. That's a flywheel/Flexplate from a THOR engine, I have a GEMS (1996 build) but I get the idea now. Cheers, Jason
 

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ONe thing to remember is that there are different versions of RAVE floating around. It's always best to post a chapter and section reference along with a repair code reference vs page numbers.
 

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I've been doing some more looking into this shim thickness theory. According to RAVE, engines from number 46D00451A do not have the shim system. My engine (which is a replacement - not the original for my car) has engine number 46D17161A - which I interpret to mean much later than the number noted above and thus shouldn't have the shim at all.
From previous examination of the failed flexplate and a close inspection of the flywheel I measured how much the flexplate would have had to have been deflected to come into contact with the flywheel as is evident from scoring on the flywheel (see pictures loaded earlier in this thread showing round marks on the remains of the flexplate). At that time I calculated that the flexplate must have been pushed back - or rather forward up against the flywheel by about 2mm (on the outer areas of the plate). At that time the only thing I could suggest that could actually force the flexplate forwards up against the flywheel would be the torque convertor. It did not occur to me that the reverse might be the case - the centre part of the flexplate being pushed backwards towards the gearbox with corresponding flexing of the plate forwards to the flywheel. Now, the only thing that could cause that would be if the crankshaft were too long or if the adaptor boss were not set up correctly.
Today I measured accurately the thickness of the spacing shim I found behind the adaptor boss when I dismantled the crankshaft assembly - guess how thick it is.....yep, 2mm exactly.

So, firstly, would anyone have knowledge of whether my engine should in fact not have any such spacer shim fitted? (My knowledge of RAVE is growing but I am by no means an expert user). Obviously the proof of the pudding will be upon reassembly where I can measure the gap between block and flexplate correctly - although RAVE (Page 38) says such a check is not necessary for engines following number 46D00451A which mine does.
 

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i think you've pretty much got it, assemble it and make sure the flexplate -when installed- isn't put under any bending stress also making sure the TC stays back.
 
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