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RPM, my sound is totally different, it is a slight rattling/knocking sound which goes away as I rev it up or put it in gear. The sound seems to be coming from arong the oilpan/flywheel area. Any suggestions anyone ? Tryng to get a sound clip on here.
 

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More problems with the FLexplate now chaps. You'll see that I added a "closure" post to say I'd had the problem solved, well after around one month and maybe 3,000 miles it happened again. This time I took it to some proper specialists and had them have a look, they confirmed that the flexplate was failing and they showed me the bits that were left of it after they'd finished replacing it. I asked them to check to see if there was something that might be causing this problem, they didn't report that they'd found anything.
Now, one week and only around 1,500 miles later it's failing again - it makes the same clunking noise on idle as has happened the last two times I've experienced this problem.

I'm a bit miffed (to say the least) but before I check another load of money at the car and get it replaced for the third time for me (PO told me that he'd had it replaced shortly before I bought the car which would mean it's failed 4 times in around 9 months) I really need to know what is causing the flexplate to fail. Has anyone had similar experience and know of a common or root cause of failure? I'm stumped for ideas as to what's causing this repeated failure.

Thanks in advance for your help.

PS, since I'm skint now becuase of paying for this repair twice I will be doing the next repair myself - anyone have any scary horror stories or helpful tips? I have the full RAVE CD's with the proper procedures and I have a pretty well equipped tool set in the garage including ramps, jacks, stands etc.
 

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Discussion Starter #24
When my flex plate failed I replaced the flywheel too.
Basically the bolts that go through the flex plate to the flywheel had caused the holes in the flywheel to ovalise and become enlarged.

I am pretty sure that had I not replaced the flywheel as well the problem would have come back.

Don't know if that could cause your recurrence??
 

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With that frequency of failures, I would suspect either an alignment or balance issue. Maybe the bearings in the gearbox/torque-convertor, are out of position or out of true. Maybe the torque convertor is out of balance. Maybe where the bellhousing connects on each side is not in correct alignment, causing stress on the mountings/flex-plate.
 

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When it was previously replaced, the flywheel was supposed to have been replaced too - the latest repair people remarked that they didn't think that the flywheel was a new one though - possibly I got ripped off.
I've also wondered about alignment or balance issues - I have a slightly out of balance front wheel but I doubt it would cause this sort of problem - I do think though that an out of alignment or balance issue in the gearbox would cause it. Hmmmmm......time for a replacement gearbox maybe?
 

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argonaut said:
Hmmmmm......time for a replacement gearbox maybe?
I would try to borrow/test another torque-convertor before going for changing the gearbox. By the sounds of things, you wouldn't have to wait for long to know whether the issue reared it's head again.. :(
 

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paul.adshead said:
argonaut said:
Hmmmmm......time for a replacement gearbox maybe?
I would try to borrow/test another torque-convertor before going for changing the gearbox. By the sounds of things, you wouldn't have to wait for long to know whether the issue reared it's head again.. :(

Thanks Paul, I will set about removing the gearbox and have a look at the torque convertor, I've got a replacement lined up to try, hopefully that will cure this problem, I'll post results.
 

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Well, I'm now getting close to making a start on the repair of my P38, this has taken a while as I've been very busy and also skint - meaning having to save some pennies for repair bits and pieces. Today I found something on eBay that made me wonder: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Drive-Plate-Buttr ... 5180e8ad5e

A drive plate buttress? The listing is for a Disco V8 but I wonder whether the P38 does or should have this or whether it's a good idea or not? Anyone have any idea about this? I couldn't find it in my RAVE stuff. The question really is whether I should consider buying this and reinforcing my plate assembly. I will be replacing the torque converter as the latest theory after speaking with a transmission bod was that it could be out of balance and thus causing drive plate failure.
 

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Hello everyone, here's what's happened with me. I had a noise very sim to what you all have been describing. Here's what I found, after warming up it seemed to go a way or be bearley there. I've known about the flexplate issues but didn't feel it was coming from there. It sounds like once you've built oil pressure from a cold start it goes away, so I decided to look deeper into the problem. As I needed a tune up, water pump etc I decided to start fromthe bottom and work up. I was thinking it could maybe be a bad wrist pin. First thing I did was drian the oil over a large maganet, I didn't find any metal shavings so I moved on to removing the intake plenum and valve covers. I noticed in the valve covers there was lots of evidence of water. As both pcv hoses were bad with holes in them I can disscount the water to that since there was no evidence of water in the oil from draing. Next I moved to the plugs (with out putting anything back together) The number 2 plug was first, it looked normal. Then number 4 plug, it also looked normal. After about 5mins of having the plug out I inspected the cylinder thru the plug hole. What I found was water, what was causing the noise was water in the cylinder after it had been sitting for awhil. On a cold start the cylinder was full of water and creating the knock. Just before I did this I was having a hard time starting, I know now this was due to hydro lock from the cylinder being full of water. What I am getting at is having one bad cylinder can cause enough vibration that it creates othe problems. I would check compression before I pulled the tranny. BTW the motor was acctually running fine even with the bad head gasket, by fine I mean it responded well to throttle and idled normal once warm. Good luck all. Sorry for my typos this post was done on my I phone.
 

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argonaut said:
Well, I'm now getting close to making a start on the repair of my P38, this has taken a while as I've been very busy and also skint - meaning having to save some pennies for repair bits and pieces. Today I found something on eBay that made me wonder: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Drive-Plate-Buttr ... 5180e8ad5e

A drive plate buttress? The listing is for a Disco V8 but I wonder whether the P38 does or should have this or whether it's a good idea or not? Anyone have any idea about this? I couldn't find it in my RAVE stuff. The question really is whether I should consider buying this and reinforcing my plate assembly. I will be replacing the torque converter as the latest theory after speaking with a transmission bod was that it could be out of balance and thus causing drive plate failure.
They do have these (the 2 engines i stripped from auto's did anyway) think it's a standard part, if your's is missing, perhaps this is the problem, let me know if you need 1, i may still have them at work
 

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firestorm said:
argonaut said:
Well, I'm now getting close to making a start on the repair of my P38, this has taken a while as I've been very busy and also skint - meaning having to save some pennies for repair bits and pieces. Today I found something on eBay that made me wonder: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Drive-Plate-Buttr ... 5180e8ad5e

A drive plate buttress? The listing is for a Disco V8 but I wonder whether the P38 does or should have this or whether it's a good idea or not? Anyone have any idea about this? I couldn't find it in my RAVE stuff. The question really is whether I should consider buying this and reinforcing my plate assembly. I will be replacing the torque converter as the latest theory after speaking with a transmission bod was that it could be out of balance and thus causing drive plate failure.
They do have these (the 2 engines i stripped from auto's did anyway) think it's a standard part, if your's is missing, perhaps this is the problem, let me know if you need 1, i may still have them at work

That's interesting, maybe a contributing cause then. I'll have a look see and let you know if I need one, cheers
 

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firestorm said:
no probs, if your close, i've also got a flywheel, torque convertor, flexiplate, if you need them

Unfortunately, I'm not exactly close to you - I'm in Budapest.
But.....how much would you want for the Torque Convertor, Flexi Plate and Buttress? (I definitely need those items) - I assume this is GEMS stuff?
Perhaps you could send me a PM?
Cheers
Jason
 

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hi, you can have the bit's, they no good to me, i got a manual, but postage it gonna be expensive, the torque convertor is really heavy, probably gonna cost more to post, than you can get a new one for,
 

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firestorm said:
hi, you can have the bit's, they no good to me, i got a manual, but postage it gonna be expensive, the torque convertor is really heavy, probably gonna cost more to post, than you can get a new one for,

I might be able to get someone to collect the bits from you - could you maybe PM me your address?
Cheers
Jason
 

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Well with many thanks to Firestorm I will hopefully soon have the bits and pieces I need to have a go at fixing my Rangie once and for all (ha ha).
I don't have the luxury of a 4 post lift so I will be doing things the old fashioned way - laying on my back underneath the car and struggling - any tips on the best choice of swear words needed here?

Seriously though, although I don't have a lift I do have a pair of jackable ramps that will raise up to about 18" so hopefully I will have enough clearance to be able to remove the gearbox and importantly, be able to move it sideways out from underneath the car.

I will be documenting the progress as I go and will try to put some pics and text up in this thread just in case it may be useful to others.

The first step has now been done - since I'm too old to enjoy laying under a car whilst it's outside in the cold surrounded by snow I've spent a few hours this afternoon and now have the car in the garage, in a day or so it will have dried out and hopefully warmed up to something approaching room temperature rather than the -2°C we're currently enjoying here.

Does anyone have experience of gearbox removal in this fashion (i.e. without a lift and using ramps/axle stands) - any pitfalls I need to be aware of going in?
Any tips or simple words of encouragement much appreciated.
Cheers
 

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Well, let the games begin, Rangie is now sitting proudly on my ramps - access actually looks pretty decent. The ramps are jackable and at the moment with them on the lowest setting there's easy crawl access under the gearbox and I think that when the time comes to remove the gearbox from underneath the car, with the ramps raised a bit it should be straight forward.
Driving up on the ramps was a wee bit hairy - I'm here on my own with no-one to guide me so I used a couple of old mirrors so that I could see how lined up the car was as I was driving up - worked a treat.
 

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A brief status update: after a couple of days playing with the car I now have the gearbox removed, not too bad a job really.
Both alignment dowels are present, there does not appear to be anything wrong apart from the large split across half the diameter of the flexplate - this confirmed my diagnosis anyway.
I also discovered that 3 of the bellhousing bolts were loose and 3 of the flywheel bolts were loose too - that probably didn't help things.

Now I await the replacement parts but in the meantime I will be doing plenty of cleaning and fettling under the car - any good tips for a decent paint or sealant to use? I don't do very much offroading but I'd like something decent. I plan to remove all surface rust and treat/coat/paint the affected areas.
 

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hi, did your flexi plate have a drive plate buttress, like the 1 in the e-bay pic? parts are waiting for you, did u get my last pm
 
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