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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Discussion Starter #1
I know that this is probably a door latch from reading the forums, but I wanted to ask anyways before I shelled out $189.

My 2000 4.6 has the typically locking unlocking problem, but only the passenger, and rear doors. (I am LH drive). It's never the driver side, and if I open the door it is not alarmed. This I think has caused the battery to drain faster then normal.

The only thing I think could have something to do with it is I moved the strike plate on the frame to help the door close more tightly. Any chance if I moved this around I would get rid of the ghost?

Thanks, DM
 

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Registered
1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
Joined
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1,295 Posts
I know that this is probably a door latch from reading the forums, but I wanted to ask anyways before I shelled out $189.

My 2000 4.6 has the typically locking unlocking problem, but only the passenger, and rear doors. (I am LH drive). It's never the driver side, and if I open the door it is not alarmed. This I think has caused the battery to drain faster then normal.

The only thing I think could have something to do with it is I moved the strike plate on the frame to help the door close more tightly. Any chance if I moved this around I would get rid of the ghost?

Thanks, DM
Before you shell out anything, do the door latch tests in FAQs Sticky at top:
http://www.rangerovers.net/forum/7-range-rover-mark-ii-p38/131722-info-front-door-latch-tests.html
If the door latch wasn't properly engaged with the striker plate you'd get a door open warning (assuming latch switches were OK) so do the tests on both front doors first.
 
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