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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys, so I'm on the side of the road. My Rangie says fuse 6 failed, gearbox fault, and abs fault. I checked and fuse 6 had indeed failed, so I replaced, restarted the engine, and it was fine for about 5 seconds then the fuse blew again and all the same errors! I don't notice anything strange while driving except it feels as though the transmission is starting in 2nd or 3rd (sluggish off the line). I'm guessing a ground is loose, but any idea which one or where to even start looking?! It's worth mentioning that the fuse that blew is under the passenger seat - but when I opened the fuse box under the hood it had the faint smell of burnt electronics. I checked all the fuses and relays under there and did not find any damage though. HELP! please :)
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Sounds lke you have a short or over load somewhere, its not going to be a roadside fix me thinks.

Have you checked various cables etc for shaffing..
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Just limped it home. Read some posts on here. Went back out, check the fuse box superficially - no signs of burns, all relays and fuses look fine, top battery cable to fuse box solid and in place - but there is still that burnt electronics smell. Swapped relay #15 at someone elses advice and still the same deal. It blows Fuse #6 under the passenger seat IMMEDIATELY as soon as I turn the key into the "On" position (I don't even have to crank the car) - this fuse is what powers the gearbox ECU so there is no doubt this is what's causing my gearbox to be stuck in the limp home mode. ANY ideas as to where to check, what to look for? Thanks in advance!
 

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As it is fuse 6, using RAVE and find out what else goes through it, and just start
checking the wiring.


:shock:
Easy way to search is, replace fuse 6 with one of much greater A, turn on the ignition and
wait for the smoke. That's where the short is.
:shock:
:lol:
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Hi

BECM Fuse6:

Transfer box ecu
Gearbox ecu
Sensor module h-gate
chromatic rear view mirror
sun visor lamps.

As the transferbox ecu is a common failure item try disconnecting it and replace the fuse.

Good luck

Jos
 

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The fusebox itself is a common fail point.
Might be worth taking it out and looking at the underside for burnt areas or arcing
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks, will try disconnecting the transferbox ecu and see if that does it. Otherwise, is the underseat fusebox really a common failure point as well, or were you talking about the under the hood one?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Anyone else have any idea how I might go about tracking this thing down, apart from tracing every wire? I did check the ground for this circuit and it's intact and without corrosion - so I know it's not that.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Ok, apart from plugging a 30amp fuse in and waiting for the smoke - does anyone have any other suggestions how to track this down?
 

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Hi

Disconnect everything and then connect one by one. The moment the fuse blows you have found your problem consumer.

Regards

Jos
 

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Yeah ok....right.

I had to replace a wiring harness on mine for transfer box ecu cos some nut *censored* did a bypass on the system.

any way the wiring harness runs to the left side of the vehicle under the carpet and it runs around kind of sharpish steel portions of the seat mounting area.

Remove both seats and have fun tracing fault, it sounds like you have a dead short but your mention of electronic smeel concerns me most cos it may even be the BeCM.....dreaded the thought and hope it a short which is highly proberble as I have worked on this area.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Alright ... so ... I went in and took out most of the drivers seat just looking around. I had everything unplugged but the Transmission ECU and whatever the H-Gate sensor is, put a fuse in, and it blew it right away. I unplugged the Transmission ECU, put a new fuse in, and wha-la! It worked! Then, I plugged everything else back in and it still worked! So I then plugged the Transmission ECU back in and whadda-ya-know it all works now. So I put everything together and drove it back to my house. All is well except now I have a check engine light (which came on when all this started).

I tried pulling the ground off the battery for about 30 seconds to try and reset it - but no luck. So 2 things - 1. What are the chances that I just moved whatever was grounding and the problem will return (as opposed to the connection to the Transmission ECU just needed to be reseated) and 2. How do I reset that check engine light?
 

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Most likely you moved the bad wire. Resetting the ECU won't fix a direct short. Last but not least I bought a cheap 60.00 code reader at Auto Zone and it resets the check engine light. (Thanks Martin)
Good Luck

Scotty
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Just an update on this - I went out today and it blew the fuse again... So I pulled the drivers seat, transmission ECU and transferbox ECU - examined the wiring harness from the plugs all the way to where is passes the center console. Didn't see any obvious fray anywhere - however, there were a couple of sharp corners the harness passes around and the harness itself is only partially wrapped in electrical tape (that is - there is an inch and a half of exposed wire between wraps of tape). So what I did was fully wrap the whole harness with tape - from the passenger seat all the way to the plugs - no exposed wires - refitted everything neatly - and so far no issues. I'm hoping by fully taping it I'm preventing whatever wire was shorting from contacting metal. Is this sound thinking or am I setting myself up for some other issue down the road? I really didn't see a cut or frayed wire anywhere.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Ok guys, I'm really at a loss. The fuse popped again, so I'm here in the garage. Both seats are out. Carpet is pulled up. I have full view of the harness. I unplugged everything from the BECM, pulled it up and inspected for damage and reinstalled. This time, like before, no fuse popped. I've gone over every inch of the harness, moved it every way possible and still cannot get it to blow a fuse. Which makes me wonder if a frayed wire is what I'm looking for at all?! Before I put it back together again, can anyone weigh in on anything else I should check?! I really don't know what to do!
 
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