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Have an 04 RR that just started doing some strange shifting. the car travelling at highway speeds will either all of a sudden shift to a lower gear as if to pass then refuse to shift down again unless the rpms go very high. when you slow down it changes gears into lower gears but only shifts again when the rpms go high and will not go any further than 4th. There are no malfunction lights or anything. The only thing that stops it is pulling to astop and switching car off; also removing all the transmission fuses and replacing them restores normal shifting. Engine temp gauge is normal.. what is going on. The indy mechanic pulled the pan and said the fluid was not even dirty, car has 77k miles and I have owned it for 6 years. obd scan at indy showed some fuel sensor code. Any helpful advice besides buy a toyota (just kidding).
 

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LEGACY VENDOR
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Does your transmission always shift normally when started from cold i.e. the problem only starts after half an hour or so?

Phil
 

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transmission shifts fine when cold or just starting. According to my wife the primary driver, it had only happened two or three times until we took a trip this past week into Austin Texas (very hilly) and then it started happening multiple times a day.. took it to an indy since the land rover dealer didn't have room to spare but no codes. Engine temp gauge was in the middle. Coincidentally on the 4th day checking all fluids prior to going home I found the coolant in the expansion tank on the low side have to top it off once in a while since they replaced all the hoses due to the adapter behind the engine leaking.. but thats another story and this is just coincidence right?
 

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Just read a bunch of posts saying it may be the Radiator? what in the world ? why can't they just have a regular transmission cooler like everyone else. Does this mean my tranny is fried since the symptoms started? The indy replaced maybe 5-6 quarts before my trip to austin. can I put an aftermarket trans cooler since the engine is happy enough with the radiator?
 

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Your transmission is just trying to protect its ‘fill for life’ fluid from oxidation. The fluid temperature sensor is telling the transmission ECU to delay/inhibit upshifts to keep the engine speed high and therefore the pump cooling flow at its maximum. It doesn’t necessarily mean your transmission is ‘fried’ if you’ve caught it early & replaced the fluid (though you must use Esso LT 71141).

rgv04rr said:
...why can't they just have a regular transmission cooler like everyone else...
Your L322 is fitted with a ‘regular transmission cooler’ and it’s an oil-to-water type rather than an oil-to-air one. There are good reasons for this.

Automatic transmissions with torque converters fitted with lock-up clutches produce the majority of their heat load at low vehicle speeds, where air flow is at its minimum. Water has both a higher thermal conductivity and a higher specific heat capacity than air and therefore requires a lower volumetric flow to shift a given heat load. An oil-to-water cooler also acts as a transmission fluid heater at low ambient temperatures as the engine coolant gets up to temperature much more quickly.

An oil-to-water cooler is therefore much more efficient than an oil-to-air one (but more expensive).

Great in theory but unfortunately the L322 takes its transmission fluid cooler’s water flow from the lower eight rows of the engine radiator which, it turns out, are susceptible to becoming blocked by sediment/corrosion. The rest of the radiator (i.e. above the bottom hose) is fine so engine cooling is unaffected. So, if this is the cause, just replace the engine radiator & your problem will disappear.

The other possibility is that the transmission fluid cooler itself (or its feed/return pipes) have become restricted/blocked – but the radiator has to be favourite as it is such a common problem with this vehicle (see TSB below).

Phil
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thank you.. hope I caught it in time. I saw the radiator from utah is 350 and 20 min to R/R if you're handy with a wrench.
 

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I am having the same problem but no warning lights are coming on. After driving 20 minutes the truck shifts funny as if it wont down shift and its really pissed me off. I just replaced the radiator so what is it a clogged tranmission cooler or lines. Its a 2003 with 70k and a never ending headache. please tell me something good....please help
 

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Radiator is the problem; I have just about the same milage. I also replaced the tranny fluid and car is shifting super smooth with no more problems.
 

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Hello everyone,

I know this is an older post but I wanted some help with regards to a somewhat similar problem Ive had with my 2004 RR Westminster. I have noticed over the past year that Ive had instances wherein if the traffic was stop and go, going uphills, or when the engine gets hot (doesnt happen when the engine is cold or doesnt do a lot of stops, eg. freeway driving), or even if the weather is hot (i live in Los Angeles), I would experience sort of a clunk in the engine, then I will notice that the engine would not shift anymore. It wouldnt go past 2nd gear I think. I dont know what else to do because i have already done the following:
1. transmission oil flush (about a year ago) : they said no metal found (whatever that means...)
2. replaced the radiator (within the last 6 months)
3. replaced expansion tank ( (a couple of months ago)
4. replaced transmission cooler thermostat ( a few months ago)
5. replaced water pump (about a year and a half ago)

I even brought it to the Land Rover dealer in Pasadena a few months ago, but they could not recreate the problem (as always...) and they have found no fault codes on the computer. I feel like it shifts great, and otherwise has no problems, no error messages on the dash either, nor any leaks so far. What else could be the problem??? I am so confused and frustrated with this problem.. Ive read here that it could also be the the transmission oil cooler (which Im scheduled to replace on Monday). Anything else that you guys think Im missing? HELP!!!
 

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2002-2005 Range Rover MkIII / L322
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Advice BUMP! Same Issues as others in this thread:
*NO Dashboard Faults
*NO Transmission ECU Faults
*Perfect Shifting While Cool
*After about 30 minutes of around-town driving, the transmission holds on to gear until around 4K RPM before shifting & downshifts much earlier than normal when slowing to a stop...
*Radiator JUST replaced... Engine Cooling Perfectly... Fresh BMW Blue Coolant...

Is this the correct order of diagnostic repairs?

1. Remove COOLANT HOSES to TRANSMISSION COOLER & somehow run water through the cooler to check for COOLANT blockage in TRANSMISSION COOLER... (Is this possible?)
2. Replace TRANSMISSION COOLER THERMOSTAT... (how to test?)
3. Drain & Fill TRANSMISSION FLUID (Esso/Mobil LT71141 ONLY)
----> If it comes to this, I will most likely replace the filter & clean magnets also... will the removal of the transmission cooler return line flush of 2 quarts through this line make any Transmission Cooler clog apparent? Unless there is NO fluid drained from the Transmission Cooler Return Hose while engine is running, what is the best way to diagnose a PARTIALLY clogged or poorly functioning Transmission Cooler?
4. Replace TRANSMISSION COOLER
5. Anything I missed???

This DID happen once before while running through some very hilly areas of TN & northern GA... I assumed the radiator replacement would solve... but it's baaaaaaack.... :(

2004 RR w/ BMW M62 & ZF5HP24 Transmission)
 

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2002-2005 Range Rover MkIII / L322
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Shouldn't this "transmission cooling" shifting pattern result in some kind of transmission fault code? I'm waiting for it to appear again, but would rather tackle the problem now before the transmission fluid gets heated again... I suppose no fault means it wasn't heated to the point of a "Transmission Overheated" fault code, but still...

Any thoughts on the diagnostic repairs planned in the post above? I've read the transmission coolers RARELY fail... Is there a way to successfully FLUSH the transmission cooler? Or test for clogs on both water & oil sides or is it easier to simply replace it?

Thanks All...
 

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Ok.... So, if I replace the transmission cooler thermostat (PBM000010), is it a good idea to change the thermostat bracket as well? (PCU000140) Anything else to check considering this will be the second coolant draining this month & I'd rather not make a third? (first was radiator replacement... I'm hoping the third is not the transmission cooler replacement)
 

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Well... this might be maintenance overkill, but given the truck has entered the "transmission cooling mode shift pattern" three times now, I figure a "transmission overheat" fault code (or worse) is next... plus, I already have a couple of trips planned for this spring which involve some towing... so I want this sorted now...

I tried to run low pressure water through the coolant side of the transmission cooler with no luck in either direction... I didn't have a very good way of sealing it because I left the cooler attached to the transmission oil lines, but still... no luck whatsoever... I have chosen to replace all of components/fluids listed below.

I've gone back & forth about 20 times on the transmission fluid & filter... (fingers crossed)... Final decision had to do more with the need to open & refill the system to replace the transmission oil cooler & lines... AND, of course, the advice of RRPhil concerning my detailed situation & transmission oil which has possibly been heated at least three times now...

Radiator (New... replaced last month... on a 92 degree day, the truck still entered "transmission cooling shift pattern" after 30+ minutes of stop & go low speed traffic)
Transmission Cooler (New - LR)
Transmission Cooler Thermostat (New - LR)
Transmission Cooler & Thermostat Mount (Flushed & Checked... No Blockage or Cracks)
Transmission Cooler Feed Line (New - LR)
Transmission Cooler Return Line (New - LR)
Transmission Filter (New - LR)
Transmission Oil (Esso/Mobil LT71141)
Transfer Case (Drain & Fill... Castrol BOT 26 FMB 1)
Front Differential (Drain & Fill... AMSOIL Severe Gear 75W-90)
Rear Differential (Drain & Fill... AMSOIL Severe Gear 75W-90)

Parts all ordered... now the big wait...

One Question... Is there anything else to "check" or look for in the transmission while dropping the pan to change the filter? (other than cleaning the magnets)
 

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The valve block pretty much fills ‘the hole’ so there’s unfortunately not much else that you can see. Like you suggested, the main thing is to check the four magnets for metallic debris - oh and don’t overtighten the two filter Torx bolts – their torque setting is only 6Nm. If you’re particularly keen you could remove the two speed sensors and check that there’s no metallic debris attached to the (magnetic) pickup ends. You could also test the solenoid resistances but there's probably no point if you haven't been having any shift problems.

Phil
 

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Sweet... No problems with shifting, so I'll probably leave the rest alone... & torque wrench ready because I have always had a heavy wrench hand... Thanks AGAIN, RRPhil...
 

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I am having the same problem. In stop ang go traffic it won't shift beyond 2nd gear. You listed a lot of fixes. What ultimately fixed the problem? Thanks.

Chuck
2004 RR L322
 

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Unfortunately I experienced the same exact symptoms as listed above in my 04 RR today. Just had a transmission flush last week and replaced the dirty tranny fluid. Was driving great (except my TC shudder I've been having). Then i started driving around town and noticed it wouldn't shift until it reached 4K rpms and wouldn't go past 3rd gear. Even in manual mode I wasn't able to up shift into a higher gear.
 
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