[meelaud]

hey friends - so my 06 RRS HSE has been having C1A13 and C1A20 codes - sometimes going down to the bump stops. i replaced the dryer and also decided to do the valve repair kit while i had the compressor out. while trying to take off the 17mm bolt to access the spring on the compressor, it turned half a turn, then somehow took the head right off the bolt

i put the compressor back on the car to see if it leaks there...and it does. i took the compressor back off and put on some high temp gasket maker over the sheared off bolt (after sanding it down as best as i can). i have low hopes for this working, but thought i'd give it a shot.

here's the damage:

here's my attempt at fixing it (still letting it cure for 24 hours):

has anyone else run into this issue? if so, what was your remedy?

 

[garrycol]

I had exactly the same issue 4 weeks ago - also getting the C1A20 codes.

Here is mine
IMG_20190303_135919

I had rebuilt my compressor but I was still faulting - C1A20 (note the car will not drop even with no compressor fitted so if yours is dropping you have a front/rear/central valve block issue)

I thought I might change the exhaust valve block and ended up like you.

You can buy a new valve and housing from ebay but the issue is that you have to drill the plug that is still in the compressor out and retap the thread.

When I broke mine off I did not have replacement parts and while the car will drive without a compressor sooner or later it will go down so I needed to put it back in as it would still put some air into the tank and keep the car up.

With the hex head broken off I ran the compressor for a leak test and found air was coming out the broken plug - so the valve was not sealing - hence C1A20 - meaning some air was going straight out the exhaust port because the valve was cracked open a little.

So I tried to get the plug out of the compressor and even after bashing the crap out of it with a hammer and screwdriver to unscrew it, it would not move.

So I just filled the entire area shown in my pic with super glue to seal it - I figured superglue would have the strength to hold the 300psi pressure if needed.

Leaving for 12 hours to dry it no longer leaked and I put the compressor in - and guess what no more fault codes (C1A20). The issue I had is now fixed - my take is that either corrosion or dead white desiccant powder was stopping the exhaust valve from completely closing and letting air escape rather than into the system. Bashing the crap out of it must have dislodged the restriction.

4 weeks later and 1500miles later I still have no faults but who knows how long my super glue will hold. I have no received a new valve and housing and right or wrong I have decided not to actually repair the compressor. If the superglue fails the car still works so I will then take the compressor out , drill the plug out, retap and install new parts. I bought the bits individually but ebay sellers have the complete kit.

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Land-Ro...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Land-Ro...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649

Some pics on line of the repair required - see pics 4,5,6,7
https://picclick.fr/Discovery-3-4-Sport-Range-Rover-Air-Compressor-272726447216.html

The easy replacement
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jjnrHJqFKFs

I hope this helps

Garry

 

[meelaud]

I had exactly the same issue 4 weeks ago - also getting the C1A20 codes.

Here is mine
IMG_20190303_135919

I had rebuilt my compressor but I was still faulting - C1A20 (note the car will not drop even with no compressor fitted so if yours is dropping you have a front/rear/central valve block issue)

I thought I might change the exhaust valve block and ended up like you.

You can buy a new valve and housing from ebay but the issue is that you have to drill the plug that is still in the compressor out and retap the thread.

When I broke mine off I did not have replacement parts and while the car will drive without a compressor sooner or later it will go down so I needed to put it back in as it would still put some air into the tank and keep the car up.

With the hex head broken off I ran the compressor for a leak test and found air was coming out the broken plug - so the valve was not sealing - hence C1A20 - meaning some air was going straight out the exhaust port because the valve was cracked open a little.

So I tried to get the plug out of the compressor and even after bashing the crap out of it with a hammer and screwdriver to unscrew it, it would not move.

So I just filled the entire area shown in my pic with super glue to seal it - I figured superglue would have the strength to hold the 300psi pressure if needed.

Leaving for 12 hours to dry it no longer leaked and I put the compressor in - and guess what no more fault codes (C1A20). The issue I had is now fixed - my take is that either corrosion or dead white desiccant powder was stopping the exhaust valve from completely closing and letting air escape rather than into the system. Bashing the crap out of it must have dislodged the restriction.

4 weeks later and 1500miles later I still have no faults but who knows how long my super glue will hold. I have no received a new valve and housing and right or wrong I have decided not to actually repair the compressor. If the superglue fails the car still works so I will then take the compressor out , drill the plug out, retap and install new parts. I bought the bits individually but ebay sellers have the complete kit.

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Land-Ro...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Land-Ro...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649

Some pics on line of the repair required - see pics 4,5,6,7
https://picclick.fr/Discovery-3-4-Sport-Range-Rover-Air-Compressor-272726447216.html

The easy replacement
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jjnrHJqFKFs

I hope this helps

Garry

Hi Garry - awesome, good to know i'm not alone with this issue! glad to hear the superglue is holding up, we'll see if this gasket maker will do the trick for me. if not - im ready to drill it out and retap.

 

[garrycol]

But remember you still have the underlying issue of what is causing the C1A20 (pressure increases too slow when filling reservoir) code. I suggest you do as I did and give the area around the exhaust valve and the top of the piston area a few sharp taps with a hammer to dislodge anything that may be stopping the valve from closing. After adding your sealant and refitting the compressor then if you still get this code then you will have to drill, tap and put new bits in.

Also, you have that other code and the dropping issue to deal with. As I said, the car runs fine without a compressor in it and will stay up if there are no leaks - however as a little air is lost each time the car self levels and on start and stop after a while the car will start to settle. If you had to replace the desiccant the white powder will be through the system so the valve blocks - front/rear and the control block just in front of the compressor may need cleaning out - word of caution carefully just loosen connectors and listen for a hiss indicating air pressure - if so leave there and let it hiss and go inside for a cuppa - by the time you came back the system in that area will be depressurised.

 

[meelaud]

But remember you still have the underlying issue of what is causing the C1A20 (pressure increases too slow when filling reservoir) code. I suggest you do as I did and give the area around the exhaust valve and the top of the piston area a few sharp taps with a hammer to dislodge anything that may be stopping the valve from closing. After adding your sealant and refitting the compressor then if you still get this code then you will have to drill, tap and put new bits in.

Also, you have that other code and the dropping issue to deal with. As I said, the car runs fine without a compressor in it and will stay up if there are no leaks - however as a little air is lost each time the car self levels and on start and stop after a while the car will start to settle. If you had to replace the desiccant the white powder will be through the system so the valve blocks - front/rear and the control block just in front of the compressor may need cleaning out - word of caution carefully just loosen connectors and listen for a hiss indicating air pressure - if so leave there and let it hiss and go inside for a cuppa - by the time you came back the system in that area will be depressurised.

full disclosure - i bought this rangie from a family friend, it had been sitting for 4 months without use since his divorce (it was his ex wifes car). it was down on its bumpstops when i bought it. the suspension would pump up to a semi-normal height once every 15 times i turned it on (even after resetting the codes and/or doing a hard reset with the battery terminals) - but i'd notice the front would start going down before the back overnight. the compressor would try to pump for 10-15 seconds before erroring out at start-up. i did a leak test on the struts with soapy water, couldn't see any bubbles. sprayed the center and rear valve blocks too - no leaks. im assuming the front valve block is a culprit. i have a rebuild kit for it sitting in the garage.

when i put my leaky compressor back on last night as a test, the suspension finally had risen to a normal height in the first time in months. i was able to even use the height control settings for the first time too - small victory! i walked out to my garage this morning and there doesn't appear to be any overnight sagging with the battery disconnected and the compressor on the floor.

as a back up to my iffy compressor, i ordered a used Hitachi compressor that's been recently rebuilt. oh and i also gave my compressor a few good whacks around the sheared 17mm bolt to loosen all that crap up. we'll see if the gasket job did the trick, if not - ill throw in the rebuilt one.

thanks for your advice, truly appreciated!

 

[garrycol]

i did a leak test on the struts with soapy water, couldn't see any bubbles. sprayed the center and rear valve blocks too - no leaks. im assuming the front valve block is a culprit. i have a rebuild kit for it sitting in the garage.

I am glad you are on the way to recovery

Doing the soapy water leak test will only show up external leaks not internal leaks.

The compressor sends air through the central valve block to the tank. From there the air goes back along the same pipe to the central where it is either sent to the front or rear valve block as required and to the air bags. When air is released from the airbags by the relevant valve block it goes back to the central valve block and then into to desiccant chamber where the air from the airbags takes moisture out of the desiccant and then out of the the compressor exhaust port. This is the little fart you oftenhear when you have just parked up and the car tries to level. I dont have my covers on and hear all the farts in a big way - there are more than you think.

So if there are leaks inside the valve blocks - such as bad o rings (not likely) or crud around the solonoid valves, air can make its way out of the system back to the compressor and then out the exhaust port. So no amount of soapy water will pick this up.

Good luck

Garry

 

[meelaud]

update:

so instead for putting the old ghetto fixed compressor back on, i ordered a unit that came from a lower mileage LR3 that was rebuilt within the past 10k...for $50 shipped - the seller rebuilt the dryer, valve spring, piston seals. as i was waiting for this part to come in, my RRS was sitting in my garage with the battery disconnected for 5 days. good news is that the ride height remained constant all 5 days.

fast forward to today: package came in, looked like a quality piece, slapped it on and drove around some. no more suspension error lights and the compressor is much quieter than the old one.

i never threw on the old hitachi, but will keep it as a back up.

 

[garrycol]

Thats - great good news all round. Now that I have learnt all the ins and outs of the Hitachi through my fault experiences I am going to see if I can find a dead one and rebuild it to keep as a spare and take with me when I overland.

Glad it has all worked out.