[TheHangover1]

Hi everyone! A proud owner of a beautiful '14 RRS SC in Indus Silver/ Red Interior 60K Miles. Not my first Rover, so I'm glad to be back apart of the family! At purchase, a light was on indicating "Battery Low"/ Please Start Engine. Dealer noted the concern, but then the light disappeared and never came back... Over the course of my 14 days of ownership, things were fine, until yesterday.

While out of state on a road trip, the car started acting funky when I tried"locking" it via the key fob. I first noticed the passenger door mirror didn't fold in, but noticed the left did. Then, when I tried to unlock it via fob, it would not unlock. I finally manually opened the car (and set off the alarm in process) but the key fob was not recognized. Force started using steering column's Smart Key system.

Noted the following:

1. Passenger window controls / mirror worked intermittently
2. Passenger Door Locks Not Working
3. Camera System Fault - Consult Dealer message

Called nearest LR Dealer and brought it in for what I assumed to be a faulty, or dead battery replacement... Service technicians were extremely busy and when they finally took a look, I was told they'd replace the key fob battery, but the car battery was "fine, and I had a much larger problem" -- "The car's computer system seemed to be failing", and they would need atleast 5-6 hours in diagnostic work alone to confirm this and to determine next steps. Stunned, I opted to return to my local dealer in Chicago due to the sense of concern and urgency.

As they are pulling the car around, my service advisor informs me that when they replaced my key fob battery and reset the codes, the car seemed to be operating as normal again. They advised that it may be related to the extreme cold temps, but I didn't trust it. Hopped right on the road back to IL, wanting to get it home to my local dealer.

Today, I went to start the car to drop it off at the local dealer. Again, would not unlock. Same manual entry & force start and immediately noticed something was wrong. On my ten minute drive to the dealer, the following occurred:

1. Multiple warning lights
   • Camera System Fault
   • Brake light fault
   • ABS Fault
   • Charging System Fault
   • Low Battery Warning Light
2. Climate control completely not working
3. Blinkers / hazard lights not illuminating on virtual dash

As I pulled onto the dealer's street, EVERY light that you can think of lit up. Gearbox, Suspension Fault, Etc... Completely Stoped & would not shift out of park. Turned it off and would not restart. Clicking sound of alternator/ starter but no power or start.

15 mins later, AAA arrives... Car jumpstarts and is totally fine... It's a Sunday night, so we move it to the dealer's parking lot. (I Will call service and explain this in the morning)

SORRY for the long post... I just purchased the car 2 weeks ago, and want to know the verdict /advice from the experts here. Simply a battery issue, or should I run for the hills, now!?

Thanks!

J

 

[Kazimir]

Most likely a battery issue. These things to wonky things when those Volt things are low.

 

[oodathort]

Hi everyone! A proud owner of a beautiful '14 RRS SC in Indus Silver/ Red Interior 60K Miles. Not my first Rover, so I'm glad to be back apart of the family! At purchase, a light was on indicating "Battery Low"/ Please Start Engine. Dealer noted the concern, but then the light disappeared and never came back... Over the course of my 14 days of ownership, things were fine, until yesterday.

While out of state on a road trip, the car started acting funky when I tried"locking" it via the key fob. I first noticed the passenger door mirror didn't fold in, but noticed the left did. Then, when I tried to unlock it via fob, it would not unlock. I finally manually opened the car (and set off the alarm in process) but the key fob was not recognized. Force started using steering column's Smart Key system.

Noted the following:

1. Passenger window controls / mirror worked intermittently
2. Passenger Door Locks Not Working
3. Camera System Fault - Consult Dealer message

Called nearest LR Dealer and brought it in for what I assumed to be a faulty, or dead battery replacement... Service technicians were extremely busy and when they finally took a look, I was told they'd replace the key fob battery, but the car battery was "fine, and I had a much larger problem" -- "The car's computer system seemed to be failing", and they would need atleast 5-6 hours in diagnostic work alone to confirm this and to determine next steps. Stunned, I opted to return to my local dealer in Chicago due to the sense of concern and urgency.

As they are pulling the car around, my service advisor informs me that when they replaced my key fob battery and reset the codes, the car seemed to be operating as normal again. They advised that it may be related to the extreme cold temps, but I didn't trust it. Hopped right on the road back to IL, wanting to get it home to my local dealer.

Today, I went to start the car to drop it off at the local dealer. Again, would not unlock. Same manual entry & force start and immediately noticed something was wrong. On my ten minute drive to the dealer, the following occurred:

1. Multiple warning lights
   • Camera System Fault
   • Brake light fault
   • ABS Fault
   • Charging System Fault
   • Low Battery Warning Light
2. Climate control completely not working
3. Blinkers / hazard lights not illuminating on virtual dash

As I pulled onto the dealer's street, EVERY light that you can think of lit up. Gearbox, Suspension Fault, Etc... Completely Stoped & would not shift out of park. Turned it off and would not restart. Clicking sound of alternator/ starter but no power or start.

15 mins later, AAA arrives... Car jumpstarts and is totally fine... It's a Sunday night, so we move it to the dealer's parking lot. (I Will call service and explain this in the morning)

SORRY for the long post... I just purchased the car 2 weeks ago, and want to know the verdict /advice from the experts here. Simply a battery issue, or should I run for the hills, now!?

Thanks!

J

Hi everyone! A proud owner of a beautiful '14 RRS SC in Indus Silver/ Red Interior 60K Miles. Not my first Rover, so I'm glad to be back apart of the family! At purchase, a light was on indicating "Battery Low"/ Please Start Engine. Dealer noted the concern, but then the light disappeared and never came back... Over the course of my 14 days of ownership, things were fine, until yesterday.

While out of state on a road trip, the car started acting funky when I tried"locking" it via the key fob. I first noticed the passenger door mirror didn't fold in, but noticed the left did. Then, when I tried to unlock it via fob, it would not unlock. I finally manually opened the car (and set off the alarm in process) but the key fob was not recognized. Force started using steering column's Smart Key system.

Noted the following:

1. Passenger window controls / mirror worked intermittently
2. Passenger Door Locks Not Working
3. Camera System Fault - Consult Dealer message

Called nearest LR Dealer and brought it in for what I assumed to be a faulty, or dead battery replacement... Service technicians were extremely busy and when they finally took a look, I was told they'd replace the key fob battery, but the car battery was "fine, and I had a much larger problem" -- "The car's computer system seemed to be failing", and they would need atleast 5-6 hours in diagnostic work alone to confirm this and to determine next steps. Stunned, I opted to return to my local dealer in Chicago due to the sense of concern and urgency.

As they are pulling the car around, my service advisor informs me that when they replaced my key fob battery and reset the codes, the car seemed to be operating as normal again. They advised that it may be related to the extreme cold temps, but I didn't trust it. Hopped right on the road back to IL, wanting to get it home to my local dealer.

Today, I went to start the car to drop it off at the local dealer. Again, would not unlock. Same manual entry & force start and immediately noticed something was wrong. On my ten minute drive to the dealer, the following occurred:

1. Multiple warning lights
   • Camera System Fault
   • Brake light fault
   • ABS Fault
   • Charging System Fault
   • Low Battery Warning Light
2. Climate control completely not working
3. Blinkers / hazard lights not illuminating on virtual dash

As I pulled onto the dealer's street, EVERY light that you can think of lit up. Gearbox, Suspension Fault, Etc... Completely Stoped & would not shift out of park. Turned it off and would not restart. Clicking sound of alternator/ starter but no power or start.

15 mins later, AAA arrives... Car jumpstarts and is totally fine... It's a Sunday night, so we move it to the dealer's parking lot. (I Will call service and explain this in the morning)

SORRY for the long post... I just purchased the car 2 weeks ago, and want to know the verdict /advice from the experts here. Simply a battery issue, or should I run for the hills, now!?

Thanks!

J

I had a similar issue changed battery nothing changed then after searching around in the boot I found the cable from the battery negative to the chassie connection was loose on the body stud as I attempted to tighten it snapped off the body It seems it had been like this from new and after some research a known fault try looking there.

 

[Ham Hands]

This is battery related. A new battery is in order and also a reprogram from a competent dealer (not the one you just came from!) That battery is probably the original. Go with an OEM battery from the Dealer as well. That is why JLR strongly suggest a reprogram and OEM battery as replacement protocol. When the computer doesn't get/read correct voltage lots of problems happen...

 

[Kazimir]

The screwed up part is, and OEM JLR branded battery only has a one year warranty. I just had one done a couple of weeks ago and the dealer was out of JLR branded batteries, so they installed an Interstate battery. Car runs fine.

 

[Ham Hands]

The screwed up part is, and OEM JLR branded battery only has a one year warranty. I just had one done a couple of weeks ago and the dealer was out of JLR branded batteries, so they installed an Interstate battery. Car runs fine.

Well that is good to know that Interstate makes a competent replacement battery option. Report back in a 3-6 months and let us know how she's holding up. Hopefully, very nicely as it' is nice to have a 2nd option.

I've heard of OEM Rover batteries lasting 5-6 years so they definitely seem to be a well made component. If I got 3 years out of my last Jeep Wrangler of 12+ years and 2 years out of my last (2) Rubicon's I was doing well. Also, I replaced the battery 3 times in my last Explorer 3.5Twin-Turbo I only owned for a hair over 4 years. These were all OEM Factory Ford and/or MOPAR Dealership batteries and/or the Premium biggest cold cranking amps & most expensive batteries (went Aftermarket after OEM batteries went tits up) that I could put in the aforementioned vehicles that AutoZone had. They all fared the very same and all went out in the Summer Month's.

All those vehicles have their primary batteries mounted in the Engine Compartment along the firewall or near the Radiator... Where high heat from normal operation or heat sink/cooling lingers. Heat is what kills batteries, not cold weather I've learned.

The fact that JLR Range Rover mounts their batteries in the Cargo-Holt/Trunk/Boot away from all heat-sink and engine operation might just be why JLR's OEM batteries last so long however. It' certainly makes sense though to get all batteries into the trunk for weight balance and away from heat to me though... The contact points/connections don't suffer from water splash, corrosion, or road grime in the Cargo Hold area either which is another Huge Plus!

 

[Kazimir]

Most battery brands, are just rebranded batteries. There are only a few battery manufacturers on the planet. Even with jlr, the batteries are not made by JLR. They are sourced out to the lowest bidding battery manufacturer.

Most batteries are currently made in China, which explains the wide-ranging service lives that we see out of some of these batteries. Some only last a year, others last 12 +. The battery that shipped with my RR lasted about a year-and-a-half before it had to be replaced.
Had the battery not have been a warranty item, and had to purchase it myself, I would have bought my favorite go-to brand, Odyssey.

Autozone batteries. LOL. 'Nuff said about auto parts store batteries. The only thing you should be buying at AutoZone, or detailing products. Anything they still that has electric circuits in it is junk. Save, maybe, for old school halogen light bulbs.

 

[Ham Hands]

Most battery brands, are just rebranded batteries. There are only a few battery manufacturers on the planet. Even with jlr, the batteries are not made by JLR. They are sourced out to the lowest bidding battery manufacturer.

Most batteries are currently made in China, which explains the wide-ranging service lives that we see out of some of these batteries. Some only last a year, others last 12 +. The battery that shipped with my RR lasted about a year-and-a-half before it had to be replaced.
Had the battery not have been a warranty item, and had to purchase it myself, I would have bought my favorite go-to brand, Odyssey.

Autozone batteries. LOL. 'Nuff said about auto parts store batteries. The only thing you should be buying at AutoZone, or detailing products. Anything they still that has electric circuits in it is junk. Save, maybe, for old school halogen light bulbs.

Agree Generally...

However, The AutoZone batteries lasted as long or longer than the OEM Dealership batteries from Mopar and Motorcraft so they aren't quite as bad as you think. I got tired of paying 2+ time for OEM branded batteries that went tits-up just as often or, more often than the AutoZone batteries. The only thing I go there for now is Synthetic oil/filter for our Jeep, wiper-blades, and detail products like you mentioned. I'm blessed to have drawers/racks with Craftsman, Dewalt, Makita, Porter Cable, Air-Tools, sockets & wrenches... both bought and inherited that I haven't had to ever replace them with anything from AutoZone thankfully except the random Torx-Bits here and there...

There really aren't any High-Quality Auto Stores anymore unless you consider NAPA, Pep-Boys, or O'Riley's to be that... I guess NAPA is the best of all of them regarding tools but they are all about on par in regards to replacement auto parts... I either have to buy aftermarket upgrades or from the dealer 95% of the time.

 

[john o]

Hi everyone! A proud owner of a beautiful '14 RRS SC in Indus Silver/ Red Interior 60K Miles. Not my first Rover, so I'm glad to be back apart of the family! At purchase, a light was on indicating "Battery Low"/ Please Start Engine. Dealer noted the concern, but then the light disappeared and never came back... Over the course of my 14 days of ownership, things were fine, until yesterday.

While out of state on a road trip, the car started acting funky when I tried"locking" it via the key fob. I first noticed the passenger door mirror didn't fold in, but noticed the left did. Then, when I tried to unlock it via fob, it would not unlock. I finally manually opened the car (and set off the alarm in process) but the key fob was not recognized. Force started using steering column's Smart Key system.

Noted the following:

1. Passenger window controls / mirror worked intermittently
2. Passenger Door Locks Not Working
3. Camera System Fault - Consult Dealer message

Called nearest LR Dealer and brought it in for what I assumed to be a faulty, or dead battery replacement... Service technicians were extremely busy and when they finally took a look, I was told they'd replace the key fob battery, but the car battery was "fine, and I had a much larger problem" -- "The car's computer system seemed to be failing", and they would need atleast 5-6 hours in diagnostic work alone to confirm this and to determine next steps. Stunned, I opted to return to my local dealer in Chicago due to the sense of concern and urgency.

As they are pulling the car around, my service advisor informs me that when they replaced my key fob battery and reset the codes, the car seemed to be operating as normal again. They advised that it may be related to the extreme cold temps, but I didn't trust it. Hopped right on the road back to IL, wanting to get it home to my local dealer.

Today, I went to start the car to drop it off at the local dealer. Again, would not unlock. Same manual entry & force start and immediately noticed something was wrong. On my ten minute drive to the dealer, the following occurred:

1. Multiple warning lights
   • Camera System Fault
   • Brake light fault
   • ABS Fault
   • Charging System Fault
   • Low Battery Warning Light
2. Climate control completely not working
3. Blinkers / hazard lights not illuminating on virtual dash

As I pulled onto the dealer's street, EVERY light that you can think of lit up. Gearbox, Suspension Fault, Etc... Completely Stoped & would not shift out of park. Turned it off and would not restart. Clicking sound of alternator/ starter but no power or start.

15 mins later, AAA arrives... Car jumpstarts and is totally fine... It's a Sunday night, so we move it to the dealer's parking lot. (I Will call service and explain this in the morning)

SORRY for the long post... I just purchased the car 2 weeks ago, and want to know the verdict /advice from the experts here. Simply a battery issue, or should I run for the hills, now!?

Thanks!

J

Hi my daughter has the same year Range Rover and she had abs,transmission won’t shift multiple trouble codes for the ABS and communication error codes also the head lights would flash like strobe lights I checked both batteries they both checked good I started troubleshooting the ABS problem first and what I found was behind the driver side front tire inner plastic fender well I removed it and found a bussed ground stud corroded completely off I replace the stud with a new stainless steel bolt and problem solved everything works normal no more ses lights and I called the Range Rover dealer they said it would have cost over 1000.00 dollars and would not guarantee the fix just another ripoff . Bottom line they blame everything on the battery which could cause issues like this if it’s bad I load test my batteries cold and they maintain 10.8 volts which is good most of the time when you have multiple things going on remember to look for and chek your ground wires most of the time it is a quick inexpensive fix