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OK, here it is, finally took the time to get this out and have a look at it and yes, it's corroded. I just wondered how the level of corrosion compares to those of you who have experienced this. I found plenty of topics here on the ECU, but not the actual cleaning process, which I was assuming to do with a very small fine file. I ordered a battery tonight from Ebay in the UK for around $8.00 including international postage. Here's the link for anyone interested courtesy of Ricky from this board:

Any advice or tips on the actual cleaning process will be much appreciated.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vi ... 934wt_1139


[attachment=0:1r27lekt]ECU Board.JPG[/attachment:1r27lekt]

Cheers
JDM
 

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Electrical contact cleaner or rubbing alcohol and a q-tip should work fine.
 

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Mine was no where near as corroded as yours although it was still doing the 'seat switches moving the mirrors trick'
I ordered a new battery on Amazon as it was cheaper than the ones on ebay. I cleaned my board with an alcohol cloth my brother uses at his work.
 

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Well, I tried. Cleaned the board and put in the new battery and still no seats or mirror movement at all. I do hear the transformers clicking though, so something is happening.

Anyway, I decided to start stripping out the interior to take care of the rust and will come back to the ECU at a later date. I couldn't believe how wet it was under the carpets, I had puddles of water obviously entering from the tailgate area, which is also in need of some attention.

Let the fun begin :dance:

Here it is stripped out. Looks like it's off the road for a while now.
[attachment=3:15kqrsbk]Image 001.jpg[/attachment:15kqrsbk]
[attachment=2:15kqrsbk]Image 002.jpg[/attachment:15kqrsbk]
[attachment=1:15kqrsbk]Image 003.jpg[/attachment:15kqrsbk]
[attachment=0:15kqrsbk]Image 004.jpg[/attachment:15kqrsbk]
 

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I have the same rust starting in the channels in the rear load space as you, lol. Dont forget to pull the front carpets 8-0=
 

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Hi,

I don't know whether the ECU in the Soft Dash are the same as the Hard Dash, but this worked on my Hard Dash, I've since resurrected a couple of others using this technique, admitedly I am an Electronics Engineer by trade but I think anyone with a Soldering Iron and access to the bits should be able to fix them.

Just from the picture attached, showing the corrosion under the battery leg, I can make out some damage to the Tracks, remove your new battery first.

The best way to attack this is;

1. Remove the 2 ULN2003 IC's from the board and buy 2 x 16 PIN DIL (Dual In-Line) Sockets from an Electronics shop and 2 new ULN's (they're readlily available on eBay).

2. As everyone else has said, use Switch Cleaner/Electronic Solvent to thoroughly clean the area once the battery and ULN's are removed.

3. Get a strong LED torch and put the board under the board and you'll be able to make out probably at least 4 broken tracks on the PCB around the area where the battery is, its not a multi layered board, so is repairable, it just takes time and patience. Removing the ULN's allows you to see if the Acid has crept underneath and eaten away at the tracks, solder in the DIL Sockets and use some wire (small guage on the DIL's) and larger guage where the broken tracks are wider to repair the breaks.

4. Solder your new battery back in and install the new ULN's and all should be well.

If you were in the UK I would offer to do it for you for a small charge but judging from the pictures I'd guess you're in the US.

Cheers

Mark
 

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It may be worth taking off the front decker pannel under the windscreen to check for rust - please don't ask me why, I don't want to cry again:crybaby2:

Yes, the ecu from the hard dash are the same.
 
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