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kmantz said:
Has anyone tryed to buff or polish out scratches in the satin pillars? Thanks!
I'm assuming you mean the matte black pieces on the doors at the B-pillar location as well as the large ones at the rear...

Yes, I did this on my 2008 (a few times) with Zymol cream wax ( http://www.zymol.com/zymolcreamewax8oz.aspx ).
This is the type of wax that is a little "greasy" and you wipe off before it dries. I've used it for years on all my cars.
It's really intended only for car paint finishes so "use at your own risk" but I was satisfied with the results. It's a bit
expensive at $50 for an 8oz jar however it lasts a long time.

I have not however used a scratch remover or the like on these body panels as I was afraid of residue/film being left behind.

:)
 

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I'm going to go at my scratch with some black wax that I've had lying around. It's makes a huge difference covering up some scratches that I've had on my darker paint.
 

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2006-2009 Range Rover Sport
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[youtube:2w4744qb]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Fk9Pcjgb1z8[/youtube:2w4744qb]

We'll all miss Billy.
 

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gooseyloosey said:
[youtube:pygj2by6]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Fk9Pcjgb1z8[/youtube:pygj2by6]

We'll all miss Billy.
Man I wouldn't put any product that contains oils on those satin black A and C pillars. It is a very porous material that will not respond well. Honestly your best bet is to just replace them.
 

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Ukraine Range said:
Man I wouldn't put any product that contains oils on those satin black A and C pillars. It is a very porous material that will not respond well. Honestly your best bet is to just replace them.
Yes j/k on this video.

But the turbo vacuum and the buffing pad and the extra pen for only $19.95 +S&H vs. spending hundreds at a body shop?

... UR, you have to admit that's a good deal. :D
 

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2010-2012 Range Rover MkIII / L322
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I buffed mine "lightly" with "polishing" compound and an orbital buffer, then applied generous amounts of Mothers "back to black" and they now look like factory finish.
By generous amounts, i mean I applied every week for like a month to the clean surface.
They're not clear coated and the paint on them is a little thicker than I expected.
Don't just spot polish or you'll get sheen variances on the pillar, polish the whole pillar.
Replacing them is not a bad idea either, none of my scratches were deep so I figured I would try my technique.
I've been correcting the paint in my car panel by panel for the last few weeks and that's how I dealt with the pillars.
I'll do a post with recommendations later.
 

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BTW, this is what I used instead of a proper polishing compound, Zymol® Cleaner Wax (Z-503)
 

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Ukraine Range said:
Man I wouldn't put any product that contains oils on those satin black A and C pillars. It is a very porous material that will not respond well. Honestly your best bet is to just replace them.
:shock: :lol: If your advice is to replace them then what harm is there in trying some tested and effective products first? :think:
 

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rrtoadhall said:
Ukraine Range said:
Man I wouldn't put any product that contains oils on those satin black A and C pillars. It is a very porous material that will not respond well. Honestly your best bet is to just replace them.
:shock: :lol: If your advice is to replace them then what harm is there in trying some tested and effective products first? :think:
I see your point, but unfinished textured plastic will not respond to anything.
 

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Textured plastic?

My pillar covers are anodized aluminum, or so I thought and they're smooth satin finish.
 

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I just tapped on mine they sure don't sound like aluminum, or 'aloomineeum' for you UK peeps. They have a dull thud which is more indicative of plastic.
 
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