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Discussion Starter · #41 ·
I am back and with no good news. Air valve blocks rebuilt and didn’t solve the issue. I am taking it back to the shop and having the arnotts swapped out for OEM. Will report back with shops findings in a week or so
 

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Curious to see what the cure is.
My RRS SC does the same thing. Passenger side bottoms out by morning.
When in access mode, I get a flashing red light on front passenger side tire indicator on 4x4 display but not in any other height setting.


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2010-2012 Range Rover Sport
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Hey guys, I don't mean to rain on anyone's parade but I don't think ARNOTT's airstruts are going to be the culpit of the issue. I had them on my previous 2009 RRS SC and just installed them on the rear of current 2013 RRS SC. Workmanship and quality looked terrific. besides everything, odds of getting 2 bad airstruts at the same time twice are slim, in my opinion, probably in the ballpark of hitting jackpot twice in the row. Dear OP, you are using phrases such "my mechanic swapped..." height sensors for example, define "swapped", you mean installed new? You said that mechanic is proficient in Jags and LR? I am not proficient, not even auto mechanic but I'd say, unless your car is pretty new, replacing struts on just one side is pretty unprofessional and would be recommended against by any automotive tech. There is a large list of items that considered to be rule of the thumb, if one side goes, other side is almost there as well and you always do them in pairs L+R - control arms, brake components, struts, shocks, ball joints, toe rods, wheel bearings to name a few. On my 2009 RRS I had interesting issue - front would drop to bump stops as I'd stop at the traffic light, not always, intermittently. Replacing front airshocks did not fix the problem, but replacing height sensors did. That airshock is pretty simple slave device that does not take or release air on its own but I think all that self leveling business and everything to do with airsuspension is happening based on output from those height sensors, computer got nothing else to go by but these 4 thingines. Considering what you are saying from post to post, if your driveway is not perfectly flat, system may try to level itself and with faulty height sensor, level itself in to oblivion = bumpstop.. I understand it may drive you nuts, I'd be the same, but if there is no leak from the airstrut, it is likely something else. If all valve blocks check out, I'd start with 4 new height sensors and park the car somewhere else, say where healthy side would be higher and healthy side would have to knee down for leveling, just for experiment sake. Also, make sure battery is supergood. I don't know where did you hear about LRs being sensitive to good quality aftermarket parts made by world top quality auto parts manufacturers, certainly not my experience, but info about LRs freaking out in every possible way due to bad battery is all over this forum and number of other places.
RE: cant go to access mode... lets analyze this a little bit, this electronics - more or less my field. So that height sensor is pretty much a varriable resistor enclosed in to watertight body. Lets say it is 10 Kohm for simplicity and resistance of 5K is the middle and driving height. Once you press that access mode button, air is being released and resistance starts to change moving to zero. I would imagine computer expects all 4 reading to decrease with same pace and come to zero all at once, if not, or some didnt, system would assume that there is an obstacle under and go back up. If there is wear point or a microcrack in resistive layer of one or more sensors, outcome would be the same, car cant go in to access, same could explain bizzare leveling attempts. To make long story short (obviously too late for that) - in my opinion - make sure you have all 4 new height sensors and wiring/connectors to those are healthy. Check battery. If/when finances allow, replace both L and R airstruts - it would be right way to do it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #44 ·
@Roman NJ thank you for that long post I read it all and appreciate the knowledge and advice.

So I do have some news and this probably won’t help most people and not sure why it happened to me. I replaced my tired with the 275/55/20s and for some reason the right side height sensors would say they were taking the OEM spec calibration but it actually wasn’t.

Also the arnotts were not the issue has Roman said the likelihood of getting two bad sets are pretty high.

also as Roman pointed out the height sensors being swapped didn’t change anything. While they where replaced with new and recalibrated the issue persisted.

So in conclusion(LOL) he manually adjusted the height sensors to sit 5mm higher in each setting( access, normal and extended). The larger tire size caused all the issues. It no longer sags and it stays where it needs too. I’m not sure why I had this issue and other who used the same tire size did not but that is what resolved it. The vehicle now goes into access mode and stays there.

Hope this helps someone out there.
 

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Discussion Starter · #45 ·
Well it’s not becoming comical. The problem is no at it’s worst. The vehicle is lopsided at all times now. Constant lean to the right. Back at the shop.

left side is factory OEM never been touched other than control arms. No issues whatsoever at 166k miles.

right side continues to be the issue and issues didn’t start till shop replaced both passenger side struts. Getting frustrated. It’s on them at this point. Will post once I get the vehicle back.
 

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Discussion Starter · #46 ·
update: no real news.
Issue persists. All 4 corners have brand new OEM AIR STRUTS, height sensors and all valve blocks changed. There is positively no leak. Absolutely no codes.
Just for the sake of it when given the opportunity I will swap to an OEM tire size. Currently on 275/55/20, would love to hear people with this tire size chime in. Let me know if you are factory height or went to Johnson rods. I feel like this issue didn’t exist when I first put the tires on but it’s been 1 1/2 years since the swap.

also if anyone lives in the VALLEY in Northern California and has a set of 275/40/20 that I can borrow for a day let me know. We can work out some type of compensation for letting me borrow them.
 

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2007 Range Rover Sport SC L320
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It looks like you have changed everything except for the module. Maybe it is the one that is bad?!?

What you are going through is crazy.
 

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Discussion Starter · #48 ·
It looks like you have changed everything except for the module. Maybe it is the one that is bad?!?

What you are going through is crazy.
You would think if it was bad it would throw a code?
Maybe I’ll give it a look and see if I can find one.
 

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You would think if it was bad it would throw a code?
Maybe I’ll give it a look and see if I can find one.
Just for laughs / did you try pulling the relay that controls the suspension before leaving it overnight. If there is no movement you can rule out an air leak. I would also try swapping height sensors left to right (not sure if you
Can do that?) on a second night to see if that makes a difference / and find somewhere flat to park it overnight. You said ride height was recalibrated - what tool was used to do that ? I’d also reinspect the wiring and connectors for the sensors again very carefully - carefully pull the connector, spray with electrical contact cleaner and re- insert. I’m not sure how easy it is to check the continuity of each pin back to the control module / and if that all fails, try reflashing the control module ( again I’ve never done that - but dealer could tell you of that is possible).
 

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If the vehicle sags on one side after it's left overnight I double it has to do anything with sensors and electronics. I can't see any scenario where the vehicle is trying to adjust the height on its own with the power off.

I had an issue on my 2006 L320 where the air lines at the front of the car (behind the front passenger wheel) were rubbing on the body and developed a leak mid-line. I found it by spraying soapy water all over.

When I was troubleshooting my system I found tons of leaks. I had to replace all of the push-to-connect fittings. The filter in the desiccant tank (part of the pump assembly) was also clogged. I replaced the desiccant and filter, I think I put a new desiccant tank body on it too.

From what I recall, the front two wheel air lines connect to the front valve block, so if only one side is dropping it has to be an issue between the strut/shock, air line to the front valve block , or the the front valve block itself.
 

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Discussion Starter · #51 ·
If the vehicle sags on one side after it's left overnight I double it has to do anything with sensors and electronics. I can't see any scenario where the vehicle is trying to adjust the height on its own with the power off.

I had an issue on my 2006 L320 where the air lines at the front of the car (behind the front passenger wheel) were rubbing on the body and developed a leak mid-line. I found it by spraying soapy water all over.

When I was troubleshooting my system I found tons of leaks. I had to replace all of the push-to-connect fittings. The filter in the desiccant tank (part of the pump assembly) was also clogged. I replaced the desiccant and filter, I think I put a new desiccant tank body on it too.

From what I recall, the front two wheel air lines connect to the front valve block, so if only one side is dropping it has to be an issue between the strut/shock, air line to the front valve block , or the the front valve block itself.
those lines you speak of have been replaced and all parts are now OEM. Compressor is brand new. I will be checking the module per alpacas recommendation
 

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Discussion Starter · #52 ·
So I believe it’s electrical at this point. I was able to catch it lowering. It’s not a slow leak. I can hear and see it drop “notch by notch” it will release air, stop a second, then release air. It will do it until it’s completely aired down.
 
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