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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
Valve blocks keep the air in the struts. If your car doesn’t keep air when you disconnect the electrical and you just replaced your struts, then your valve blocks are leaking. I would just rebuild the compressor. Very easy and a lot cheaper. You do have to be patient and make sure you don’t break anything when disconnecting the hoses.

I went the other way and started with struts before the valve blocks and compressor and my suspension problems did not go away. It is cheap and easy to rebuild those 3. Good maintenance really.

If you know you have a good system for air delivery, then you can proceed with whichever strut that gives you problems. Starting with the struts, unless you can tell they are leaking, is the expensive way to go.
thanks for the advice. I’ll do the test tonight and go from there.
 

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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
Random update.
Two nights ago I put the suspension at max height, took out the relay and let it sit. The next morning I came out and all the measurements matched except for the front passenger. The rear measured as follows 19 3/4” from fender to center of rim. The front left stayed at 20 1/2” from fender to center of rim. The front passenger however went from 20 1/2” to 20 1/4” fender to rim. Negligible?


Last night I turned the vehicle on and let it do it’s normal start up and air up. Turned the vehicle off and took out the relay. This morning the right rear was 2” lower and the front right was 1” lower.

im confused why at max height the suspension for the most part is holding. At normal everyday ride height it drops substantially.

maybe a leak and computer issue?
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
I just recalled something. Last year the vent tubes that go to the sunroof got plugged. It allowed a lot of water to settle on the passenger side floorboard. Anything in that area related to suspension electrical?
 

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Random update.
Two nights ago I put the suspension at max height, took out the relay and let it sit. The next morning I came out and all the measurements matched except for the front passenger. The rear measured as follows 19 3/4” from fender to center of rim. The front left stayed at 20 1/2” from fender to center of rim. The front passenger however went from 20 1/2” to 20 1/4” fender to rim. Negligible?


Last night I turned the vehicle on and let it do it’s normal start up and air up. Turned the vehicle off and took out the relay. This morning the right rear was 2” lower and the front right was 1” lower.

im confused why at max height the suspension for the most part is holding. At normal everyday ride height it drops substantially.

maybe a leak and computer issue?
You have already have the answer. Your valve blocks are contaminated. Replace or rebuild.
If the suspension system is disabled electrically the only answer for movement is air leaking from the system. If the leak cannot be found externally with soapy water it is internal to the system exhaust via the valve blocks.
It is purely mechanical if the electrical system is disabled. Focus on the valve blocks and compressor too if it hasn't been worked on in your ownership.
 
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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
You have already have the answer. Your valve blocks are contaminated. Replace or rebuild.
If the suspension system is disabled electrically the only answer for movement is air leaking from the system. If the leak cannot be found externally with soapy water it is internal to the system exhaust via the valve blocks.
It is purely mechanical if the electrical system is disabled. Focus on the valve blocks and compressor too if it hasn't been worked on in your ownership.
I just spoke to the mechanic as I was about to order the valve blocks. He replaced the valve blocks and the car still did the same thing. I think my next route is the compressor. The former owner didn’t take care of the vehicle very well so maybe it’s got some bad o rings or something.
 

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I just spoke to the mechanic as I was about to order the valve blocks. He replaced the valve blocks and the car still did the same thing. I think my next route is the compressor. The former owner didn’t take care of the vehicle very well so maybe it’s got some bad o rings or something.
I would just replace the compressor unit if in an area where you get winter. Salt and the compressor are not friends.
 

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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
292804
292805


same same? Seems like they both have the same item number and from hitachi. With the difference being a 400 dollar price difference. Anyone have experience with the rock auto compressor?
 

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You get a relay for 400, just order the rock auto one or 2 and have one on the shelf. lol
 

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You don’t want to rebuild it yourself? It’s a very easy job. Full rebuild with an aluminum cap for a little less than $100.
 

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Discussion Starter · #31 ·
I swapped out the compressor. Fairly simple job about 1.5 hours. That hidden bolt is a pain in the butt. So far it’s holding on the right side. Will update in a few days to see if it completely resolved my issue. Thanks for all the advice!
 

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Discussion Starter · #32 ·
Soo....

I am still having the issue but it has seemed to slow the sagging down. Is it possible the system could need to be recalibrated? I feel even with suspension aired up the right side is sitting 1/2” lower( haven’t measured it to confirm yet). I’m considering buying the gap tool so I can recalibrate the system.
 

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Discussion Starter · #33 ·
Alrighty, just saw it do something very strange this morning.

leaving my house early this morning as I was walking to my commuter I hear the range make a noise. I stop and watch it for a bit. It started letting air out on the right side only and I could hear it lower itself but one notch at a time. So it would click, let air out, stop for about 2 seconds and repeat until it was bottomed out.

I didn’t not touch the keys to this vehicle it was just random timing. So confused now.

side note I ordered the rebuild kits for all the valve blocks and will be doing that once I get them in.
 

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The suspension auto-levels itself, so that is normal (obviously the over-sagging isn’t). Be careful not to loose/break the compression fittings inside the valve blocks that hold the hoses from the car when you remove them. Otherwise, you will have to buy them with the nut. Unfortunately the compression fittings do not come with the valve block rebuild kits.

The hoses on the one in the back are tricky to remove.
 

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Alrighty, just saw it do something very strange this morning.

leaving my house early this morning as I was walking to my commuter I hear the range make a noise. I stop and watch it for a bit. It started letting air out on the right side only and I could hear it lower itself but one notch at a time. So it would click, let air out, stop for about 2 seconds and repeat until it was bottomed out.

I didn’t not touch the keys to this vehicle it was just random timing. So confused now.

side note I ordered the rebuild kits for all the valve blocks and will be doing that once I get them in.
It sounds all normal to me with one exception - you said that it bottomed out which is not normal - should just be correcting - do you really mean it went all the way down to the bump stops?

Re changing components - you need to understand how your system works before you start randomly changing components.
 

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Discussion Starter · #36 ·
It sounds all normal to me with one exception - you said that it bottomed out which is not normal - should just be correcting - do you really mean it went all the way down to the bump stops?

Re changing components - you need to understand how your system works before you start randomly changing components.
Correct to the bump stops. I’m not really slapping parts at it. The compressor is the only thing I have changed. My mechanic has swapped the valve blocks and height sensors. Doesn’t seem to solve the issue. It’s weird to me though because I have pulled the relay out and the vehicle still lowers on its own but a slow and steady drop. Not the self leveling that I heard this morning.
 

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Discussion Starter · #37 ·
The suspension auto-levels itself, so that is normal (obviously the over-sagging isn’t). Be careful not to loose/break the compression fittings inside the valve blocks that hold the hoses from the car when you remove them. Otherwise, you will have to buy them with the nut. Unfortunately the compression fittings do not come with the valve block rebuild kits.

The hoses on the one in the back are tricky to remove.
thanks for the heads up. Will keep that in mind.
 

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Yes there are two things going on - regular leveling and the air leak.

Good luck and keep us posted!


Correct to the bump stops. I’m not really slapping parts at it. The compressor is the only thing I have changed. My mechanic has swapped the valve blocks and height sensors. Doesn’t seem to solve the issue. It’s weird to me though because I have pulled the relay out and the vehicle still lowers on its own but a slow and steady drop. Not the self leveling that I heard this morning.
 

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I have the exact same issue with sagging on passenger side front and back (06' HSE). Driver side sits higher. I have replaced all 4 struts with Arnott 1Year ago.

I do get suspension warning error when I start the car up once in a while. I am planning to rebuild valve blocks and compressor. Then do a recalibration with Gap tool. If this did not fix anything then air lines and struts will be next.
 

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I would check the wiring and the harnesses on the height sensors on the right side.
 
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