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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So I bought a pair of Safari 5000 driving lights for my P38. The wiring kit from Land Rover is no longer available and searching ebay etc has not turned up a set. If I wanted to wire these to use with either my high beams or my fog lights is it acceptable to just run the ground wires where convenient and then just splice the power into the appropriate lead? With the high beams I would want the existing high beam stalk to work it, and with the fog lights I would use the existing dash switch. I'm not sure if added load or relays are required or if I'm typically overthinking things. Thanks.
 

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JACK'S GRANDAD
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9,248 Posts
You 100% need relay(s).
You can ground to the frame, then use the high beam power wire to switch the extra lights on.
Sure the wiring isn't there already though?
If it is, just plug them in and have the Becm set to activate them.

Martin
 

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Brush bar lights never had factory wiring. They were always a dealer install item and the add on harness has been out of circulation for years. As martin pointed out you must have a relay. Pull power direct from the battery or the fuse box power stud and run to a relay mounted in front of the battery. From the relay run from the power out tab to under the grill and out to the lights. Ground the relay at any easy bolt or nut around the battery box area. I believe mine are grounded on the radiator support. For the trigger tab on the relay run a wire from your right inner main beam power. You'll have standard dip beams then safari lights with high beam.

Keep in mind that what you are doing is highly illegal and if you flash the gent with the lights on top of his car you will be in a world of hurt. Mine are wired into a separate fog switch on the dash and use the dash/park lights for trigger. This allow use of the safari lights without any headlights. It also ensures that I am always street legal but can still be a butt pucker if someone annoys me.
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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157 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thank you gents. I'll be sure not to flash the men in blue. :naughty:
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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I added a set of LED Spots to my rig. I added a button in the dash, in the existing space where there is a plug to "enable" the spots when I select High Beam with the stalk. I have a used fog light switch I grabbed from the junkyard and wired it to enable the relay that would drive the Safari lights.

Yes you would use a convenient local ground. The power feed should be taken off of high beam power lead if you want them to operate from the stalk you would have to splice it in some how. The power feed from the high beam, should pick a relay that is fed from the battery and of course, fused with an appropriate sized fuse for the power consumption of the Safari lights.

I find it easiest to draw a sketch and follow that when I am wiring up accessories on my rig.
 

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LEGACY VENDOR
1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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4,225 Posts
Interesting about the spots not being able to be as a normal part of the high beams over there...

In the UK, my spots are wired with the factory harness, and come on with the high beams... guess the road laws over here about high beam 'driving lamps' as I believe the DVLA regulations for vehicle lighting is different to the USA!
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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115 Posts
Also go here http://www.bputah.com/ and look under accessories for "LRNASEALH" STC 8480 you'll find more info.

Take a look at the bottom of the page for more threads for your topic there is a very comprehensive thread..
 

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JACK'S GRANDAD
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When I have the spots on, which share the switch with the fog lights, they come on with the high beams, and on low beams the fog lights come on. So button pushed in....low beam = lights under the bumper, high beam = spot lights in front of the grill.
NAS spec rig with factory wiring harness.

Martin
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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I have got Safari 5000 lights on mine and I also fitted the factory harness.
Power to the lights is direct from the battery via an inline fuse to a relay. It picks up a signal from a terminal on one of the headlight bulbs (the RH one I think). Mine picks up on main beam.

A big relay is essential if you are making your own wiring harness up.

I later changed the bulbs to 120 watt rally bulbs, so the lights are pulling around 20 amps. I found the problem is they fog up. I keep meaning to look at newer LED bulbs instead.
 
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