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RRS Grinding Noise

21K views 27 replies 12 participants last post by  matt_06RRSSC 
#1 ·
I have a RRS HSE 2007. within a week of installing my rock sliders from off roving.com i started hearing a grinding noise just after taking my foot off the gas pedal. the noise can be heard between 5-35mph but is loudest when my foot is taken off the gas pedal and the truck begins to slow down on its own.

i'm not sure if it had something to do with the rock slider install or if it was just coincidental. i will say that the truck was sluggish and felt heavy when driving and braking as if it was carrying more weight than it was used to or could handle. that feeling went away after the first week but then the grinding noise began. the noise sounds as if i installed aggressive tread pattern tires.

so i took the truck to the dealership and they said the noise was coming from the rear diff. well they replaced it but the noise was still there on their test drive so they then decided that the front diff was making the noise. i have no clue how they heard the noise in the back and all of a sudden it was actually coming from the front. anyway, they replaced the front diff on friday and monday i'm supposed to find out if the noise went away. the dealership also claims that somehow the diff fluids got contaminated and the rear diff gears were a little grinded up. i havent seen it yet so i cannot say if they're telling the truth or if they're trying to justify the fact that they chose to replace both diffs to land rover north america (it's all under warranty; thank god).

i have a feeling it's the transfer case but we'll see what happens on monday. has anyone had this problem or heard of it before? :doh:
 
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#2 ·
Mark,
Welcome and I'm 99.9% sure nothing to do with rock slider install. Some thoughts.

Re: contamination, if I remember correctly, there was a TSB about incorrectly filled differential oil for a certain VIN range, can't remember if '07's were affected, but most were caught prior to leaving the dealer from what I remember.

In case replacing the other diff does not do the trick here's a few other ideas before pulling the transfer case:

1. A dragging brake shoe because the piston does not retract
2. A bad wheel bearing
3. The electronic parking brake not releasing fully

Since you are putting on rock sliders I assume you might be doing some offroading. Fyi, 1&2 show up more often if you are putting a vehicle through water, esp. if you are going seaside and running through any salt or brackish water.
 
#5 ·
gentlemen,

thank you for the replies. the dealership got back with me today and said that there was a service bulletin that came out about the diff oils being contaminated for my vin. i wonder why they didnt just check that in the first place. this event has led me to the conclusion that it's in my best interest to get a GTR webshop subscription. i will say that i've seen the bulletin for 2006 but didnt realize there was one for 2007. dovers, the noise is loudest upon deceleration but can be heard otherwise.

anyway, they finished stalling the front diff today but couldn't run a test drive because of a few bolts that could only be used one time and must be replaced if they're ever unscrewed (no idea what they're talking about but they had to overnight them to the dealership and will do the final install tomorrow). one would have figured that they would know what parts they would need prior to undertaking such a project. :think:

now i'm concerned about other stuff. if the oil in the diffs was contaminated and the diffs ended up with messed up gears wouldnt it then make sense that other stuff got messed up too?

thanks for the help.
 
#6 ·
ok. this is what i got off the gtr webshop and it looks like my vin starting with 7A would fall into this category:

Models
LM - New Range Rover
LA - Discovery 3
LS - Range Rover Sport

Title Front & Rear Differential Noise & Oil Leaks
Last Modified 03-MAR-2009 12:23
Category: Driveline
Symptom: 509000 Axle Concerns
Content: Front & Rear Differential Noise, Minor Oil Seal Leak & Debris in Oil.

Concern: Noise (Whine or humming) from the front or rear differential. A minor oil leak may be evident with possible debris in oil. Oil will be black in color.

Cause: The casing black paint /sealer degrades, detaches and contaminates the oil.
This results in the oil overheating which results in oil seal leaks and bearing noise.
Note: Differentials from the VINs quoted below are manufactured with a new casing paint which overcomes the above mentioned issues.

Please only raise an EPQR for differential issues which occur post the quoted VIN numbers:

Discovery 3 LR3 - LA8A459201
Range Rover Sport - LS8A141510
Range Rover. LM8A268394
 
#7 ·
mark511 said:
now i'm concerned about other stuff. if the oil in the diffs was contaminated and the diffs ended up with messed up gears wouldnt it then make sense that other stuff got messed up too?

thanks for the help.
Good to hear you (hopefully) have this sorted out. If by "other stuff" you mean excessive wear in the transfer case, transmission, you are OK. The diffs take the beating for everything else--they always do. If you mean could the other oils be contaminated too? No, it was only a diff problem--wrong LS additive, if my memory is correct.
 
#8 ·
ok. picked up the truck today and everything was perfect. no more noise. both differentials were replaced and it was due to the service bulletin about the paint and oil contamination.

thanks for the gents.
 
#15 ·
On the GTR site, but it's a pay-per-view deal... (you can register and browse the list of bulletins and messages for free, but to open up the documents and read the details you need a paid subscription): www.landrovertechinfo.com

Every now and the I subscribe for a week and download / save as many bulletins, pages from the Workshop Manuals, ets., as I can. :lol:
 
#16 ·
umbertob said:
On the GTR site, but it's a pay-per-view deal... (you can register and browse the list of bulletins and messages for free, but to open up the documents and read the details you need a paid subscription): http://www.landrovertechinfo.com

Every now and the I subscribe for a week and download / save as many bulletins, pages from the Workshop Manuals, ets., as I can. :lol:
Many thanks for that. Maybe you should ask for small Forum member donations via paypal and then have a sticky thread constantly updated with all the latest bulletins!
 
#17 ·
umbertob said:
Every now and the I subscribe for a week and download / save as many bulletins, pages from the Workshop Manuals, ets., as I can. :lol:
Because you are the man!

Gazellio said:
Maybe you should ask for small Forum member donations via paypal and then have a sticky thread constantly updated with all the latest bulletins!
Motion to ban.
 
#20 ·
#18 ·
TripleE said:
umbertob said:
Every now and the I subscribe for a week and download / save as many bulletins, pages from the Workshop Manuals, ets., as I can. :lol:
Because you are the man!

Gazellio said:
Maybe you should ask for small Forum member donations via paypal and then have a sticky thread constantly updated with all the latest bulletins!
Motion to ban.
Oops better get back to MK111 Forum sharpish :hand:
 
#21 ·
Front differential failure is what sounds like happened to me last night. I got home without the differential causing a complete lock-up, however - it probably helped that it was single digits outside last night as well.

Several people have had their front wheels lock completely up due to this problem. My RRS has only 50K miles. There is no way that a front differential should fail (sounds like it is due to poor painting of the inner differential housing, which delaminates and contaminates the fluid, causing failure) @ 50K miles, much less be a threat to lock up the wheels, possibly killing someone.

Why isn't LRNA or UK covering the complete cost of replacing these? This is obviously a manufacturer's defect, and a severe one, at that.
 
#22 ·
hi all

I am from the UK and have a 2006 Range Rover Sport with the VIN number that start like this: SALLSAA136 etc

Gave the car to the dealers for a full service, and when they gave me a report back, it stated that there was slight oil leak from the front diff. Now this the problem i have experienced, when you drive say above 40 and take your foot of the gas pedal , there is a humming / grinding noise and if you put the car into Neutral the noise goes away and then when back in "D" the noise comes back. Now i think this is exactly what marc has experienced at the start of the thread, problem is only when decelerating and if you step on the gas pedal, the noise is not there.

If i were to have the oil changed in the front diff , will the noise go away ?? or is there something else involved when changing the fluid, it could be there is little oil, contaminated ??? Any help would be appreciated, thanks all.
 
#23 ·
You can try changing the oil. But to be honest it sure sounds like the diff is going and an oil change may not bring it back. It wouldn't be the worst thing to be out the cost of a 1.5 qt of oil and a change on the small chance it helps.
 
#24 ·
I recently bought a 2006 RRS SC. It has approximately 75,000 miles. Soon after I purchased it I began hearing a groaning/humming sound from the rear (or seems to be coming from the rear). The groaning/humming starts around 30mph and continues regardless of speed, but it seems to diminish some after about 60/65mph. I suspected the tires or wheel bearing at first, but the tires are relatively new (I didn't put them on) and the sound does not change when making turns at any speed, which makes me think it's not a wheel bearing. Is there a way to do something to see if it is the rear differential (something I can do while driving or through inspection)? Any thoughts or ideas are welcome. It's likely this will be my first costly repair. Oh well. It's 11 years old. :)

-Matt
 
#25 ·
Check the temp of your rear rims. If hot it could be E-brake or a stuck caliper. Just went through this on son-in-laws LR3. Turned out to be caliper.
 
#26 ·
Mine is not a grinding noise per se. It's more of a hum. A loud hum. It may be my tires. I have not had mine checked at a dealership yet. When I do, I'll post an update to let you know what I find out.

Mine doesn't stop when letting off the gas. It continues even when putting it in neutral (I've done it a few times as I approach a red light while at speeds where it's making the sound). It doesn't change when I put on the brakes, and it gets quieter as I slow down until I can't hear it at all (usually below 25/30mph).
 
#27 ·
So as it turns out, my hum is coming from the rear differential. I was quoted $3,500 for the part alone. It's not to the point where it needs replacing immediately, but will definitely need replacing in the coming months (probably summer/fall time frame). I'm trying to figure out if mine has the lock or not (I'm pretty sure it does) and if it can be replaced with a non-locking rear differential. It probably does.
 
#28 ·
So as it turns out, my hum is coming from the rear differential. I was quoted $3,500 for the part alone.
Let me add that the price quoted was at a garage that specializes in Land Rover Range Rover repairs. For giggles, I stopped at the local Land Rover dealership to get a price. Parts alone:

LR032711 MOTOR - REAR DI $829.99 + $200 core charge
LR041063 HOUSING-DIFFERE $555.99
LR059435 DIFFERENTIAL $6032.99 + $700 core charge
TYP500130 SCREW $23.96

Total before tax: $7442.93

Nope! Not paying that much money for a 2006. If that other garage is accurate with their $3,500 figure plus labor, I may consider it.
 

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