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RRC 1996 300TDI Manual
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Discussion Starter #1
Hi All,

I'm new in the forum. I have bought a 1996 RRC 300TDI with manual gearbox.

I have already took it to the mechanic due to a leaky Steer box and I had it refurbished, and now drives like a new car, because I prefer to rely on the mechanics of the car I had a full oil revision on engine, gearbox and differentials, new brake pads and a cooling system flush... the previous owner used water instead of anti coolant...

Now I'm turning into other issues, and I might need some opinions and some experience share.

My interior lights are just shoot all yellow due to the age
288152
I'm thinking of buying new lens and put some led lights. If someone have done the same can you share your experience and also part numbers?

I also have issues with my driving lights not working. I don't know where to start. to see if I can troubleshoot the issue. How to check the switch and the rest of the connections , or what co be the main candidate to be the reason.

Other issue is that the rear wiper is not working. the water spray is working but not the wiper, again I don't know where to start...

Later I will share many other questions, because I'm going to need some feedback and guidance for sure.

All Help is appreciated.

Best regards,

Alex
 

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1989 Range Rover Classic
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223 Posts
The interior lenses are cheap and easy to find (see ebay link). Mine looked just like yours, easy replacement, although I replaced the bulbs with standard ones rather than LED's (was concerned about flickering).

Interior Dome Map Courtesy Light Lens for Range Rover Classic 87-95 PRC1634 New | eBay

Do any of the driving lights work? Does the dash illuminate or only when the headlights are on?

Also 1995 is generally considered the last year of the classic, was the '95 soft dash sold as a '96 model year in the UK?
 

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1970-1995 Range Rover Classic
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61 Posts
Hello!
Assuming the interior lights of the soft dash are the same as the previous had dash...

Inner light lens: Lens - Paddock Spares
Inner light bulb should be this one: LED Festoon Bulb - Paddock Spares (check the correct lenght)

I fitted new lights and cheap Chinese LED bulbs and, while I?m satisfied with the overall amount of light, I have the complaint that it's not uniform: there are blue spots in the lighting pattern that make it not perfect. I don't mind it enough to change them to better ones, but this can be a warning not to use cheap bulbs if you care a lot about the quality of your light.

In case your light doesn't come on reliably, as mine did... I solved with new switches Switch - Paddock Spares
 

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I thought the 96 was a p38
 

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RRC 1996 300TDI Manual
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Discussion Starter #6
Hello!
Assuming the interior lights of the soft dash are the same as the previous had dash...

Inner light lens: Lens - Paddock Spares
Inner light bulb should be this one: LED Festoon Bulb - Paddock Spares (check the correct lenght)

I fitted new lights and cheap Chinese LED bulbs and, while I?m satisfied with the overall amount of light, I have the complaint that it's not uniform: there are blue spots in the lighting pattern that make it not perfect. I don't mind it enough to change them to better ones, but this can be a warning not to use cheap bulbs if you care a lot about the quality of your light.

In case your light doesn't come on reliably, as mine did... I solved with new switches Switch - Paddock Spares
Hi Tex,

Thanks for your reply, I'm going to check about the the sort of led I should fit, I'm looking for a warm white instead of the White "Blueish" light
 

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Hi Mikieman,

In certain markets the RRC was being on the market up to 1996.
then those people were in a lucky market...
Awsome and cool
 
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1970-1995 Range Rover Classic
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For the interior dome lights I'm reasonably happy with the Philips 38mm festoon XtremeVision LED. I wish the pattern was a little more diffused compared to the really intense bright middle. Overall color and brightness are good while drawing very little power and there is no flickering or other issue with them in my truck.

For the rear wiper I would start with fuses since that is probably the easiest to check and then jump straight to the motor. If you remove the rear ceiling speakers and drop the back edge of the headliner a bit you can get to the wires. I would make sure they have power. There are two +12v and a ground. One of the +12v is tied to the switch in the dash and the other is constant to return the wiper to the parked position when you turn it off. If power to the motor is working correctly, then the motor is bad. If power to the motor is not working correctly then I would trace it forward from there. The Electrical Troubleshooting Manual has diagrams showing the fuses, relays, switch, motor, and Multi Function Unit and a step by step procedure to check the power and the relevant pins.
 
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Hi Tex,

Thanks for your reply, I'm going to check about the the sort of led I should fit, I'm looking for a warm white instead of the White "Blueish" light
I've used led festoon in mine, they are a bit blue and more directional than originally fitted.

The ones above are blue (rated at 6000k) this is kelvin scale with daylight being approximately 5000k at midday and higher numbers than that being more blue, conversely 3400k is around conventional tungsten filament output that we would recognize as "bright warm white".
Don't know if you'd get led rated as such but as they run cool you could paint the envelope with nail varnish of pale yellow or orange to correct the colour output to your desired part of the spectrum.

If you wish to give more even coverage rather than see the led patches, paint also, just "mist" the inside of the lens with matt white spray paint which will give you a more diffuse light output. This is more or less the same effect as they are manufactured in for domestic led light bulbs.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I've used led festoon in mine, they are a bit blue and more directional than originally fitted.

The ones above are blue (rated at 6000k) this is kelvin scale with daylight being approximately 5000k at midday and higher numbers than that being more blue, conversely 3400k is around conventional tungsten filament output that we would recognize as "bright warm white".
Don't know if you'd get led rated as such but as they run cool you could paint the envelope with nail varnish of pale yellow or orange to correct the colour output to your desired part of the spectrum.

If you wish to give more even coverage rather than see the led patches, paint also, just "mist" the inside of the lens with matt white spray paint which will give you a more diffuse light output. This is more or less the same effect as they are manufactured in for domestic led light bulbs.
Good to know your insight, I need to dive a little bit on what is available on the market. Or outside of the box ideas. I might first go for the ones you shared and start from there. on this issue is more to experiment than to read theory...
 

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Discussion Starter #11
For the interior dome lights I'm reasonably happy with the Philips 38mm festoon XtremeVision LED. I wish the pattern was a little more diffused compared to the really intense bright middle. Overall color and brightness are good while drawing very little power and there is no flickering or other issue with them in my truck.

For the rear wiper I would start with fuses since that is probably the easiest to check and then jump straight to the motor. If you remove the rear ceiling speakers and drop the back edge of the headliner a bit you can get to the wires. I would make sure they have power. There are two +12v and a ground. One of the +12v is tied to the switch in the dash and the other is constant to return the wiper to the parked position when you turn it off. If power to the motor is working correctly, then the motor is bad. If power to the motor is not working correctly then I would trace it forward from there. The Electrical Troubleshooting Manual has diagrams showing the fuses, relays, switch, motor, and Multi Function Unit and a step by step procedure to check the power and the relevant pins.
Hi Richard55, thank you for your share, regarding the interior light I think that I might need to try one or to models and maybe some tweaks to to match my expectation, going to look after the Philips you are mentioning.

About the wiper your quick description is going to be very helpful I have done a fuse check when I bought the truck and all where looking good without break circuits or grime on the contacts, I didn't have a clue about where and how to reach the wiper without breaking something. I'm going to sort it on the next weekend.

Do you know where can I find the Electrical Troubleshooting Manual? I have other gizmos that I need to sort like the driving lights not working as well.
 

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1989 Range Rover Classic
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Also worth checking for the rear wiper motor is the ground. Classic's are notorious for weak grounds, so often a dirty or corroded ground wire can be your problem. My sunroof wasn't working when I bought mine, only had about 2.5V at the motor when the switch was pressed. Traced the ground wire, pulled it and cleaned the contacts, and voila, 12V! Worth taking a quick peek at.
 

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RRC 1996 300TDI Manual
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Discussion Starter #13
Also worth checking for the rear wiper motor is the ground. Classic's are notorious for weak grounds, so often a dirty or corroded ground wire can be your problem. My sunroof wasn't working when I bought mine, only had about 2.5V at the motor when the switch was pressed. Traced the ground wire, pulled it and cleaned the contacts, and voila, 12V! Worth taking a quick peek at.
Let's see if I can figure out what is the culprit... hopefully just a bad connection.
 

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1970-1995 Range Rover Classic
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About the wiper your quick description is going to be very helpful I have done a fuse check when I bought the truck and all where looking good without break circuits or gri

Do you know where can I find the Electrical Troubleshooting Manual? I have other gizmos that I need to sort like the driving lights not working as well.
Unfortunately I didn’t take any pictures when I replaced my motor, but I don’t remember it being hard to get to the wires. Once you remove the speakers, the back edge of the headliner is just supported by a metal flange.

If you do a Google search for “Range Rover Classic Electrical Troubleshooting Manual”, several sites have PDFs of it posted. Sometimes you can also find the actual book available used on eBay.
 
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Discussion Starter #15
Unfortunately I didn’t take any pictures when I replaced my motor, but I don’t remember it being hard to get to the wires. Once you remove the speakers, the back edge of the headliner is just supported by a metal flange.

If you do a Google search for “Range Rover Classic Electrical Troubleshooting Manual”, several sites have PDFs of it posted. Sometimes you can also find the actual book available used on eBay.
Regarding the Range Rover Classic Electrical Troubleshooting Manual I already sorted it, thanks.
About the motor and connections I'm going to see if I'm able to sort it during the weekend. I have read that sometimes the issue is on the ground connection, do you know where is it located?
 
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