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Discussion Starter #1
Bought a Range Rover 2010 facelift but won’t start
ignition is ok ...
when press ignition car cranks ( bit slow )...
turnining over the engine ...
fuel pressure is ok ......
no lights illuminate on the dashboard.....
diagnostic computer shows no fault .....
sometines show on computer random faults and no communication with the engine ....

we couldn’t find it out what the real fault is, my mechanic checked and firstly suspected it’s injectors not giving fuel ,changed one side 3 injectors but still no start ,now he suspects it could be engine gone and asking for engine rebuild or replace ,I can’t believe that it’s engine gone.
 

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Check your battery CCA (Cold Cranking Amps).

After that, check your alternator output.
 

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My post from this morning is not showing. RJ just pointed at two items on my basics list. Battery and Alternator. Of course both can be brand new and if you have dirty cables or a cable failing due to too much resistance nothing is going crank the engine fast enough to fire.

Now as far as thinking this was all cause by bad injectors... why did they not test them? Fuel pressure is "ok"? Did they actually test the pressure or just see if there was fuel at the rail. Lack of fuel, dirty injectors etc have nothing to do with slow cranking. Slow cranking/low voltage is a sign of other issues.

There is nothing above that even remotely suggests the engine is "gone". Any mechanic jumping from a slow crank to rebuilding or replacing the engine has not done his basic homework. At a minimum they need to do a compression check after resolving the slow crank. Chances are the battery is a one time replacement and just plain getting old or has a weak cell. Most shops do not clean BOTH ends of cables when replacing a battery. so your fuse box, alternator, starter and ground points can all be suspect for corrosion or loose connections.
 

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Check the fuse between the ECU and coils, mine was not blown but the contacts inside the fuse box had worn and the fuse was not making a connection. I chased this issue for months until i pulled the fuse to check it and thought it was a bit loose, I added some solder to the fuse pins and 12 months later the problem has never come back. I forget which number fuse it is but in the fuse box diagram it has an icon that looks like a coil of wire. I believe it's #6 and is 15 amps.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Update - it was a broken camshaft chain and timing was out , had to get the engine rebuilt
 
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