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2002-2005 Range Rover MkIII / L322
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Long time lurker, second time poster `8)

I've done a fair bit of searching on this, and am now just confusing myself, so thought I'd open a thread and get some advice on the exact issue. If I've missed something in my searching that's the same issue, my apologies, and please do direct me there. Unfortunately the threads I have found on the interwebs describing this exact issue (a couple of them) don't have resolution info. Please excuse the novel that follows...

Anyway, '03 TD6 RR Vogue, 185K kms, of which I've put 22K on, around 18K of that under decent load (towing ~2.5t long distances). Has an ECU chip. Nothing in the service book of any note, but OK ish SH except a gap at 45K to 110K (and now me...). Don't know about the front diff, still chasing that up to see if has been replaced. Suspect not.

Vehicle ran as smooth as anything when I got it, in an I-cant-believe-its-not-a-SC-V8 way and hasn't missed a beat until recently. Shifting, accelerating, braking, all perfect, even when towing over nasty grade hills in 30+C heat with aircon pumping. Did not leak a drop of any fluid (much to every mechanic's disbelief). Now it's winter here, and very cold, but also off season, so truck gets all it's TLC done over this time. Just had its first service under my tenure (I know, not good enough :naughty:, but it is what it is, because life). However, I did notice in about late February that the fuel consumption when towing had got worse, maybe 5%? Slight possibility I was imagining it, but now I'm pretty sure I'm not. Was also a noticeable hang to the left, but off front tyre was terrible. Got new tyres and alignment and much better, maybe even fixed (I still thought there was a tiny bit of hang left, but got talked out of it because road camber. Hmmm :neutral:). Fuel econ did not improve after new tyres. Decided was imagining things.

But - sometime in late May, about 5 weeks before service date it developed a tiny little black oil leak (around 1cm diameter spot in 24hrs, located under front diff - maybe, assuming I have the right bit - couldn't find source myself though, as am useless), began running rough and also a shudder. Not sure if related, but all happened at more or less the same time, if pressed I'd say rough first, noticed leak a week later, shudder a week after that. FWIW this coincided with winter. The weather has turned really cold about now, and the RR lives outside (who builds garages that are too low for FFRR'S????) and it's been a bit rough on startup last 5 or so weeks, with some white smoke. Like noticeably white smoke. Previously had not had any smoke, except for a tiny puff when the foot went down firmly while towing big loads, never on start - always smooth startup.

Startup became rough enough to cause a bit of a shake (in park), which dissipated but never really goes away unless about 20 seconds of revs (about 1200 rpm I guess?) or until the vehicle has traveled about 100m. I usually give it around 2min running at idle or very low revs before moving off. It moves off ok, but maybe a little sluggish in pickup. The truck also sounds 'throatier' under moderate to high acceleration. It used to be very smooth and very quiet.

The big thing is after about 10km, I get to the open road, and it starts out feeling like a slightly corrugated road surface (this is around 90-100 km/hr under acceleration). This isn't constant, if I vary the speed it comes and goes, without a particularly easy to identify pattern. Then a shudder will appear on full deceleration (ie total lift from anything over about 60 km/hr), goes away with acceleration, but becomes a bigger shudder just before halting. (so at 10-0 km/hr). The shuddering keeps going while stopped and in Drive until I press very firmly on the brake, and reappears if I lighten the brake. Put it in Park and foot off brake, the shudder goes back to a very light vibration, the same as the startup one. It's not noticeable unless you're in the vehicle or watching *very* closely from outside. Even then, it's actually a bit less 'rattly' than an older diesel vehicle (you know the ones with the diesel 'knock'?) - and better than most of them! However one day it got bad at around 80km and shook (probably visibly) regardless of acceleration or deceleration. I babysat it the 15km back home, and it came right in the last 2km after a short run through town at 50km/hr. Hasn't been anywhere near that bad before or since. No check lights on or warnings at any time.

Anyway, serviced today. Haven't got the job sheet back yet, but asked for all fluids and filters to be done, plus timing. Truck is at least halfway better, but definitely not fixed. Smoother, shudder much reduced, less than half the smoke on startup. But still definitely not the truck it was 6 months ago. Mechanic reported two issues - had to top up front diff oil, and tiny leak from turbo (sorry, didn't ask if intake or outlet). Don't think plugs or coils/injectors were changed (and I'm assuming it has all of those? This is how little I know sorry). I live half a day from the nearest dealer (who are apparently useless) and 8 hours drive from the nearest independent specialist. I really need to cultivate and support my local mechanic, who have always been good, and are happy to deal with the Rangie, with a minimum of teasing me about it's foibles.

What it feels like... well, I'm about as far from a mechanic as it's possible to be, so please bear with me. The shudder is felt through the vehicle body, not the steering wheel - but it does really feel like it's coming from the engine, and the shudder matches that roughness that's still there. Even the bigger shudder when it's warmed up and stops at traffic lights still matches the engine, which I never even used to hear. It's not misfiring, but it does sound and feel to me (a complete amateur) that it's not firing in an even sequence if that makes sense? However since servicing, it's definitely gone from at a halt in Drive, shaking like a dog halfheartedly trying to shake itself dry, to a dog that's just a tiny little bit cold and shivery. The shudder is felt through the brake pedal as well as the body though.

Braking is fine, no juddering from wheels, and wheels don't feel out of balance at all. It really does feel and sound like engine. Trans still seems very smooth. Maaaaaaaybe it's hunting a tiny bit? I think not, I'm just noticing it shifting because I'm obsessed with how its running now. But shifts are still very smooth - no noise or clunking. And yes, I'm also obsessed with the trans, I've read the stories about these ones 8~

Again, sorry for the novel, I wanted to give as much info as possible though. Taking it back to the mechanic later this week for more investigations (will ask if is throwing any codes) and I suspect another go at timing, anything I should ask them to take a particular look at? Starting from easy to test and working up to parting it out! :shock:
 

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2002-2005 Range Rover MkIII / L322
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Discussion Starter #2
For anyone searching, fault found, it was the #2 cylinder injector. Replaced that and all is well again. FWIW the mechanic was shocked to find the injector was the cheapest he'd come across for that type of vehicle (cue dark looks at the Landcruisers in his yard, especially the one that had $20k of engine rebuilding). We'd been expecting to pay a premium, but for once - bargain.
 

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For anyone searching, fault found, it was the #2 cylinder injector. Replaced that and all is well again. FWIW the mechanic was shocked to find the injector was the cheapest he'd come across for that type of vehicle (cue dark looks at the Landcruisers in his yard, especially the one that had $20k of engine rebuilding). We'd been expecting to pay a premium, but for once - bargain.
Thanks for the update. We had one entire side of injectors replaced right after buying ours used. I think the previous owner used poor quality gasoline since the problem developed at only 64k miles. Now I'm using BG 44K (twice in the first month since replacing the one side of injectors in case the other side was gummed up as well) and will continue to use it every 6 months. Hopefully the problem won't recur!



2012 Range Rover HSE Lux 5.0L V8 Santorini Black 65k miles

<a href="http://www.fuelly.com/car/land_rover/range_rover/2012/runninsmooth/622978" target="_blank"><img src="http://badges.fuelly.com/images/sig-us/622978.png" width="500" height="63" alt="Fuelly" title="Share and compare MPG at Fuelly" border="0"/></a>
 

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Not poor quality gas... Poor quality injectors... Mixed with it appears very specific additive blends in fuel...

Search "RRS injectors"...

Something is wrong with the Bosch parts and LR isn't saying...

(When you "dealership" tell a fuel producer "refinery" "......you must be using cheap gas or bad gas.....". Wrong thing to say.

If there is one place that can call bs it's them, Dealer didn't release bad injectors for chemical analysis at labs (unless we paid core deposit of $300 - retail for unit on ab/Rover parts = $150 each)

Anyway .... Do the search... Bosch and LR have some issues not only injector Dept.



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A diesel injector has a lot more to do than one for gasoline. Would be interested to know if the faulty injector told the computer to stop firing fuel or it was damaged and could not fire fuel or it was leaking fuel. We had a misfire on our gas engine due to a faulty coil which made the engine buck badly under load and you could swear the tranny was kicking badly which it might have been. A sure recipe for disaster to either engine or trans. Have not found if fuel can be cut off to injector if the coil misfires but our fuel consumption per screen seems to have increased. I had just done the plugs which were a bit whitish. Curious if anyone could report on plug colour they found on replacement. Not sure if the light brown of older carbureted engines still is valid in todays gasoline engines .
 
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