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RR-91 ABS Problem

30563 Views 16 Replies 10 Participants Last post by  gunnarL322
Hello

I hope you excuse my bad english.

I have a big problem with my Range Rover 91. The ABS light is on the whole time and the abs don´t work. I run the abs selfdiagnostic and get the code 2-6: Faulty stoplight switch or wiring. Fuse A5 blown or not fitted.

The fuse is tested and it´s ok. I bought a new stoplight switch (lucas) but that did´nt help eather.

So I hope that anyone here can help me with things to check. My first thaught was to follow all cabels and test them but that was hopeless. Anyone here that knows where each cabel goes? So I can test all cabels fore damages, and just try to make a testcabel between connectors.

I am thankfull for all tips that can help me in my faultfinding.
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Unfortunately I never worked on the abs, mine doesnt work and I like it better that way. I think ABS is for old people and people who cant drive.

You are on the right track, check the abs unit, maybe it is not getting the signal for the brake lights. You will need a decent digital multimieter, make sure you have your 12V come and go when brakes are applied somewhere here there are directions to download the RAVE manual, it is the bible for the range rovers. Search it out and download it, the electrical section will tell you what color wire and where to look. I wouldn't bother without a meter, it's useless to troubleshoot electrical without it
Well.. I could live without the abs to... but the MOT here in sweden requaers that it should work. So I nead it working to be able to drive the range :(

I have a RAVE manual somewhere but I have a memorey that it was to new... but will try to find it again offcause. RAVE is a great bible... I hade it for my erlier P38 and sadly... I have lots of use of rave.

I have a multimieter but the problem was that I could´nt messure if the signal (12v) even get to the ecu unit... because I did´nt know what pin it should go in to.
pull the abs fuse so the light goes out, should have no problems. drive carefull
Thats just the problem... They did´nt like that it was off. It should go on at first and then of when you drive away. So it´s not so easy :wink:
And the second thing, after it pass the mot I´m going to sell her so I want it to work...
You need the correct technical information for your model. RAVE is for the 94/95 model, some stuff will be the same but most will be different. Atlantic British sell a CD covering all RRC technical manuals. The correct one for your year should be in there, this should give you wiring diagrams, ECU pin outs, etc.
Hi
Hope this helps! I had a ABS fault on my 1996 Discovery,i spent alot of time checking/adjusting and then replacing the wheel bearings but to no avale,i then took it to a local garage to try to get a fault code/advise but there code reader would not read it so i was looking at a trip to the main agents and a large bill to read the ECU and then get it repaired,when as part of my day to day job i meet an ex-land rover tech who i got chatting with and i ran my problem by him,and he told me to check the sensors where fully home on the axles as this was a problem on some discos,so i checked mine and all where ok except the front drivers side which moved in about 1mm,i gave it a quick road test the light went out and has not come on since(about 3mths now).
Hope this helps as the RRC and Disco run the same running gear! well its worth a look.
All the best Valveboy
1996 Discovery ES
1993 RRC LSE 4.2
1988 RRC Vogue 3.5 EFI
Thanks for that valveboy. Have got tips from other pepole too that I could check the sensors... so I guess that this will be my next projekt... but offcause I will be glad for more tips. It´s not fun to meching with the sensors... they are wery expencive if broke...
Micke,i had last summer same fault.I was lucky to found corroded connector of brakeswitch :) First i reset the abs system and after week i took connector off and sprayed with contact cleaner.No problems after that.

Rgds:Jukka
-92 RR Westminster 4.6
-73 Rover P6 3500Si
Checked the sensors at the front axel... it seams like they are the problem. After cleaning and adjusting I get 0.5v from it so I looks like they are the problem... and the selfdiagnostic that did´nt find that problem. Hope fore the best that there is no more fault.
Last time I replaced my brake switch, the light stayed on too. I realized my problem was that I forgot to reset the ABS light. After you install the new part, be sure to remove the jumper lead from the plug while the codes are flashing to reset.
When you read the abs codes by jumpering the "black/pink" and "black" wires, you have to first clear all the codes by pulling out the jumper wire as the abs code is flashing, since you most likely have more than one error code stored in the computer.

After all the codes are cleared, then you have to drive the Rover again to make the abs light come on. Jumper the wires one more time and read the code. That code will be the error you have to fix.
How do you check the ABS codes if you have no readout LED? Can you buy a specific reader?

:pray:
Below are instructions on how to retreive ABS fault codes for RRC.

Under the RRC's front driver seat in the front is a blue connector used to connect the ABS testbook equipment.

1. Fabricate a jumper wire with 12 gauge wire about inch long

2. Connect jumper wire to the "black" and "black/pink" pins. Turn ignition to position 2.

3. Five seconds after the ignition is turned to position 2 the Anti-Lock warning light will extinguish, indicating the start of the cycle.

4. Observe the Anti-Lock warning light, the start phase of the blink code is signified by the following:

- Pause = 2.5 secs. (long)
- Flash = 2.5 secs. (long)
- Pause = 2.5 secs. (long)
- Flash = 0.5 secs. (short)

5. The first part of the code number is determined by a pause of 2.5 secs. which precedes a series of short flashes then a long pause. The number of short flashes is equal to the first digit in the fault code.

6. The second digit in the code number is determined after a pause of 2.5 secs. which occurs between the first and second code flashes. After the pause there will be a number of short flashes, the number of flashes is equal to the second digit in the fault code. After the flashes there will be another pause of 2.5 seconds before the system repeats the flash and pause sequence. This will allow for a verification of the code or if the initial flash and pause sequence was missed.

7. The sequence of the start phase, first and second code parts will continue until terminated by the operator. To terminate the code sequence disconnect the jumper wire.

NOTE:Termination will clear the memory of that particular fault, and the fault will not be retrievable. Do not terminate the sequence if unsure of the code number.

8. The memory is capable of storing more than one fault. To search the memory, after the jumper wire is disconnected wait until the Anti-Lock light illuminates and then turn the ignition off, the code is now completely cleared. To obtain the next code repeat the procedure from step 2.

9. If there are no faults remaining there will be a long pause of 7.5 secs. after the start phase.

10. Once all the codes have been obtained and cleared, locate the problem cause and rectification for each code and fix accordingly.


FAULT CODE LIST

KEY: IV - Inlet Valve, OV - Outlet Value, RCP - Recirculation pump (ABS pump)

Sensor check:

1. Carry out multimeter test, check electrical resistance of sensor, this should be 700-2000 ohms. Check sensor voltage output, this should be greater than or equal to 0.93 VAC RMS when rotating the wheel at 1 rev/sec.

2. Check sensor air gap. Push sensor through bush until it touches exciter ring. Sensor will be knocked back to correct position when the vehicle is driven.

3. Check run out of the exciter ring and rectify if necessary.

4. Check bearing play and adjust if necessary.

5. Check sensor bush and exchange if necessary.



*********************

The Codes:
Code 2-6 - Faulty stoplight switch or wiring. Fuse A5 blown or not fitted
Code 2-7 - Continuous supply to ECU with ignition off. Faulty valve relay or wiring Code 2-8 - No voltage to ABS solenoid valves. Faulty valve relay or wiring.
Code 2-12 - Front right, too large an air gap or the sensor has been forced out by exciter ring.
Code 2-13 - Rear left, too large an air gap or the sensor has been forced out by exciter ring.
Code 2-14 - Front left, too large an air gap or the sensor has been forced out by exciter ring.
Code 2-15 - Rear right, too large an air gap or the sensor has been forced out by exciter ring.
Code 3-0 to 3-9 - Open circuit in connection from ECU to solenoid valve in booster, or in ECU
Code 4-0 to 4-9 - Short circuit to earth in connection from ECU to solenoid valve in booster
Code 4-12 - Front right, wiring to sensor broken or sensor resistance too high.
Code 4-13 - Rear left, wiring to sensor broken or sensor resistance too high.
Code 4-14 - Front left, wiring to sensor broken or sensor resistance too high. Code 4-15 - Rear right, wiring to sensor broken or sensor resistance too high.
Code 5-0 to 5-9 - Short circuit to 12volt in connection from ECU to solenoid valve in booster, possible earth fault.Code 5-12 - Front right, intermittent fault with sensor or wiring
Code 5-13 - Rear left, intermittent fault with sensor or wiring
Code 5-14 - Front left, intermittent fault with sensor or wiring
Code 5-15 - Rear right, intermittent fault with sensor or wiring
Code 6-0 to 6-9 - Short circuit between two connection from ECU to solenoid valve in booster.
Code 6-12 - Front right, no output from sensor, sensor may have too large an air gap.
Code 6-13 - Rear left, no output from sensor, sensor may have too large an air gap.
Code 6-14 - Front left, no output from sensor, sensor may have too large an air gap.
Code 6-15 - Rear right, no output from sensor, sensor may have too large an air gap.
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May I add one piece of advice: clear all of the fault codes first, then take the vehicle for a drive, re-check and see what fault code(s) has been logged. Once one code is recorded, these things have a nasty habit of throwing up subsequent codes, over a period of time, most of which are red herrings and will lead you on a merry dance if you try to rectify all of them (ask me how I know!!).
Also, when you return from your drive, it's easy to tell if any codes have been logged: shut the engine down, turn off the key, then turn on the ignition whilst watching the ABS lamp. If it flashes once then stays on (until you reach 5mph) the fault code memory is clear. If it just comes on constant until you drive, a code has been logged.
Hope that helps,
Regards
Pete.
RAVE says you need to pull the ABS lamp relay before carrying out the code flashing.
I forgot that today when trying, but rechecking the manual I found I missed step 3 in the procedure. So hopefully I will see some flashing tomorrow.

One of my family members recently came up with a way to OCR (character recognition) process the Range Rover Classic RAVE manual, with splendid result, and I am copying the text from there as straight from the horses mouth piece of data. It should be very similar to what was stated in the previous post but is useful as reference.

FAULT DIAGNOSIS PROCEDURE
If diagnostic equipment is not available the
following procedure can be carried out using the
'Blink Code' and a multi-meter. Faults are stored in
the ECU memory in code form. The information can
be retrieved by initiating and reading a series of
flash and pause sequences on the ABS warning
light.
Use of the blink code will determine the location of
the fault prior to carrying out a multi-meter check,
thus reducing multi-meter checking time.
Additionally the blink code can be used exclusively
where a fault has occurred, and no other diagnostic
equipment is available.


Recommended equipment

A female plug to fit the diagnostic plug, prewired

to connect ECU pin 14 to earth by bridging the
black/pink and black diagnostic plug wires.
To initiate the blink code carry out the following
procedure:

1. Switch off ignition.


2. Remove the seat side trim to gain access to

the ECU and relays, and on early vehicles the
diagnostic plug. Unclip the access plate from
the seat base front trim panel. Pull the blue
diagnistic plug from its clip through the
opening. Note that the diagnostic plug and
fuse condition on early vehicles is shown in
RR2742M.


3. Remove the ABS warning light relay.


4. Switch on ignition, ASS warning light will illuminate.


5. Connect the prewired plug to the diagnostic plug.


6. Five seconds after connecting diagnostic plug the ABS warning light will extinguish, indicating the start of the blink code cycle.


7. Start phase: Observe the ABS warning light, the start phase consists of:
Pause - 2.5 secs (long)
Flash - 2.5 secs (long)
Pause - 2.5 secs (long)
Flash - 0.5 secs (short)


8. First part of code number: A pause of 2,5
secs precedes a series of short flashes. Count
the flashes until the next long pause occurs,
the number obtained is the first part of the
code number.


9. Second part of code number: A pause of 2.5
secs occurs between first and second parts,
before a second series of short flashes occurs.
The number of flashes forms the second part
of the code number.


10. The sequence of start phase, first and second
parts will continue until terminated by the
operator, thus allowing the code obtained to
be rechecked.


11. To terminate the sequence disconnect the
prewired plug from the diagnostic plug. Wait
for cycle to end before code will clear.
NOTE: Termination will clear the memory of
that particular fault. Do not terminate the
sequence if unsure of the code number.


12. The memory is capable of storing more than
one fault. To search the memory, reconnect
the diagnostic plug, and await the next start
phase.


13. Repeat procedure until no further faults are
stored in the memory. The memory is cleared
when a long pause of 7.5 secs occurs after
start phase.


WARNING: Be sure to reconnect the relay
after completing test.
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4. Switch on ignition, ASS warning light will illuminate.

OCR flaw, any occurrance of ASS shall be ABS:
4. Switch on ignition, ABS warning light will illuminate.
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